Kenmore 110.26002010 Washer Won’t Start

[jsmo50]

Model Number

110.26002010

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

More than 10 years

Hi. My washer started acting up today, and I’m hoping you can help diagnose the problem. When I went to check on the last load, it had drained but the clothes were still soggy. There were a few Indicator lights flashing, but I don’t remember which ones specifically. I turned off the power, set it to drain/spin and everything seemed OK. The next load went through the sensing cycle, then started making a loud buzzing sound from the bottom of the washer. No water went in. I let it buzz for a minute or so before unplugging it. Now, when I plug it back in it buzzes from the top control panel until I turn the power on. When I try to run it, the same thing happens - sensing, no water, and then Buzzing until it’s unplugged.

The error code is F7E5 which I think is the shift actuator. Do the symptoms indicate that being the problem, or could it be something else? Any suggestions would be appreciated! BTW, I checked the pump, and it seemed OK. Thanks!

 

[Jake]

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

Which part is buzzing inside the control panel? Put your hand on the water inlet valves and see if the solenoids on them are buzzing.

For the F7E5:
Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. This is very important since most complaints start with the lid lock on and blinking, or the unit will not start and spin.

If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if
after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control, and most likely the wiring harness connections (although still check the BK wire from the shifter to the control). Remember, the timing wheel only turns in the
transmission during the spin cycle.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.

This is proof that the shifter/sensor assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order here(Video Included):
Shift Actuator WPW10006355


Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[jsmo50]

Thanks for the quick reply! I cleared the error codes today and decided to run a test load to see what would happen. Since I did nothing other than clear the codes, I fully expected the same no start/buzzing problem. To my surprise, it went through the sensing cycle, filled with water, and finished the load just like it should. I’ve since run three more loads and everything seems to be working fine!

Can clearing the codes actually fix a problem, or do you think it’s just a matter of time before the original problem pops back up? Either way, fingers crossed it keeps working at least for a while!

 

[Jake]

Can clearing the codes actually fix a problem, or do you think it’s just a matter of time before the original problem pops back up?

Usually just clearing the error codes does not fix it, so keep your eye on it and see how it does.

Jake

 

[jsmo50]

Alright, the problem decided to pop back up again today. Same exact scenario - start the load, it senses then a buzzing noise coming form the bottom motor area. I let it go this time to see if anything would happen. After a minute or two I started getting a burning electrical smell and unplugged it. Codes were showing F7E5 and F1E2. I cleared the codes and ran the heavy agitation test. It just make some clicking noises in time with the flashing lights. It sounded like it was coming from the control panel area up top. After about 60-90 seconds, the motor kicked on and seemed to run fine. The spin test ran fine as well.

Making things even more interesting, I just ran a cycle and everything worked perfectly normal again. No codes are showing currently. Any ideas on what might be going on?

 

[Jake]

It sounds like a shorted wire getting ready to break altogether.

First check for a shorted wire underneath the outer tub assembly, look at what this guy found with his:

FIXED - MVWX500XW1 Maytag washer won't spin on spin cycle.

I now have F7 E1 I'll follow procedures to test soon. Need to pick up Grand Daughter shortly.

www.applianceblog.com

Then look at post #38 of that thread and you can see how he repaired it.

Tilt the washer back and look underneath the outer tub assembly where those wires are and see if you notice any wires that are looking like they are shorting out or getting ready to break.

Jake

 

[jsmo50]

I was able to get 3 or 4 loads to run yesterday before the problem reappeared. At that point I pulled the plug and let it sit for a few hours. Next, when I plugged it in and before turning on the power it buzzed up top by the dial/control board. If I turned on the power, or let it sit for a minute it went away. When I tried to run a load it went into sensing mode, and the basket spun briefly like normal. It cycled through this a couple of time then the buzzing started again. This time, it was coming from the motor. The basket turned very slowly and eventually stopped completely. I checked all the wires and didn't find anything that looked suspicious. I also wiggled and made sure all the connectors were snug.

At this point I cleared the codes and ran the auto diagnostic test. When it got to the "shifter moves to agitation position" test nothing happened. The rest of the test was good. I then ran the" gentle agitation" test in manual mode per the instructions. It clicked several times before finally kicking in and agitating. The same thing happened in the "low spin" test. After that I ran the auto test again and everything worked fine. It's now working like normal again.

Suggestions on where to go from here? It sure seems like maybe the shift actuator is intermittently failing?

 

[Jake]

Yes, its possibly the shift actuator.

In your tech data sheet I posted above on page 13--->TEST #3a: Drive System – Shifter

You will need a multimeter to confirm if the shift actuator is bad or not.

Jake