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Kenmore 110.79133413 no heat, igniter is coming on, but then brakes halfway

No_mad

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2020
Messages
9
Location
Los angeles
Model Number
110.79133413
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
Hello
Here is the Kenmore dryer with a sensor control panel. It runs, but not heating. The weird thing is that it has F4E3 (restricted airflow) and F2E1 (stuck button on the control panel) error codes while the only problem that really exists is no heat.
The igniter starts to glow, but then something interrupts the power to it and it goes back. Thermostats are fine, as well as the igniter and the flame sensor. \

Any suggestions?
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
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Canada
No_mad said:
The igniter starts to glow, but then something interrupts the power to it and it goes back.

I assume you meant to say, 'then it goes black'.


The ignitor is not suppose to stay on all the time. It cycles on and off. Does the ignitor ever start glowing again after it cycles off?


Dan O.
 

No_mad

Premium Member
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Messages
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Location
Los angeles
It starts to glow once the selected cycle is being applied. Then stops glowing before getting enough hot to open the flame sensor. It wouldn`t come on again during that certain cycle, it comes again in the same manner once you start any new cycle.
 

Dan O.

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Than it is likely the control stopping it. Guessing, the control may be acting upon the idea of restricted airflow and shuts the burner down as a safety precaution.

I'd suggest looking into what might be causing that error message.

JMO

Dan O.
 
Last edited:

No_mad

Premium Member
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Location
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That sounds very logical, thank you!
It also might be an outlet thermistor, might it? If it gives a bad signal to the mainboard.

One more concern is the second error code, F2E1 (stuck button on the control panel). The unit does not have any physical buttons, thus nothing could be stuck.
Is it possible to have a faulty User Interface (control panel) as well?
 

Dan O.

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No_mad said:
It also might be an outlet thermistor

That might be a possibility.

Have you tried running it with the vent totally removed to see if it acted any differently?


No_mad said:
The unit does not have any physical buttons, thus nothing could be stuck.


How do you set the options??

Img_3304assembled-highlight2.jpg


Dan O.
 
Last edited:

No_mad

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Oct 22, 2020
Messages
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Location
Los angeles
That might be a possibility.

Have you tried running it with the vent totally removed to see if it acted any differently?

Yes, I run it without the duct attached. Same.

Sensor panel means it has no physical buttons made by plastic etc., it`s skin sensitive flat sensor panel like smartphone screen and I am not sure it is able to stuck in any kind.
 

rickgburton

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Here's the part you need:
 

rickgburton

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Dan O.

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No_mad said:
it`s skin sensitive flat sensor panel like smartphone screen and I am not sure it is able to stuck in any kind.


Any switch can get stuck, ie short. It doesn't have to be a mechanical button. Capitance switching can fail too although I don't know the specific failure possibilities. The control is just registering the short. It doesn't know what it causing it.

all the functions of the control panel work correctly?


About the other error, have the sensor resistances been checked?


Dan O.
 
Last edited:

No_mad

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Oct 22, 2020
Messages
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Location
Los angeles
Ok, what we got for today.

It actually drove me crazy, but after spending two hours on this dryer, it seems that it started working.

First of all, I checked the line going from the heater relay all across the heater assembly. It was closed with running motor and open when the motor stopped. That means the chain is ok along with all thermostats.
Then I checked the resistance of two thermistors, inlet, and outlet, and they were in the normal range.

After that, I ran the dryer having multitester probes on red wire (outcoming) on the heater relay and the neutral to check for the voltage. After starting, it gave me 120V. But the ignitor started glowing and then went dim, even with constant 120V from the relay. Something obviously interrupted the chain.
Checking all components of the chain made me quite sure that it was a bad thermostat. Whirlpool called it thermal fuse, anyway it is the right bottom one on the picture.
So I replaced that and the dryer started working... Until I got it back assembled. It refused to heat at all.
Then I changed the cycle from Normal to Fast. And it ran again.

Applying different cycles showed that it works fine in fast, bulky, and timed dry, and doesn`t work in any other. I was hesitating, but it seemed, finally, that it was a malfunctioning mainboard W10802081.
I replaced it and it started working in all of the cycles.

Thank all of you for the replies!
 

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No_mad

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Oct 22, 2020
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Los angeles
Quick update on theme :)

I`ve got a recall for this dryer. The same problem, no heat. The igniter is coming on but then stops. The flame sensor is sending power to the coils, but they do not open the valve. Replacing coils didn`t help.
So the only issue that might be is the valve itself, isn`t it? It also makes a funny buzzing sound from inside when the igniter is glowing.
 

rickgburton

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It also makes a funny buzzing sound
It sounds like the sleeve /insert is missing. A lot of times it sticks inside the old coil and gets thrown away. The valve won't work without it and unfortunately it's not sold as a separate part.
Sleeve Gas Valve.jpg
 

No_mad

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Location
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It sounds like the sleeve /insert is missing. A lot of times it sticks inside the old coil and gets thrown away. The valve won't work without it and unfortunately it's not sold as a separate part.
Thanks! No, the sleeve is in place, I reinstalled it twice with new and old coils (old coils had good resistance, I checked it just in case)
 

Jake

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I just clicked the one Rick posted in post #10 and it says there is 1 left, hurry and get it.:)

Jake
 
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