Kemore/Frigidaire Gallery front-load washer bearings in Canada - anything else I should know?

Surly

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
21
Location
Toronto
Model Number
Gallery
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Hello:

Google has brought me here on several past occasions but this is my first time posting. The unit in question is a Frigidaire Gallery front load washer sold by Sears as Kenmore model# 970-C42062-00 known as the "Kenmore 42062" when we purchased it in June 2003.

Our laundry room is a little out of the way with it's own door, so the laundry isn't constantly supervised but I had been thinking to myself that the final spin was a lot louder than it used to be, but it's been slowly escalating over the last couple of years so I didn't really notice immediately. The other day I came home from an errand and my wife informed me that it was bucking and hammering all over the place doing a spin with a mix of sheets and towels so I started tearing into things wondering about the shocks and drum suspension.

This is when I started to evaluate the gritty feel of the bearings and the radial play in the basket (ie. stand and make like you're going to lift the machine through the opening but instead curl your fingers - clunk clunk clunk).

Google then brought me the wealth of problems with the bearings and the spiders on the rear of the drum. On evaluation without full disassembly I don't think the spiders are an issue. Lightening the load resulted in no odd noises and all of the thrashing was the entire drum unit moving around not just the basket inside of the drum. No leaking from the shocks, no rusty lube spray flung off the main pulley inside.

So, being a fairly handy person who DIYs almost everything on the car, house and various pieces of equipment I think that I'm going to think positively concerning the spiders, source some bearings and attempt to replace just the bearings and seals with appropriate quality units (I'm not spending $200 per bearing, but I'm also not going to get the OE replacement from China).

We use 1-2 tbsp of Tide HE detergent and our water is naturally soft without a softener (6-7 grain/gal IIRC). The washer door is left ajar after every load to dry out the machine. As I said I have my fingers crossed about the spiders. I can't figure out why they corrode so much so fast or why significant amounts of water are pushed past the bearings. Why so much water in that area? After a pump and spin it should just be damp. Anyways....

One problem comes from the fact that I am in Canada. A lot of the supply houses which are American "go to" sites have extremely expensive shipping options which negate any savings. A second problem is that I commute to work out of town via bus/train. I don't usually have the opportunity to "drop by" bearing supply or appliance parts places during their business hours. This combined with a busy home schedule (2 kids, repairs, chores) I need to BE PREPARED when I finally tear into this thing.

My present situation is pretty much summed up by the "before" video provided by another user, including the visible wobble of the rear of the basket:




I have read or at least skimmed all of the following:


I have noticed that there was a spike in these repair questions around 2005 and not too much since. It seems that a lot of the bargain pricing on full drum kits is gone. No more $125 full insert kits, instead it's $599US for just the full drum kit and $199US for the rear shell with bearings. I'm going to confirm this with Sears themselves, just in case, but everything I've seen in 2010 shows dramatic price increases over the last 5 years on these parts.

Is there anything I should know here that's more up to date? I plan to get a pair of bearings, a bearing seal, and a tub gasket. Our laundry area is fairly tight so I need to know what I'm getting into and tear into it only once if at all possible.


  • Are the right bearings still 6306-2RS and 6307-2RS? I saw lots of accounts that RepairClinic bearing+seal kits weren't the right parts.
  • I understand it can be hard to get a proper bearing seal from bearing suppliers - can a quality item still be had from appliance-oriented sources? Are there any standard part numbers for the bearing seal in the bearing industry? (ie. like 6306-2RS - not an appliance part#)
  • Are there any online bearing sources which, in 2010, I should check out before grabbing the yellow pages? (particularly in Canada)
  • Any other "while you're in there" parts/procedures for a 7 y/o machine? I was thinking about a belt at least. I've already cleaned out the "coin collector" (which was empty but dirty) and the pump because it was also making a bit of abnormal noise but is functioning fine.
Thanks in advance,
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, good post.

Let me say a few things first, I was a tech. at Sears for many years and saw this problem happen a lot. Now as a Sears tech. we were not allowed to just replace the bearings only, as they were not a separate part we could order, we would order the complete rear shell assembly which includes the bearings and seal.

So I've never changed just the bearings and seal myself, when I first started this forum, we had many folks very interested in this, as many thousands of people were having the same issue.

jnicosia is our member who made the step-by-step instructions to changing out just the bearings and seal here: [FIXED] Drum Gasket and Rear Shell Bearings

So, I'm afraid I help you in this area, you can always message anyone in that post to see if they can answer all these questions you have here.

Jake
 

spud72

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Joined
Feb 9, 2005
Messages
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Surly,
I am the "bearing specialist" that was AFAIK the first person to do this. Jnicosia wrote that great guide based on my and his experience doing it. If you really run into a bind, email me at bernse yahoo com and I can try to help you out. I'm in Alberta so it's not terribly difficult for me to get something out to you from here.

It's been *many* years since my original repair and I can say that the washer has been chugging along just fine all this time and I've never needed to so much as remove the cover from it since. I think that the catch for you may be if the shaft/spider on the drum is really worn. Mine was still pretty much pristine, but I think that's because I caught it so early. Since yours seems to be so old and have issues for so long, my worry would be that the bearings/seal might not be enough.

Never know until you get it apart though! Feel free to contact me if you need to.
Eric
 

Surly

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Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
21
Location
Toronto
Thanks for the replies, guys.

Jake: You do a wonderful service to many here and you are to be commended for it. I didn't intend my post in this forum to be limited to an "ask Jake" post, so much as to appeal to the collective wisdom out there since I know that others have done the same job. No one holds it against you that you haven't attempted this one yourself :)

spud72: I'm currently debating my approach to this. I've only done some limited looking but quality bearings are a little spendy from some places. I'm wondering if, since I don't know what I'll find until I get in there, I should just get some cheap, but new, bearing to get in there and do the job and see what happens. If other things are wrong (broken spiders, shaft is solid rust, who knows what else) then the bearings will become a secondary concern. If the new cheap bearings only last even a year, but were the extent of the issues with the machine, then I can just do it over again with good bearings this time. Do I make any sense at all here?

Do you know any good sources for the seal? If I get cheap bearings I'll probably just be going the ebay route so online is fine, but in-Canada is preferred.


Now, let's talk assembly lube. I was figuring that on the seal itself I'd use a non-petroleum, silicone-based lube called SuperLube. Pictured here: http://www.chaosfab.com/product/accessories/misc/superlube.jpg

This lube shouldn't damage or degrade the seal itself but provide some lubrication and corrosion resistance under the seal. While I haven't looked inside, I would use synthetic wheel bearing grease anywhere I was actually lubing a mechanism, and copper anti-seize on any fasteners encountered.

Anything I should lube differently?

Corrosion aside, is there much to installing and removing the bearings from the rear shell? I won't need a press, or to heat the shell and put the bearings in the freezer or anything like that?

Thanks, all
 

spud72

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spud72: I'm currently debating my approach to this. I've only done some limited looking but quality bearings are a little spendy from some places. I'm wondering if, since I don't know what I'll find until I get in there, I should just get some cheap, but new, bearing to get in there and do the job and see what happens. If other things are wrong (broken spiders, shaft is solid rust, who knows what else) then the bearings will become a secondary concern. If the new cheap bearings only last even a year, but were the extent of the issues with the machine, then I can just do it over again with good bearings this time. Do I make any sense at all here?
I see where you are coming from I think. Personally I'd just buy good ones (SKF, NTN, FAG, NSK) and be done with it. If you're unsure about the condition of the rest of the machine and if it's "worthwhile" - maybe just wait to buy them until you have it apart?
Do you know any good sources for the seal? If I get cheap bearings I'll probably just be going the ebay route so online is fine, but in-Canada is preferred.
A good bearing shop should be able to get that seal. I forget the dimensions, but just ask for it in a rubber coated double lip. I can probably help if you really get stuck.
Now, let's talk assembly lube. I was figuring that on the seal itself I'd use a non-petroleum, silicone-based lube called SuperLube. Pictured here: http://www.chaosfab.com/product/accessories/misc/superlube.jpg
I am very familiar with that lube. I sell thousands of dollars worth of it a year. It's overkill for what you need but it would work fine.
This lube shouldn't damage or degrade the seal itself but provide some lubrication and corrosion resistance under the seal. While I haven't looked inside, I would use synthetic wheel bearing grease anywhere I was actually lubing a mechanism, and copper anti-seize on any fasteners encountered.
If you're buying the Superlube, use it everywhere but I don't remember needing to grease anything else. I don't can think of any fasteners off the top of my head you would need to put anti-seize on... but it's been a long time.
Corrosion aside, is there much to installing and removing the bearings from the rear shell? I won't need a press, or to heat the shell and put the bearings in the freezer or anything like that?
No, you certainly won't need a press or freezer. IIRC it's a blind hole for pulling the bearings out. I used a puller but you could probably improvise with something else.
 

Surly

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Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
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Location
Toronto
Thanks, spud.

I already have the SuperLube and use it wherever I need non-petroleum lubrication so it's not a special purchase. It describes itself as being resistant to washing out, but I haven't found it to be all that amazing in that regard.

Thanks for the details on seal construction, I have 40X80X10 as the sizing.

I planned to have this completed by now, but life's been too busy to even get out and look for parts locally. For now we're running lighter loads, and not using high speed spin until it is repaired.
 

pokeyb

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Jun 18, 2010
Messages
4
Location
Wpg
Canadian sears has tub kits

Hi there,

Not sure if you've completed your repair or not. I have just begun to work on my machine (model # 970-c42162 (purchased fall '03)).

I was able to buy a complete tub kit for $230 (plus taxes) for my washer. It may be overkill but I'm thinking of replacing the bearings as well over the stock ones supplied in the new kit. I found a local supplier here in Wpg. that sells SKM bearings. I picked up the 6306, 6307, and a double lip seal for ~$65 (plus taxes). I'm only thinking of replacing the bearings as I don't want to have to go through this again in a few years (as others have done).

The part # at sears is 134453200 and I will note that it also works with washer model # 970-c40062-00 (from another forum thread). I'd hesitate on being 100%, but I'd think that it'd work for you as well (although I'd confirm that with one of their technicians as it's a 20% restocking fee).

Unfortunately, you'll get better service actually visiting your local sears parts store as the people on the 1-800 number aren't technicians and they WON'T put you through directly to a parts store (against company policy, so I'm told). If you visit and there are no tech's available, they can at least call you back to confirm the compatibility (read: at least the store actually has phones ;) ) as was my case.

Good luck (if you haven't already completed your repair), and oh well, if you have :)

Shaun
 

Surly

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
21
Location
Toronto
Good info.

Yes my repair was completed and it works great. It's still silent many months later. I did not have broken or corroded spider arms and I didn't have all that much build up of crud inside the tub assembly. Yay.

One big difference that I noticed between the original and replacement double lip seals - the original was two, full rubber discs with a void in between. The void may have been filled with some kind of waxy grease. When power washing everything clean outside it was hard to tell grease from detergent/softener buildup. The replacement seal was only a full disc on one side and then used a spring to reinfoce the area and form the second lip with an extension of the inner diameter. The replacement is not able to hold any grease in any way and I'm a little concerned about whether this is an inferior or superior design for this application.

On one hand the seal seems high quality and there's a spring to help keep both lips seated on the shaft. On the other hand, no place to stash lubricant.
 

zekev

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Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
1
Location
Canada
Ho guys... I'm so happy that i found that post. I'm also a DIY guy (It's really exhausting when you know you can do it)....I've just finished a huge (200k$) home improvement project. Now that I almost have time to relax, my washing machine is yelling at me ;o)


After removing the top I cannot see any source of leak. I guess its only the bearings. I bought this machine (model # 970-c40062-00) in 2001 so it's 12 years old.


Knowing the age of the beast, would you go through all this and change the bearings and the seal (hope the spider is OK).


How old are your machine ? Do they still work fine ?

While open... anything else I should change (I will check the belt) ?
 

Surly

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
21
Location
Toronto
Yep - 6.5 years too late.

My machine is still going fine with the replaced bearings (over 16 years old now). Right now it has cracks in the plastic panel on the interior of the door - need to figure out the part#. It's getting harder to cross-reference this machine.

Other than the bearings I've done a replacement fill valve, and multiple drum support shocks. The revised "two stage" shock design has been lasting the longest. No new bearing noises, but I could have a broken spider arm - not sure.
 
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