racer08
Premium Member
- Model Number
- KDTE234GPS0
- Brand
- KitchenAid
- Age
- 1-5 years
Hello, I have been lurking on here for the past week or so trying to diagnose a problem with our 1.5 yr old KitchenAid KDTE234GPS0.
It has run flawlessly until the recently when it began tripping the circuit breaker after a good hour or two into the cycle. I've tried express, normal and prowash cycle settings. I've tried with and without the heated dry function. All fail.
After reading here about the diagnostic mode, I tried it, and originally and was getting a 2-1 error code for the control panel. All lights and buttons on the control panel work. I've taken out the control board. I metered the triac fuses and both passed (2.7 ohms). I do not see any hot spots on circuit board, panel or wiring. I removed the junction box and inspected the wires from the house, the wires from the dishwasher and the connections. Nothing discolored, burned, etc. Wire nuts were tight and no nicks or exposed wires showing.
When the circuit trips there is water in the bottom of the tub. I thought that perhaps it was actually the drain pump. I've removed it twice looking for debris and it is fine. I've started the diagnostic cycle with the pump detached and it energized when I closed the door. I can also hear and see water draining to the sink during the when it's running. This weekend I thought maybe it was a clogged drain hose. Tried blowing though and couldn't. Started taking things apart and thought that perhaps I had a bad check valve (allowing water to re-enter the tub) as my wife had washed some spice jars and the labels disintegrated. Didn't find any major obstructions and could blow through each hose before reassembling.
I thought it was perhaps our dual-function circuit breaker with GFCI/AFCI went bad from being tripped multiple times. I swapped it with an identical breaker in the box. Dishwasher is still tripping breaker and the old one is doing fine in it's new location.
I haven't yet ohmed out the heating element. Perhaps it has a pinhole crack somewhere that is grounding out with the water in the bottom of the tub? When I run the diagnostic cycle I'm now getting a 6-4 error code (float switch is fine, I mentioned my drain tubing and triac fuses above). The 2-1 error code is gone.
Suggestions on where to look or what to try next? I'm this close to calling and having a professional look at it, but I don't want to give up.
If you made it this far, thanks for reading and any suggestions you might have.
Greg
It has run flawlessly until the recently when it began tripping the circuit breaker after a good hour or two into the cycle. I've tried express, normal and prowash cycle settings. I've tried with and without the heated dry function. All fail.
After reading here about the diagnostic mode, I tried it, and originally and was getting a 2-1 error code for the control panel. All lights and buttons on the control panel work. I've taken out the control board. I metered the triac fuses and both passed (2.7 ohms). I do not see any hot spots on circuit board, panel or wiring. I removed the junction box and inspected the wires from the house, the wires from the dishwasher and the connections. Nothing discolored, burned, etc. Wire nuts were tight and no nicks or exposed wires showing.
When the circuit trips there is water in the bottom of the tub. I thought that perhaps it was actually the drain pump. I've removed it twice looking for debris and it is fine. I've started the diagnostic cycle with the pump detached and it energized when I closed the door. I can also hear and see water draining to the sink during the when it's running. This weekend I thought maybe it was a clogged drain hose. Tried blowing though and couldn't. Started taking things apart and thought that perhaps I had a bad check valve (allowing water to re-enter the tub) as my wife had washed some spice jars and the labels disintegrated. Didn't find any major obstructions and could blow through each hose before reassembling.
I thought it was perhaps our dual-function circuit breaker with GFCI/AFCI went bad from being tripped multiple times. I swapped it with an identical breaker in the box. Dishwasher is still tripping breaker and the old one is doing fine in it's new location.
I haven't yet ohmed out the heating element. Perhaps it has a pinhole crack somewhere that is grounding out with the water in the bottom of the tub? When I run the diagnostic cycle I'm now getting a 6-4 error code (float switch is fine, I mentioned my drain tubing and triac fuses above). The 2-1 error code is gone.
Suggestions on where to look or what to try next? I'm this close to calling and having a professional look at it, but I don't want to give up.
If you made it this far, thanks for reading and any suggestions you might have.
Greg
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