KEBS208SSS04 Kitchenaid Double Oven - lower oven is now not producing any heat on either the broiler or bake elements

[alan_caro@yahoo]

Model Number

KEBS208SSS04

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

6-10 years

After a self clean, my KEBS208SSS04 double oven is working fine, other than the lower oven is now not producing any heat on either the broiler or bake elements. Upper oven is working just fine. Want to know if it is possibly the inner thermal fuse and if there are 2 of these in a double oven or just one? Given the upper oven is working does this mean that it is not the fuse? Thanks

 

[Dan O.]

Want to know if it is possibly the inner thermal fuse and if there are 2 of these in a double oven or just one? Given the upper oven is working does this mean that it is not the fuse?

The wiring diagram shows 2 thermal cutouts, one for each oven.

Wiring Diagram/Tech Sheet

https://f01.justanswer.com/woody463/b10f536d-cb94-48f8-bffd-6dc8bd0f5bfe_kebs207swh04+ech+Sheet+-+W10220954+-+Rev+A.pdf

When either fails it should prevent all elements in either oven from heating. It does sound like one of the two cutouts may have failed.

KEBS208SSS04 Thermal Fuse/Cutout

Whirlpool WP8304452 Fuse-Thrml (AP6012717) - AppliancePartsPros.com

FUSE-THRML WP8304452 / AP6012717 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Dan O.

 

[alan_caro@yahoo]

Thanks for your response Dan O. To be clear, am I correct to understand that there is only 1 fuse that has 2 thermal cutouts and that one thermal cutout has likely failed (in my case the one going to the lower oven) and is causing the problem? The solution is to replace with the part indicated (WP8304452)?

 

[Dan O.]

There are 2 of the same thermal cutout. The part I linked to. There is one for each oven. One has likely failed and if tested would show no continuity.

Appliance411: FAQ: How do I test for continuity?

Appliance411 FAQ: Continuity Testing Appliance Components

Sometimes a break is caused by component failure itself while other times the connecting wiring is the source of the open circuit. This is why the component itself should be tested and not just the circuit it may be connected to. To do this at least one wire of the connecting circuit should be...

www.appliance411.com

Dan O.

 

[alan_caro@yahoo]

Thanks Don. I figured that out when I pulled out the oven and I tested the fuse - there was no continuity. That particular fuse is not readily available and I saw another non-oem fuse that has the same specs 250V 10A 105C.

Started another post about this question on these 2 fuses with some pictures: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainf...hermal-fuse-for-kitchenaid-double-oven.90232/

Only spec difference I believe is that the non-oem is auto resettable. It looks very similar but I'm not sure if this is a good or bad idea. I can order the oem part and wait or go for this other one that is available and lot cheaper. Thanks for your help, very much appreciated.

 

[Dan O.]

I usually only recommend OEM replacement parts, especially for a safety device. Also, when a fuse blows it is usually a warning sign there may be a problem that needs looking into. Just installing a resettable device instead of a one-time fuse doesn't solve the underlying cause and could very well be dangerous by allowing continued use of a malfunctioning product.

Use non-OEM parts at your own risk.

JMO

Dan O.

 

[alan_caro@yahoo]

I will take your advice and order the OEM part. Thanks for the information and have a great day. Alan