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Kenmore 790.95423301 "popped" near control tower/panel, electric shut off

manfrotto

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
9
Location
Teaneck, NJ
Model Number
790.95423301
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
Thanks in advance. I've been reading through this forum, and you guys are awesome!

My wife was cooking on the two front burners: 1 had been on for slow-cooking for 6+ hours, 1 was on for about 15 minutes. There was a very loud pop noise (I heard it from another room) that came from near the center of the control panel/tower area. The breaker immediately tripped and turned off power to the range.

Can someone offer advice as to trouble-shooting and/or preliminary analysis before I make the decision as to repair or buy a new one?

I lifted the top and inspected the burner elements from below, without removing them. The parts of the burner elements, including wiring harnesses, etc. DO NOT appear to have any burning/scorching damage.
 

manfrotto

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
9
Location
Teaneck, NJ
Oops. Forgot to also state that there was a slight whiff of electrical-burnt smoke immediately after the pop.
 

manfrotto

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
9
Location
Teaneck, NJ
Hi Jeff1,

Thanks for the reply. Can you advise if this part 5303935086 is the one.

Also, would something like this switch "letting go" cause potential damage elsewhere I should check for?

Thanks in advance!

Tony (Manfrotto)
 

Monkey Wrench

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
16
Location
Portland Oregon
Hi Tony,
Diagnosis needs to be narrowed down to determine exactly what happened, and what needs to be replaced...
Does the Circuit Breaker still restore power to the Range? Or does it turn off immediately once more?
If it does restore power; what functions on the Range still work? (Or rather- What functions have failed?)
If it is a single Burner that no longer functions, it may require a specific Surface Switch depending on the Burner.
If nothing functions... there are bigger problems.

Monkey Wrench
 

manfrotto

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
9
Location
Teaneck, NJ
Hi Tony,
Diagnosis needs to be narrowed down to determine exactly what happened, and what needs to be replaced...
Does the Circuit Breaker still restore power to the Range? Or does it turn off immediately once more?
If it does restore power; what functions on the Range still work? (Or rather- What functions have failed?)
If it is a single Burner that no longer functions, it may require a specific Surface Switch depending on the Burner.
If nothing functions... there are bigger problems.

Monkey Wrench
Okay, I feel kinda dumb. Hah! Didn't have the time this weekend to fully diagnose this in detail since weekends usually are crazed, but I've devoted time tonight to do this. Will come back this evening with the results of those tests. Thanks Monkey Wrench for that sequence of tests. I've done trouble-shooting and fixed other household things like baseboard heaters, thermostats, but this is the first time with the electric range. Definitely appreciating the help.

Tony
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,765
Location
Ontario, Canada

manfrotto

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
9
Location
Teaneck, NJ
I tried all the burners yesterday. All of them turn on and are operational. I varied the temperatures for each of the burners in order to make sure the limiters were also working properly, cycling the burners on-and-off, especially the 2 front ones which were in use at the time when the loud pop happened last week. All seems operational.

One odd thing was that on the front right radiant surface element, one wire from the control panel to the element was wedged between the burner coil tray (is that made of clay or ceramic?) and the underside of the cooktop surface. I freed that wire, and re-operated the burners again. Everything seems operational.

What happened with that loud pop that caused the range to shut off and trip the breaker? Could it be that there's now nothing wrong? Anything else I should be checking?
 

Monkey Wrench

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
16
Location
Portland Oregon
Sounds odd that nothing would be visually damaged... although I think you may have found issue. If the wire you mentioned had been in contact with the element tray for a prolonged cooking time it might be possible that it softened the sheathing and shorted to ground on the metal body of the tray. Is there any damage to the sheathing? Is the wire stiff or brittle now? As for other issues or areas that may have caused the event- do the oven elements still properly function?
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,765
Location
Ontario, Canada
Could it be that there's now nothing wrong?
Probably not...things that go away on their own often come back to haunt us!

One odd thing was that on the front right radiant surface element, one wire from the control panel to the element was wedged between the burner coil tray (is that made of clay or ceramic?) and the underside of the cooktop surface. I freed that wire, and re-operated the burners again. Everything seems operational.
Gotta wonder about that being your issue.

jeff.
 

manfrotto

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
9
Location
Teaneck, NJ
Things getting interesting or complicated!

Sounds odd that nothing would be visually damaged... although I think you may have found issue. If the wire you mentioned had been in contact with the element tray for a prolonged cooking time it might be possible that it softened the sheathing and shorted to ground on the metal body of the tray. Is there any damage to the sheathing? Is the wire stiff or brittle now? As for other issues or areas that may have caused the event- do the oven elements still properly function?
The wire from the control panel to that burner was originally an orange color, the part where it was snagged between the burner tray and the underside of the cooking surface is white and a bit flaky. I should probably replace that wire. Any ideas as to where I can get just the wire?

Probably not...things that go away on their own often come back to haunt us! Gotta wonder about that being your issue.

jeff.
Exactly, I'm definitely afraid of that.

We switched the range back on for only half a day, using only 3 burners and not the one with the flaky wire. With the burners off but cooktop surface still hot (based on the warning light), we heard another POP coming from probably the middle of the cooktop surface. Again, there was a very slight puff of smoke from the vented slit just below the control panel. I'm completely lost as to how to be diagnose this.
 

Monkey Wrench

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
16
Location
Portland Oregon
At this point, I would consider replacing the Range altogether...
My first concern is that none of the wires should have been in contact with any of the heated components. They should have been routed through metal wire hoops under the cook top that would have kept them safely out of harms way. Secondly, the damaged wire is not something you should simply replace with standard plastic sheathed wire. It is possible to remove the damage wire to have an appliance repair shop replace/rebuild for you (new length with new female contacts), but if additional electrical issues are continuing to surface with each use, it makes me wonder what happened to cause the wiring to become displaced to begin with? As well, one has to wonder what else is now going wrong... unless you are familiar with electrical systems I do not recommend getting involved with these types of repairs.
If the Range is worth keeping (overall good condition- other than being a fire hazard), perhaps it is time to take it to a repair shop? Or consider replacing it....
 

manfrotto

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
9
Location
Teaneck, NJ
At this point, I would consider replacing the Range altogether...
My first concern is that none of the wires should have been in contact with any of the heated components. They should have been routed through metal wire hoops under the cook top that would have kept them safely out of harms way. Secondly, the damaged wire is not something you should simply replace with standard plastic sheathed wire. It is possible to remove the damage wire to have an appliance repair shop replace/rebuild for you (new length with new female contacts), but if additional electrical issues are continuing to surface with each use, it makes me wonder what happened to cause the wiring to become displaced to begin with? As well, one has to wonder what else is now going wrong... unless you are familiar with electrical systems I do not recommend getting involved with these types of repairs.
If the Range is worth keeping (overall good condition- other than being a fire hazard), perhaps it is time to take it to a repair shop? Or consider replacing it....
I was really leaning towards "throwing in the towel" and getting a new range, but was hoping/thought that you guys would convince me otherwise and/or would have a further idea on troubleshooting. While I know that the wire is a specialty wire, it's not available to purchase on its own? It can only come with the full heating coil/element assembly? Or, does it even come with that? Granted, that's a heckuva lot to pay (if I got the entire assembly) just for the wire.
 

Monkey Wrench

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
16
Location
Portland Oregon
The wire would only come with a complete wire harness for that section of the appliance. You cannot order just the singe wire, and it would not come with the heating element. Besides, replacing that aspect of the issue(s) ignores that other things are now going haywire? (no pun intended)
Sorry for the expensive advisement Tony, but on the other hand... you would get a brand new Range, no? Wife would be happy, and your house safe! Honestly, that is the safe bet here, short of having a potentially expensive hands-on service call for what is already an older Range.

Monkey Wrench
 

manfrotto

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
9
Location
Teaneck, NJ
Bought a replacement range!

The wire would only come with a complete wire harness for that section of the appliance. You cannot order just the singe wire, and it would not come with the heating element. Besides, replacing that aspect of the issue(s) ignores that other things are now going haywire? (no pun intended)
Sorry for the expensive advisement Tony, but on the other hand... you would get a brand new Range, no? Wife would be happy, and your house safe! Honestly, that is the safe bet here, short of having a potentially expensive hands-on service call for what is already an older Range.

Monkey Wrench
Thanks for taking the time to walk this through with me. I know that this wasn't the most direct or simple issue. I went ahead and purchased a replacement, an LG LRE3021ST. LG ranges are not listed in this forum: is there a reason why?

I actually have a simple (I hope installation question). If I should start a new thread, please let me know. Now somewhat paranoid about appliance set-up, I snuck a peak at the terminal box (the power cord, not included in the product, was installed by the big-box store prior to delivery), and I noticed there's paper material (like manila folder) inside the terminal box. Is paper material unsafe in a spot like that? I just found it odd.

15450920439_1e00255837_z.jpg
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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111,221
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
LG ranges are not listed in this forum: is there a reason why?
Yes, because Jeff, Rick, and myself don't have much experience with foreign ranges like LG and Samsung.:)

We stick with the brands we know the best: Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Frigidaire, Maytag, Amana, Tappen, GE, Roper, Estate, Kenmore 665 models.:)

Jake
 

manfrotto

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
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Location
Teaneck, NJ
Yes, because Jeff, Rick, and myself don't have much experience with foreign ranges like LG and Samsung.:)

We stick with the brands we know the best: Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Frigidaire, Maytag, Amana, Tappen, GE, Roper, Estate, Kenmore 665 models.:)

Jake
And you probably don't want to deal with brands that insert manila folder material into a terminal box, where sparks may happen. Haha. All kidding aside, I do thank you for the tremendous service you guys provide here.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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LOL, and that as well.:)

Jake
 
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