Kenmore 106.51764510 Refrigerator not cold.

[Thomas31093]

Model Number

106.51764510

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

6-10 years

Kenmore Model 106.51764510 side by side refrigerator that doesn't seem as cold as it should. I had been noticing that bottled water didn't taste as cold as it had and then today, Sept 7 could hear a distinct low buzz noise. The freezer is cold, the fridge area doesn't see as cold as it once was. I did notice not hearing the evap fan inside the fridge running. I took it out and looked it over and didn't see anything out of ordinary.

There was some thin ice on wall of fridge on freezer side. The coil was not iced over. The evap fan does turn. but not sure how much resistance to it when spinning by hand. I haven't noticed the fan in freezer blowing either, stuff is still frozen. I did look under fridge and coils are clean, very little dust.

I tried to run diagnostic mode, but not sure if doing it correctly. I opened the door on fridge and pressed button for lights to go out and evap fan didn't turn on. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to throw unnecessary parts at it. If anyone knows if it could be evap fan or control board. The compressor does feel hot to touch and sounds like it is running and the fan next to compressor is running as well.

 

[Jake]

Hi,

Let's first see if your getting power to the refrigerator evaporator fan motor, you can use a multimeter and take the volt readings from the main control board, which is located in the back of your refrigerator after you pull it out from the wall you will see a access panel that covers it, just remove that access panel then you will see it.

Here's the main control board for your model:

Whirlpool WPW10743957 Cntrl-Elec (AP6024014) - AppliancePartsPros.com

CNTRL-ELEC WPW10743957 / AP6024014 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

On the main control board, At the wire harness connector labeled P14 pin 3(blue wire) and pin 4(gray) you should be getting 14 volts DC

If your getting 14 volts DC at those pins and the fan in the refrigerator section is NOT running, then its bad.

Here's the refrigerator evaporator fan motor assembly #17 for your model:

Whirlpool W11098695 Fan-Scroll (AP6050525) - AppliancePartsPros.com

FAN-SCROLL W11098695 / AP6050525 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

I posted the parts diagram and tech data sheet for your model below.

#17 in the parts diagram is the refrigerator evaporator fan motor.

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[Thomas31093]

I found the main control board as you stated, but P14 the wire is not on pin 3, pin 3 is blank, but the blue or gray did not respond anything on voltmeter. When I have turned cooling off and restarted the refrigerator, the fan does start, but runs intermittently. I removed the fan and found some blueish corrosion in the plug. I tried to clean it, plug fan in and it started. Nothing has been spilled in that area to run behind to get into fan plug in. Since then, though, it must run intermittently. I did discover that the evaporator coil may have a small leak. The evaporator at joint, has some gooey black stuff around joint with clear tape around it? I hear a slight hiss sound? I didn't know if that was just system equalizing maybe? The thing that is odd, the freezer side is freezing and fridge section is cool but not cold. Compressor is running quiet, sounds normal and warm to touch, but not hot. I tried to put fridge in diagnostic mode, all I would get is 01 flashing, so not sure, tried to read the maintenance paper that came with it, but it was vague to me. I bought this refrigerator new in 2016 I believe and its only me that has used it. I haven't hooked water to it to use yet because remodeling home and replacing pipe with pex and have not ran water line to fridge yet. I am hesitant of scraping fridge. I am concerned about the evaporator coil in fridge side may have a leak. If that is the case of evaporator leak in fridge side, then why does seem to be working fine in freezer side? I threw away a bunch of food, even shut refrigerator off and it was off for 3 days. Yesterday 9/11 decided to turn fridge back on to let run. I put a bottled water, some reusable ice packs and they were frozen solid this morning 9/12 at 4am.

 

[Thomas31093]

Here is P14 plug on control board. The gray and blue wire is there, but gray is on pin 4 and blue on pin 5. Nobody has messed with this refrigerator, so not sure why the wires are not at pin 3 & 4 as you stated. I could not get any DC voltage readings with meter. I forgot to say in post before, when I cleaned plug of evaporator fan, and it came one when plugging in. Once I put fan back into the styrofoam enclosure, put assembly back in place, when I put the hard cover panel on, the fan shut off. Does this happen because door was open or because fan possibly has a short? When I go and periodically check, open refrigerator door to check temp fan is running sometimes and then sometimes it isn't running. The times it isn't running it seems to be not that cold inside refrigerator of course. The freezer side is still cold and ice packs frozen. It makes me think control board could be faulty. I am mechanically inclined, can diagnose most problems, but I am not an expert on electronics.

If indeed the evaporator fan motor is bad, I have found new fan motor by itself without paying extra for the styrofoam case around it? The part number that is on the fan is W10673906A. Is there something specific about the fan motor? When I look up W10673906, without the letter (A) at the end, the fan motor shows up. Even on Sears parts website fan W10673906 shows up replaced by W10633627 for $88.26 same plug and DC14V 0.17A fan vs Sears price of $148.29 plus with styrofoam around fan.

 

[Thomas31093]

One thing odd about this model refrigerator, the evaporator in refrigerator side, just sitting in styrofoam and not held in by any screws even though there are tabs on each side with positions for screws. I had always heard that Kenmore line was made by different manufactures. I always figured that ones made by Whirlpool or used Whirlpool parts would be a little better quality. Like I said I bought this refrigerator new, and it hasn't been abused in any fashion. Hopefully this can be repaired and not have to find another.

 

[Thomas31093]

When you get a chance, read my updates, I thought I sent it. This was first time on here. Any help is appreciated greatly. Trying to use a dorm size fridge stinks. Is defrost timer built into the control board? This model has 2 circuit boards under the cover on the back. I did find the P14 plug you spoke of. The wires are in different spots than what you called out.

 

[Jake]

I found the main control board as you stated, but P14 the wire is not on pin 3, pin 3 is blank

I'm going by what your tech data sheet says:

RC Fan is Refrigerator Compartment Fan

From your photo of the board and wiring connector P14, you read the Pins from RIGHT to LEFT. So Pin 1 is RED, Pin 2 is BLACK, Pin 3 is BLUE, Pin 4 is GREY.

Jake

 

[Jake]

I forgot to say in post before, when I cleaned plug of evaporator fan, and it came one when plugging in. Once I put fan back into the styrofoam enclosure, put assembly back in place, when I put the hard cover panel on, the fan shut off. Does this happen because door was open or because fan possibly has a short?

Make sure the refrigerator door is closed, or tape the door switch closed and try it.

Make sure that fan motor electrical connector is on the fan motor tight and secure, make sure the metal pins inside it and not bent or backing out of the electrical connector.

Jake

 

[Thomas31093]

The fan would run with door open sometimes. I wonder if control board is faulty now. The evaporator is leaking, so I think refrigerator is just in general going bad all over. I haven't even at rear of fridge, could hear something going on in freezer side, so wonder if that evaporator coil on that side is leaking as well. When all this first started, the compressor was scalding hot, could not keep hand on it longer than 2 seconds.

 

[Jake]

The evaporator is leaking, so I think refrigerator is just in general going bad all over. I haven't even at rear of fridge, could hear something going on in freezer side, so wonder if that evaporator coil on that side is leaking as well. When all this first started, the compressor was scalding hot, could not keep hand on it longer than 2 seconds.

That sounds like a sealed system problem, what's the temperature in the freezer that you read with a freezer thermometer?

Jake

 

[Thomas31093]

It doesn't cool either side now. I had a funny smell in house so think every bit of freon leaked out of evaporator coil in fridge leaking.

 

[Jake]

Time to go refrigerator shopping then, it would cost more to fix yours than its worth.

Jake

 

[Thomas31093]

Time to go refrigerator shopping then, it would cost more to fix yours than its worth.

Jake

I appreciate the advice and help. I have a refrigerator given to me from a friend, Whirlpool French Door. I put a post about it, reason it was free, does have an issue. At least this one, system is sealed.

 

[Jake]

Ok, I just replied to it.

Jake

 

[Thomas31093]

I hate giving up on this Kenmore, it isn't that old, it like new shape, but I know they aren't made like they used to be. I even left the plastic on the outside of the doors to protect it while remodel work was being done. I did put it in diagnostic mode and the RC evaporator fan that was in question does turn on. The FC evaporator fan is noisy now and does run in diagnostic mode as well. If the leak on the evaporator is small, can it be brazed back? The FC evaporator looks like it is aluminum and I know that copper and aluminum can corrode. I have seen new OE evaporator coils as low $154.99. Unless the compressor is shot, those are $349 and up from what I have found. It almost looked like when this refrigerator was built, there was plastic heat shrink on the joint of evaporator coil.

 

[Jake]

If the leak on the evaporator is small, can it be brazed back?

No, not on that aluminum evap coil. You'd need to replace it.

Here's the refrigerator evaporator coil for your model:
Evaporator WPW10643261


Compressor/sealed system work is not a repair a normal consumer can do. Doing compressor/sealed system work is very unique craft that you need to be trained in with lots of hands on experience.

Doing sealed system work requires you to have a turbo torch, acetylene for the torch, knowledge of how to use and weld with a turbo torch, also having a vacuum pump, and the proper amount of R-134a to use, changing the Filter Drier as well, solder, flux, silfloss, sandpaper, etc.

You need to be a certified Type 1 40 CFR part 82, subpart F. AHAM-NARDA Refrigerant Tech. to change Compressors or do any sealed system work involving Freon(Refrigerant Gas). I got certified on 11-17-1994 when i worked for Montgomery Ward Service Dept.

You'd have to have a licensed refrigeration tech come out and do it for you.

Cost can range from $800 to $1000

Jake

 

[Thomas31093]

The replacement RC evap coil a copper coil or another aluminum with copper ends connected to it? Just wondered since the replacement part number had changed.

 

[Jake]

That's all it says Thomas.

Jake