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Kenmore 790.31043802 oven not heating

resneault

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2022
Messages
2
Location
Metairie
Model Number
790.31043802
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
I have a Kenmore range that the oven stopped lighting a few weeks back. Broiler and range burners are fine. I suspect the igniter. Went ahead and tried to gain access to the igniter by removing the deflector. The assembly is partially set back inside a lower shield which I attempted to remove. After some struggling I realized I was moving the actual burner assembly around more than I was comfortable with. I decided to remove the lower drawer to see what I could access there. It appears the connector for the igniter is down there, although still can't get to the screws that hold it to the burner. Of bigger concern was noticing that the burner pipe coming down to the gas valve is simply floating on there. That is, no firm or threaded connection. Is this normal? I'm concerned I busted something while trying to access from above. I don't mind swapping an igniter out, but I'm not comfortable playing with gas.
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
130,254
Location
Redmond, Oregon
The burner is mounted properly per your first photo. In the 2nd photo that's normal.:)

When you first turn the oven on, time how long it takes till you hear the gas/flame come on?

What I do is open the oven door first, then turn the oven on, then you should see your glow bar igniter thats located in the bottom of your oven(under the bottom oven panel) glow ORANGE then the gas/flame should come on within 45 to 60 seconds.

45 seconds in the normal average.

If it takes longer than 60 seconds, then it would be your oven igniter glow bar thats the culprit.

Here's the oven glow bar igniter for your model:
318177710 Igniter


Jake
 

resneault

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2022
Messages
2
Location
Metairie
The igniter glows, maybe a little dimly, but the gas never turns on. Again, broiler and stove work fine.

The challenge is getting to the screws on the igniter bracket. They are both set back into that recess in the lower panel. That's what I was removing when I got concerned about all the movement in the burner itself. It seems like I have to remove that screw on the left and slide the whole burner assembly forward.

Which is the area of concern. The lower end of that pipe just rests over the gas valve? No seal, no type of mechanical connection?

Also, I've sourced the igniter at a local parts shop which has always been reliable, but it is wayyyy cheaper. Just need the ceramic wire nuts to reconnect. Any thoughts on this...idealappliance.com/parts/19927862

Thanks for the help.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
130,254
Location
Redmond, Oregon
The challenge is getting to the screws on the igniter bracket. They are both set back into that recess in the lower panel. That's what I was removing when I got concerned about all the movement in the burner itself. It seems like I have to remove that screw on the left and slide the whole burner assembly forward.
Its very easy, just watch the video.:)


Which is the area of concern. The lower end of that pipe just rests over the gas valve? No seal, no type of mechanical connection?
That's how they are, no worries.

Also, I've sourced the igniter at a local parts shop which has always been reliable, but it is wayyyy cheaper. Just need the ceramic wire nuts to reconnect. Any thoughts on this...idealappliance.com/parts/19927862
That one is a aftermarket part, its not wise to use aftermarket parts, they do not work properly and if they work at all, they will not work that long as all.

Jake
 
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