Kenmore 106.51132210 Ice Maker not working

dotson98

Premium Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Earth
Model
106.51132210
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
Hello-

Awhile ago our fridge started calling for a new water filter. I protested at the cost and just did not replace it. After a period of time it just stopped dispensing water. I have since replaced the water filter, but the ice maker is not making ice. I've searched this forum for possible answers, but I'm not finding anything.

The entire icemaker is in the door. I've pulled the plastic cover off and have examined the actual ice maker. I do not see anything out of the ordinary, and the fingers are horizontal. I poured some water in there, and it froze up nicely. Nothing else has happened. I checked the optical sensor - it is set to "on". I checked for any sort of led flashing on the front of the door (like a read in other posts), but it didn't do anything out of the ordinary.

I'm not sure what to check next.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Dan
 

dotson98

Premium Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Earth
So I unplugged the ice maker and checked for AC voltage across the black and white pair. With the switches held in, I got 1.6 VAC. Switches out, I got 2.9 VAC. Then I tried the black and ground. Switches held in I got 12.4 VAC. Switches out I got 8.1 VAC. Weird.

The plug has a nice plastic shroud around it, so I had to buy some special pick/pry tools from Harbor Freight to get it off without damaging it. :)
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
33,109
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
OK, I've never needed any tools to disconnect the connector so lets make sure we're on the same page. There's two ways to check ice maker supply voltage, at the connector:
ice maker connector.jpg
Or at the ice maker power module between holes "L" and "N" (connected):
Ice Maker Module No Cover.jpg

If we're still on the same page access the main control board and check for 120 VAC across P3-4 and P1-2
 

dotson98

Premium Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Earth
Yeah, it was just a pretty shroud that covers the connector.

Where will I find the main control board?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
33,109
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
On your model it's in a plastic box in the machine compartment. Look for a bunch of wires going into a plastic box. If your meter leads are too big for the connector use this trick:
safety pin trick.jpg
W11088499 Cntrl-Elec
whirlpool-cntrl-elec-w11088499-ap6284979_01_m.jpg
 

dotson98

Premium Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Earth
OK... I opened my machine compartment and found the card you show pictured. The connectors are numbers P1 through P3 from top to bottom (top meaning the top of the fridge, bottom meaning the bottom). Then, the pins on P1 appear to be numbered 1-4 from top to bottom. The pins on P2 and P3 appear to be numbered starting at 1, but from the bottom to top. I checked for voltage across the leads that I've highlighted below and got 1.6 VAC. :(

IMG_97761.jpg

InkedIMG_9779_LI.jpg

InkedIMG_9777_LI.jpg
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
33,109
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Measure the voltage between P1-2 and the Bk/Wh wire in the P3 connector. Is it 120 VAC?
 

dotson98

Premium Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Earth
So I've been talking to a local electronics repair guy about looking at my board. He's been asking for the wiring diagram. I pulled the front kick thing off and found some stuff. One sheet was a diagnostic instruction sheet. I put the fridge in diag mode and then checked the optical sensors. From what I'm reading, the fridge things the bin is full. Thoughts?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
33,109
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Thanks Jake! OK dotson98, make sure the the ice bucket is clean and nothing blocking the beam between the emitter and receiver. Take the following voltage measurements:

On the dispenser board: 14 VDC J5-1 (Red) to J5-3 (Bk/Wh).

On the emitter board: 14 VDC J1-1 (Brn) to J1-3 (Blk/Wht).

On the receiver board: 14 VDC J1-4 (Brn) to J1-3 (Blk/Wht).
 

dotson98

Premium Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Earth
Thanks for the diagram. I found mine and was about to upload it, but your copies are much better.

So, from what I see in the diagram, the emitter board and the receiver board are in the freezer door. The dispenser board? Which one is that?

How do I get to these?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
33,109
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
....the emitter board and the receiver board are in the freezer door.
Remove the ice bucket to access the optics
106 51132 disp-2.jpg



The dispenser board? Which one is that?
The one in the dispenser. Everything pretty much unsnaps to remove it. Remove the cover to access the board. The cover looks like this:
106 51132 disp.jpg

When you get the cover off the board looks like this:
106 51132 disp-3.jpg
 

dotson98

Premium Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Earth
OK, I'm getting a half volt on the emitter board. 14 VDC on the receiver. I didn't dig into the dispenser board, cause I'm ready to drop kick this whole thing :). I'm currently feeling a little better now that I have finally seen something that is expected. If I need to dig into the dispenser, I'll need to take another breath - I'm trying to figure out how to get into it.
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
33,109
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
J1-4 to J1-3 on the receiver is output voltage to the emitter so 0V on the emitter, Make sure the flapper is closed (tape it if necessary) and nothing is blocking the beam between the emitter and receiver. Still no VDC- replace the emitter:
W10870822 Cntrl-Elec
 

dotson98

Premium Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Earth
OK, so the only access I have to the boards is by pulling them out. This makes it impossible to keep the beam in alignment. I closed the flapper (duh, sorry) and still saw no change in voltage. I replaced the boards so that the beam would be in alignment and I actually penetrated the brown and yellow wires that should be carrying the current that we are trying to measure. With the flapper closed and the emitter/receiver in alignment, I saw no increase in voltage.

Do you think that covers it? It's the emitter?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
33,109
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Actually the beam and flapper doesn't matter since. My bad,sorry. Replace the emitter.
 
Top