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KDTM704ESS2 Kitchenaid dishwasher not filling with water

julian.wang921@

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2022
Messages
8
Location
State College, PA
Model Number
KDTM704ESS2
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
Hi Jake, after following your replies to several similar issues, I thought I did it, but unfortunately, still need your help...
My dishwasher would not fill with water a few days ago, while the motor can still operate. I tried to put some water in and found the draining and the spray arms were running well. I have also checked the water float switch that is working as well. The water inlet valve is also checked with about 1400oms, which seems working as well.

The wires connecting to the water inlet valve and the water float switch are also checked and they are just fine. Well, I measured the voltage to the water inlet valve when the system is running and found the voltage is only around 12 volts. So, I purchased a new control board and installed it, and the dishwasher was running well (express wash and top rack only).

Then, I thought I should measure the voltage again to verify whether it gets to 120V. However, after I measured, I found it was still 12V, and then the water would not be filled again even after I connected everything back... It is so strange.... The only thing I did is to use the multimeter to measure is voltage for the water inlet valve.

After that, I ran the self-diagnostics, and it shows errors, 6-2, 9-1, and 9-4... I haven't do anything to diverter... no leaking... I really have no idea. One feature I noticed: when my dishwasher was working after the door closed, it immediately fill the water. However, when the water is not filled, it sounds like the motor is started after 1 min, and then is just running for 5 seconds, stop 10 seconds, another 5 seconds running, stop 10 seconds, and then running as normal till the end, just without the water. It sounds like it seeks something in the beginning for communicating but failed... During this process, the voltage to the water inlet valve is only 12V.

Could you please help me address this mystery? Did I accidentally break something when I installed everything back, or did the voltage measure make something wrong? or, did the control board get faulty again?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
You should be getting 120 volts to the float switch AND water inlet valve for the water to fill. Are you getting 120 volts at the float switch when it should be filling?

This is how it works:
When it DOESN'T fill with water, you will need to check for 120 volts at the electrical connector that attaches to the water inlet valve. If your meter DOESN'T read 120 volts when it should be filling, first remove your tub float to make sure there isn't a foreign object underneath it or gunk buildup underneath it.

Here's the float for your model:
Float WPW10195036


When you click the link to the float you will see a video of how to remove it.:)

Looks like they changed how to remove it, now you have to go from underneath and move the float stem out of the channel its in, then it will pull out.

It used to just pull out from the top without doing anything underneath it.:)

If you find nothing underneath it, next check your float switch.

Here's the float switch for your model, when you click the link to it you will see 2 videos, 1 on how to access it, 1 on how to ohm test it:

If your float and float switch are good, and you get 120 volts at the water inlet valve electrical connector, when you first start a new cycle, then that means the water inlet valve is the culprit.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
Water Inlet Valve W11175771


Jake
 

julian.wang921@

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2022
Messages
8
Location
State College, PA
Thanks for taking the time on this issue. I have already checked the water float switch and the water inlet valve, and both of them are fine. However, when the system is started, no one gets 120V. The voltage to the water float switch is 65v, and the voltage to the inlet valve is 10v. It seems something is wrong with the board, right? However, this is a new board I just purchased and the machine did work well (express mode, I only tried) once after I installed this board, but then it failed. This is the most mysterious part for me. Is it because something short or erroneous in other parts which made the board faulty again?

Also, how about the errors 9-1 and 9-4 that were found after the diagnostics? Do these possibly cause the board to have voltage output issues? I have reconnected all wires of the diverter, and also dissembled and reinstalled the lower arm upon these two errors, while still no luck. These two errors were still reported. If the diverter has issues, the water will not fill?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Thanks for taking the time on this issue. I have already checked the water float switch and the water inlet valve, and both of them are fine. However, when the system is started, no one gets 120V. The voltage to the water float switch is 65v, and the voltage to the inlet valve is 10v. It seems something is wrong with the board, right? However, this is a new board I just purchased and the machine did work well (express mode, I only tried) once after I installed this board, but then it failed. This is the most mysterious part for me. Is it because something short or erroneous in other parts which made the board faulty again?
Ok, check for a broken or shorted wire between the control board and the float switch and water inlet.

Also, how about the errors 9-1 and 9-4 that were found after the diagnostics? Do these possibly cause the board to have voltage output issues? I have reconnected all wires of the diverter, and also dissembled and reinstalled the lower arm upon these two errors, while still no luck. These two errors were still reported. If the diverter has issues, the water will not fill?
No, it would still fill, so lets check for broken or shorted wires first.

Jake
 

Jake

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Messages
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I'm attaching your tech data sheet below, look on Page 4 where it says FILL.

Then on Page 2 you will see the control board pins that send voltage to BOTH:
P6-4 to P6-6 FLOAT SWITCH
P6-7 to P6-9 FILL VALVE
 

Attachments

  • Tech Sheet - W10758801 - Rev C.pdf
    2.8 MB · Views: 20

julian.wang921@

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2022
Messages
8
Location
State College, PA
I measured the oms from the terminal to the board, and it shows 1.4K for the water inlet valve, which seems good since I measured the water valve directly and got similar oms. Regarding the float switch, I checked the continuity and it is fine and shows 2.4 oms; when the float switch is up, the continuity is lost. So, the two pairs of wires seem good. Is something wrong with the board pins? May I directly measure the resistance (to fill valve) and the continuity (to switch) at the associated pins, if the terminals are connected to the board?

I read this manual and found there is a fuse F9, do we need to check that? If the fuse F9 is open, there will be no volts to the switch and valve, right? If so, then the fuse is probably ok since there are still some volts. Are there any issues with the door switch circuit? Once the door is closed, the motor starts running, so the door switch should be also ok. What else is possibly causing these two low voltage issues?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Messages
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Redmond, Oregon
You were suppose to check for volts at those pins, not ohms.:)

If the F9 fuse is blown, your will read 0 volts.

Did you check for a broken wire from the control board down to the float switch and water inlet valve?

That's why I wanted you to check the voltage at those pins, because if you get the proper volts at the board, but not at the float switch and water inlet valve then you have a shorted or broken wire, also check the metal pins in the plastic connectors to make sure none are bent or broken, or backed out.

Jake
 

julian.wang921@

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
8
Location
State College, PA
Jake, I did several measures and did not really get this... :=(
  • When the valve and the switch are both connected, I measured the voltages on those pins. 0V between P6-7 & 9, and 0V between P6-4 & 6. (However, when I only put one probe of my multimeter on only one pin, I got 12 volts).
  • When both items are not connected to the board, it shows 65V between the pins P6-4 & 6, and 1V between P6-7 & 9.
  • When the switch is not connected but the valve is connected, 65V between the pins P6-4 & 6, and 12V between P6-7 & 9.
  • When the valve is not connected but the switch is connected, 0V between P6-4 & 6, and 15V between P6-7 & 9.

I am very confused about how these items are electrically wired. It seems that the fuse seems ok, otherwise I should not get 65 volts from the board when the switch is not connected, am I right? Does this mean the switch has some issues because once the wires to the switch are connected, the voltage is changed to 0 between P6-4 and 6. My valve should be good. I have two new ones in my hand now.

However, the board seems wrong as well. If no one is connected, the board will still provide 120Volts for the valve and the switch, or it will not provide the full voltage if the wire is not fully completed or the switch/valve has defective issues?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
132,461
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Something is very out of the norm here. I would need to be at your house to investigate this problem, its extremely unusual!!!

Its best to contact KitchenAid to come out at 800-422-1230, then the KA tech can call the FACTORY HOTLINE from your house to investigate this problem, if the KA tech has not seen it before either.

Jake
 

julian.wang921@

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2022
Messages
8
Location
State College, PA
Jake, we can rule out the "fuse open" issue, right? 65V seems somewhat related to the supposed voltage since it is about half. Any other pins that should give 120V on the board? which ones are the power input cables? I want to check whether the overall board is under low voltage.

If the overall board is under 65V, the heating system and motor will still run (I can feel and hear the motor running, and the heating is still working as well)? or those two parts are separately connected directly to the main cable? Also, if the board has overall low voltage, that will drive errors on 9-1 and 9-4, am I right? is there possibly something wrong with the machine power input (e.g., bad/wrong grounded somewhere )?
 
Last edited:

julian.wang921@

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2022
Messages
8
Location
State College, PA
Just updated, by following the Fill diagram, I found the volt between P4-2 and P6-4 is 120 volts when the machine is off, while it is only 65V between P4-2 and P6-6. If the machine is not on, the voltage between P4-2 and P6-6 should be 120V as well, am I right? Is this normal?

When the machine is turned on, the voltage between P4-2 and P6-2 became 0 (I assume this is right, since the line is directly connected?), while between P6-4 and P6-6 is 65V. It seems some voltages are attached to the pin P6-6. So, when the machine is off, it is 65V between P6-6 and the input black wire; and when it is on, it gives 65V again. Should I give it a try with another new board?

BTW, if the motor and heater are running well, that means the door switch is good, right? I can rule out the door switch?

Sorry, Jake, I know you suggested calling for a KA technician. I am living in a small town and really want to try my best before scheduling the technician for visiting my place.
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
132,461
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Redmond, Oregon
Yes, if you found no broken wires and all your wire connectors are secure then it has to be a bad board.

Here's the control board for your model: W11368634

Now if you get another board and the same problem, then I can't help you anymore WITHOUT being there with you and the machine.

Then you will have to get KA out, or go buy a new dishwasher. This forum is designed for simple appliance repairs, things like this needs a person with the machine to investigate the problem.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
132,461
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Redmond, Oregon
Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 
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