• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake
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FIXED KEMC307KBT02 Kitchen Aid Microwave Door error?

Lordsandy

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
6
Location
Plymouth MA
Model Number
KEMC307K
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
Hello
I have a kitchen aid microwave and stove combo KEMC307KBT02 with “Door” error on the microwave.
I have replaced the 20amp fuse and all 3 door switches and still have the same error.
Where do I go from here? Any all help greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Jim
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,364
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Jim,

The only part left that would cause this problem is the control board itself, but its No Longer Available.

Oven Control Board 8302346


Jake
 

Lordsandy

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
6
Location
Plymouth MA
Jake,
I found the 120V 15A fuse and a continuity test proved it was blown, however after replacement the door error still existed.
There are three door switches the single on the left if fine, the inner on the right is fine however the outside switch while testing without wires works correctly with wires I am getting some noise through all three terminals when checking for continuity, any thoughts?
Thanks
Jim
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,364
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I have no clue, I will ask Rick, he and Jeff know microwaves inside and out.

Jake
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
36,494
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
If the 20 amp fuse keeps failing there's probably a direct short somewhere. Since you replaced the microswitches, the monitor switch sounds like a good place to start. The monitor switch is a NC "dead man" switch. It connects L1 to N causing a dead short when the door is open. Always remove the wire from the COM terminal on the switch when checking continuity. Check the microswitches by opening and closing the door. Make sure the wires are on the correct switch terminals. If the microswitches check good, look for any obvious signs of a short (burned wires or scorch marks) then disconnect the two wires on the primary side of the transformer and tape the ends and check for a short across the two power cord terminals. My feeling is the problem is somewhere in the door switch and latch assembly. You may need to adjust the latch if the door opening and closing doesn't open the switch. That will also cause a door error.
Microswitches.jpg
 

Lordsandy

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
6
Location
Plymouth MA
Hi
It’s not the 20A main bus but the 15A small bus fuse that keeps blowing.
Switches are all fine. Test them outside the door mechanism.
What would cause the 15A fuse to blow?
Thanks, Jim
 

Steve-

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2018
Messages
5
Location
California
Thanks! Found it and it was blown. I've checked the door switches and replaced one of them. The control panel fuse is good, so hopefully a new 20A 250V ceramic fuse will get my 15 year old microwave back in action.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
36,494
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
They wear out like everything else but with a microwave it's best to purchase 2 just in case.
 
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