FIXED Kenmore 110.64112200 Dryer Overheating

[RickyD]

Model Number

110.64112200

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

More than 10 years

My almost 20-year-old Kenmore dryer occasionally overheats to the point where it shuts off. Stress on the word "occasionally". It's very hot to the touch whether I use Low Heat Auto Dry or High Heat Timed Dry. In either case, my clothes are never damaged. Call it a coincidence, but if I put in a full load from the washer, 9/10 it runs properly without shutting down. Still very hot to the touch, but not shutting down. But if I put in something small like one or two pairs of jeans or a few towels, it will shut down more often than not.

When it does do it, I can either put it on Air Dry for a few minutes then go back to to the original setting to finish or I can open the door for about 3-5 minutes for it to cool down, start it back up, then finish.

Cycling thermostat?

Also, if it helps, when I removed the Chute to check for lint buildup (it was clean), I noticed that the foam padding between the chute and the bulkhead was pretty much non-existent.

Thanks!

 

[Dan O.]

It's very hot to the touch whether I use Low Heat Auto Dry or High Heat Timed Dry.

The cabinet gets very hot to the touch??

If so, that's usually a sign of a venting problem. The venting needs to be inspected from the dryer all the way to the outdoors. See the following link.

LINK > Appliance411 FAQ: Dryer Venting Information (link sometimes slow to load)

These links are pertinent to your message. They were supplied by this message author. Please view them.

Cycling thermostat?

Possibly but less likely. You can try running a load with the venting totally removed from the dryer to see if conditions improve. If it does improve you can be sure the venting is (at least part of) the problem.

when I removed the Chute to check for lint buildup (it was clean), I noticed that the foam padding between the chute and the bulkhead was pretty much non-existent.

I'm not certain which part you're referring to. Do you mean the seal just under the filter handle?

LINK > 110.64112200 Lint Filter


Dan O.

 

[RickyD]

Hello, Dan O!

Yes, the cabinet is very hot. Not enough to cause skin burns, but hot enough to become alarmed by it when touching it. The vent is completely free and clear. I even pulled the vent completely off the back of the dryer to make sure before making the post.

The blueprint calls it a chute, but I was referring to the part on the left (looking from the back) where the lint screen slides into (where most of the lint collects at the bottom). When it is removed, it reveals the blower fan. Between the top of it and the tiny holes going to the drum was a foam seal. It's about 90% gone.

 

[Dan O.]

the cabinet is very hot.

The cabinet gets hot from lack of air movement. The heat has nowhere to go so it just rises.

The vent is completely free and clear.

All the way to the outdoors? not just from the dryer to the wall?

Did you try doing a small load with the vent totally removed to rule the venting out?

when I removed the Chute, I noticed that the foam padding between the chute and the bulkhead was pretty much non-existent.

Then it should be replaced. It might be part of the problem. You could also check the rear drum seal.

LINK > Lower Chute Seal

LINK > Upper Chute Seal (no photo)

LINK > Dryer Drum Seal

All would be exasperated by a blockage or partial blockage in the venting.


Also make sure the blower fan is secure on the motor shaft.

Dan O.

 

[RickyD]

Sorry for the late reply.

Still does it with the vent completely removed and only attempting to dry a single pair of jeans. It appears completely random as later, my wife (not knowing of this issue) dried a full load with no stoppage at all (Low Heat - Auto Dry). I went to dry a second load the next day (approx 6 towels only) and it stopped - however, this time, the chassis wasn't hot to the touch, but it was extremely hot in the drum and the dryer door was very hot.

 

[Dan O.]

You originally posted it "overheats to the point where it shuts off". Maybe it isn't the heat shutting down the motor?

When it shuts off can it be restarted immediately or do you have to wait a while before restarting again?



Dan O.

 

[RickyD]

I waited a couple of days to try to discover more conditions. It really seems random at this point. My wife ran about two full cycles (one on a 30-minute Timed High Heat and one with Auto Dry Low Heat) without it shutting down; on the next run about two days later, the dryer didn't go for 10 minutes before getting hot and shutting down regardless of heat setting. Sometimes when it shuts down, the chassis isn't hot, but the door and inside the drum is very hot and sometimes the chassis is very hot. I'll walk down and check it every 10 minutes to see if it's running and if it is, I press my hand on the door and the chassis and they're warm, but not hot. Then - randomly - I can get back to another room, I can hear it turn off. I go back down and it's very hot. Other times, I'm checking it every 10 minutes until it finishes without shutting down - babysitting it if you will.

It's usually no more than 2-3 minutes when we hear it turn off before we can get to it and it does start right back up. It may run for a few more minutes and shut down again or it may finish. It feels completely random, that's why I initially suspected a failed/failing thermostat.

 

[Dan O.]

There's no heat source at the front of the cabinet besides the hot air inside the dryer. I'm sorry but I have no idea why any area of the cabinet would get hotter than normal besides poor air flow.

2 things can shut the whole dryer down, the motor overheating and cutting out on its internal overload protector or an intermittent power connection to the motor. The only components in series with the latter are the timer and door switch. An overheat condition of those components (ie. a loose or poor connection) could stop the motor. None however would be affected by the dryer temperature.

LINK > 110.64112200 Dryer Motor

Motor failure of this nature is common on all makes of dryers.


Someone could also check the wiring to the dryer at the wall outlet and the main dryer connection when it stops. Maybe there is a loose or burning wiring connection that overheats with use (not the temperature in the dryer) shutting power to the whole dryer down.

LINK > The Appliance Clinic: Electric Dryer Defective Main Terminal Block



Dan O.

 

[RickyD]

Sorry for waiting almost a month for an update, but out of desperation, I:

Scraped off the remnants of the seals between the chute and the bulkhead with felt (no fix, but the dryer seemed to run longer before shutting off).

Replaced the Dryer Cycling Thermostat (no fix)

Replaced the High Limit Thermostat and Cut-Off Fuse at the same time (fix?)

I was using the concrete-smack trick to reset the Cut-Off Fuse when the dryer wouldn't heat, but I replaced the HLT and COF at the same time. Over the past two weeks, we have dried well over 20 loads and it's yet to overheat and turn off.