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Kenmore 417.43142300 trap missing?

bengineer

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
12
Location
Nashville
Model Number
417.43142300
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
Hi, we seem to have an issue with our front loader. In the spin cycle, it spins pretty fast, but not really hauling the mail like we think it used to. All cycles work fine except this one. It does seem to have trouble balancing the load for a good spin. The worst is the other day when we were washing a bedsheet and mattress cover, it would tumble, but would not spin at all. Took the sheets out and ran a few light loads and all seems fine, except for the slow spin. I was thinking we might have overloaded it, but it's never been a problem before.

Looking on this blog and on youtube, I opened it up thinking that the lint trap would be full, but there is no lint trap in there whatsoever. I took out the pump and pulled it apart, the impeller seems fine, no debris or visible signs of binding.

Should this unit have a lint trap? We bought this unit new, it's never needed service. So it's possible it was assembled without a trap.

Which makes me wonder what our problem might be?

Many thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
116,020
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
There is no more lint traps on any washers anymore.

There is a button/coin trap just before the drain pump.

Here it is:
131784700 Hose


So, it will spin fine in the first spin, but in final spin it does not spin at all with a heavy load? But a light load it will spin, but not fast?

Does it drain all the water out of the tub within 45 seconds? No water remains in the tub?

Does it do this on all cycles?

The motor sensor senses the resistance of the tub when it is turning back and forth, motor sensor that detects an off-balance load. But before we say the motor is the culprit, a few members have reported to first unplug/replug the cable between the motor speed control board and the motor, and see if that resolves this issue.

Just unplug the machine then unplug/replug that motor speed board connector, then plug it back in.

Also check your plastic motor electrical connector where the wire harness connects to, I've seen the pins either burn/arc or get loose in there and pull out of place, and cause a NO FINAL HIGH SPEED SPIN issue.

Here's the service manual for this model, The troubleshooting section starts on page 45: https://www.applianceblog.com/manuals/360_TumbleActionWashers.pdf

Ohm test the motor too, here's the normal readings:
M1 TO M2 = 2.6 OHMS + or - 7%
M2 TO M3 = 2.6 OHMS + or - 7%
M1 TO M3 = 2.6 OHMS + or - 7%
M5 TO M6 = 184 OHMS + or - 7%

Here's the motor for your model you can order if needed:
134869400 Motor


Jake
 

bengineer

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
12
Location
Nashville
Kenmore 417.43142300 update

Hi Jake, thank you for your response!

Two problems have presented-

One- the other day while washing a heavy load of bedsheets and a mattress cover (both in same load), it would tumble back and forth for wash, but would not spin at all. I removed the sheets and mattress cover and ran an empty load and it tumbled fine, but not high speed final spin, only final spin a lower speed.

Two- Watching the washer with a lighter load, the final spin cycle is not fast like it used to be, even when the fast mode is selected. It also seems to have a hard time balancing the load for the final fast spin. I noticed one of the shocks was leaking brown fluid which I took to be oil from the shock absorber, so I ordered a new pair. I'll take a look at the motor windings with the ohmmeter and reseat the connections to the motor driver board (as you suggested) when I take it apart to replace the shocks.

The button/coin trap was clean- no debris, as was the impeller.

Does this look like a good plan? Suggestions?

Many thanks,

Ben
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
116,020
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes Ben, I was going to mention shocks, but usually even if the shocks are leaking it would still do the high speed spin with no clothes in it. It would be banging alot when the shocks are bad.

Have you tried it with no clothes in it to see if it kicks into high speed spin?

Has the tub been banging the sides or the whole machine bouncing like crazy?

I remember I had one where it was bouncing so bad it actually damaged the motor speed control board, which is located on the base of your washer. So you may want to unplug the machine and take out the speed control board and look for damage on it or burnt spots on it. If that's the case then order the speed control board with the new shocks.:)

Here's the speed control board for your model:
Frigidaire 134149220 Speed Controller Assembly


When you click the link to the speed control board you will see a video there on how to access it.:)

Jake
 

bengineer

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
12
Location
Nashville
Jake, thank you for your response.

I'll double check high speed spin in an empty machine. With a normal load, it does bang around a good bit, and I was thinking it was a shock thing and it was contributing to the difficulty in getting the load distributed evenly for the high speed spin. And my wife said it has started to bang a lot and move across the floor.

The shocks are already on order from you.

When the shocks come in I'll take a look at all this and the speed control board at once and report back.

Have a great evening,

Ben
 

bengineer

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
12
Location
Nashville
Hi Jake, thank you again!

With no clothes, washer runs very smooth- no banging around at all, no unknown noises, but I don't think we have high speed spin. If there were a way to get you a quick video of the final spin speed I could provide that. Removing clothes after final spin do not seem to have as much water wrung out of them as they used to.

Washer tub will move around a good bit with a load of clothes . The banging occurs when washer is trying to distribute clothes in the tub for the spin cycle. Banging is worst when ramping up to speed and when coming down from speed.

I'm thinking that worn shocks might be hindering good clothes distribution, and contributing to the excessive banging. Lack of final high speed spin is another issue to troubleshoot.

Am I correct in this line of thinking?

Thank you again,

Ben
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
116,020
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Look at these threads Ben:

FIXED: Kenmore 417 washer - banging noise during high speed spin

Also read this one, I almost forgot about the door latch switch that may be causing it too: [FIXED] Kenmore 417.29042992 won't spin dry

Its possibly the door latch/lock assembly thats bad: [FIXED] Frigidaire Gallery Front Loader Washers - NO HIGH SPEED SPIN - READ THIS FIRST!!

I located a video, but its for the Kenmore 110 which is made by Whirlpool, but they both spin up to HIGH SPEED SPIN the same way. You can hear when it really starts going into HIGH SPEED SPIN towards the end of the video. On his it was a spider support arm problem: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/50355-Noise-at-high-speed-spin

[video=youtube;ufE8JKRZJKI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufE8JKRZJKI[/video]

Jake
 

bengineer

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
12
Location
Nashville
Jake- In your opinion, what is the best way to tackle this? The banging I'm referring to is the excessive movement of the tub when it's distributing the load at the beginning of the spin cycle, I don't think it's happening during fast spin, but I'll have to fix the fast spin cycle to know for sure ; )

Main problem is how to fix fast spin. You've mentioned checking motor winding resistance, reseating speed control board connections, and replacing the door latch. Would you have a priority of these or other items? Not to sound too lazy, but the machine is stacked and in a tight location. Would be difficult to access speed control board connections easily. I think I can get to the motor plug from underneath. Also, is there a test jack to measure the door like is mentioned in the threads about the door latch assembly?

Thank you again,

Ben
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
116,020
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok Ben,

Yes, lets first replace the shocks and then run a test with no clothes and see if it kicks into high spin before we do anything else.:)

I don't know if this model has the test plug, you will see it on the door latch switch wiring harness if it does.

Here's the shock kit for this model(Video Included in Part link):
Frigidaire 5304485917 Shock Absorber Kit


Jake
 

bengineer

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
12
Location
Nashville
Hi Jake, the old shocks were totally shot, the new ones helped tremendously. I'm still not certain we're up to full speed on final spin, and it bangs a bit while at a faster spin speed, but I'm watching it. It definitely balances the load a lot better for the spin cycle.

Two remaining questions- 1, the Door Latch light works correctly, but the Final Spin light is always on as long as the washer is running. The Rinse and Wash lights do not work at all. I don't mind a burned out light, but is the fact that the Final Spin light is always lit a problem?

2, I bought a door latch assembly as well thinking about the final spin problem, but cannot figure out how to take the rubber gasket out. Suggestions?

Many thanks,

ben
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
116,020
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok Ben,

On these older models that door boot seal is glued in place, so what I do is take the top off then put your arm down into the front inside panel and you will be able to reach it with your hand.

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 
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