KDTM354DSS0 fills, can drain, but doesn't start wash

[bongoherbert]

Model Number

KDTM354DSS0

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

1-5 years

I've got a thing that just happened today - I see some similar but not exact problems here -

Basically- on any cycle, even just 'rinse', the cycle starts by running the drain pump. Then the machine fills. During that time, the main pump (I think) runs for a few seconds, for a few times. After this, the machine continues filling for a few seconds, then it stops and the front-panel flashes. Any attempt to continue the cycle fails. I have to drain it. There's no way it will keep running. I hear a relay 'click' as this happens, fwiw.

I ran the 1-2-3 diagnostics. There were several errors, 10-3, 9-1, 6-4, 8-2 I reset it and let it continue through the diagnostics.

Interestingly, it would go through the first test, show the 'clean' and 'sanitized' indicator (which, according to the service insert, means the temperature is OK maybe?) and then stop with the 'bar graph' on the front flashing 7 times and then nothing. All LEDs / front panel off. No more tests seem to be run.

Thoughts? Chaos?

 

[bongoherbert]

Addenda- after I reset the errors I get no codes now when I run the diagnostics. I also noticed that the error happens right before/during the soil sensor tests?

 

[Jake]

Ok, I just noticed this model has the problematic door vent, that can also cause this problem you are having.

Do this first--->Disconnect all the wire connectors to your door vent and see if it runs through a complete cycle.

Start reading what bigbuck said at post#18 here:

FIXED - KUDE60HXSS5 KitchenAid Dishwasher Fills but then Shuts off

So after successfully running the one hour cycle with the vent wire harness disconnected, I ran the ProWash/ProDry cycle with the vent harness disconnected with 100% success.

www.applianceblog.com

Your model uses the exact same door vent. If it runs through a complete cycle and everything is back to normal, then order and replace the door vent assembly.

Here it is for your model you can order:
WPW10469574 Vent


To access the vent assembly you will need a T-15 torx screwdriver: Remove 4 screws (long) across top of door, then remove 10 screws (short) on the sides, then the outer door panel pulls off.

Let us know what you find.

BTW, Can you please update your last thread I helped you with in January of 2020?

MHWZ600TW00 leaking from top of drum

Greetings all- I just moved into a new (to us) house where the previous owners left a Maytag MHWZ600TW00 front-loader. I noticed a wee-puddle after a large load recently but it hadn't recurred since. Then, I ran the cleaning cycle (fills the tub about 1/5 w water, spins it around and around with...

www.applianceblog.com

Thanks!

Jake

 

[bongoherbert]

Wow- I love the whole crazy obscure problem like this!

Indeed that seems to be it.

I'm going to take it apart to see if there is something going on physically, if I can't, then will order the whole assembly.

Thanks a million for having this wonderful piece of diagnostic memory! Proof yet again that —following the diagnostic routines built into the controller doesn't make up for actual exposure and experience.

 

[Jake]

Glad to help, keep us posted.

Jake

 

[bongoherbert]

The fan was the culprit. Basically the fan's motor controller was behaving poorly, meaning it would work about 30% of the time. The rest of the time it came back open or shorted out, which apparently made the dishwasher controller throw up its hands and do the 'flash the bar graph' error.

Probably all the better, a shorted out fan might be a fire hazard or some such thing

I was able to replace just the fan using a generic model and carefully salvaging the end connector from the OG fan.

I noticed, however, that the generic fan ($8 amazon because I could get it in <24 hours, RIP electronics parts counters) doesn't have the RPM / airflow mentioned on the site and, indeed, it is slower so it might not move as much air. It draws less current too, when running but that's not as likely to upset the dishwasher's controller (remember, it can run completely disconnected).

The OEM fan from China is $50 on amazon, at which point one might as well buy the whole assembly (e.g., Jake's link above) and do the job 1) right and 2) in one easy step. (The OEM part might have been a 3-wire dude too, I stopped looking after seeing the price... har!)

 

[Jake]

Yes, its best to get the whole OEM vent fan assembly that I posted the link to in post #3 above.

Glad that was the only problem.

Jake