KDTE254ESS2 KitchenAid dishwasher cannot enter diagnostics mode

[Captn Cliffy]

Model Number

KDTE254ESS2

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

6-10 years

My friends have a 2017 KitchenAid dishwasher that hasn't been used for the past year to year and a half. Right now, I was trying to run the Service Diagnostics (I found the tech sheet in the kick panel), but pressing any 3 keys in the 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 sequence doesn't do anything. I tried different keys in different orders (each 3 times the same), but nothing happens. I work as an apartment maintenance technician, and we recently got Amana dishwashers - made by Whirlpool, just like KitchenAid. Same thing to run Service Diagnostics - any 3 keys 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3. I tried it on an Amana at work, and immediately all LEDs came on - Service Diagnostics was working. I tried a second time with a different key combo, and it worked again. So, with my friends' KitchenAid, I believe I'm pressing the keys in sequence with less than 1 second between key presses. Am I missing something, or is there another problem that prevents diagnostics from working?

 

[Jake]

That's very odd, What is wrong with the dishwasher to want to make you run diagnostics on it?

I'd first check the control board and see if it has any burnt spots on it.

Here's the control board for your model: W10866124

Here's your service manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/10A6C6XdX98ZCaI8H9pR1_kL5oGeWf9hL/view?usp=sharing

Page 4-5 shows you how to removal the door panel to access it. Make sure you disconnect power to the dishwasher first.

 

[Captn Cliffy]

Thanks for the quick reply, Jake. And thanks for the service manual link - having the manual is always helpful.

My friend had quit using the dishwasher because it wasn't draining. I started the dishwasher, but no water would enter. I poured water into the sump, pressed the cancel/drain button, and it drained fine. They had a plugged sewer line 1-1/2 years ago which I believe was the reason it didn't drain.

So, now I'm trying to diagnose why water fill valve isn't working. There is water to the valve, and the valve inlet screen is clear. I was able to check resistance on the solenoid, and it's in tech sheet range. I check for voltage with non-contact voltage indicator, and there is voltage - just not sure if it's 120.

I'll check the control panel next time I'm over there.

 

[Jake]

I check for voltage with non-contact voltage indicator, and there is voltage - just not sure if it's 120.

That's why its very important to use a normal multimeter: https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Multimeter/DM10T/964740 or hardware store has them.

Because that water inlet valve can be getting under 120 volts and it would never open the solenoid on it to let the water in.

 

[Captn Cliffy]

I went to check the voltage at the fill valve and the float switch, and made a discovery - the ground wire from the power junction box and one of the wires to the float switch had been chewed through! (Darn mice). A few questions:
1. I'm used to older, larger quick connects that I can easily attach my DMM to. What's the easiest way to check for voltage on these "micro" connectors?
2. Thanks again for the service manual. I see the instuctions for removing the door panel (which I haven't done yet). Is it possible to remove the outer door panel (fig. 3 on pg. 4-5) to have more room to access things behind the toe/kick plate, then carefully restore power to make voltage tests?
3. I see on the wiring diagram that the "hot" wire to the float switch/water fill valve is protected by the triac fuse. Since this is one of the wires that was chewed through, do you think it blew the fuse?

 

[Jake]

1. I'm used to older, larger quick connects that I can easily attach my DMM to. What's the easiest way to check for voltage on these "micro" connectors?

Use this safety pin trick:

2. Thanks again for the service manual. I see the instuctions for removing the door panel (which I haven't done yet). Is it possible to remove the outer door panel (fig. 3 on pg. 4-5) to have more room to access things behind the toe/kick plate, then carefully restore power to make voltage tests?

Yes, Removing Door Panel on page 4-5 shows you how.

3. I see on the wiring diagram that the "hot" wire to the float switch/water fill valve is protected by the triac fuse. Since this is one of the wires that was chewed through, do you think it blew the fuse?

Not likely.

Make sure you disconnect power before fixing your wiring though.

Let us know how it goes.