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Kenmore 80 Serires Model 110


Premium Member
Jan 23, 2005
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I have a minor leak. I suspect the water inlet solonoid, etc.

But alls I'm tyring to find out is how to gain access and see inside. I'm assuming the back paneling comes off, but so far, I can't remove it.

Does any have an instruction or diagram that shows how this thing comes apart.

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Model number? (Preferably) Serial number or if not, approximate age? I would guess that you have a direct drive model, in which case you need to open the console (pop off the plastic end caps, undo the screws at either end) and pop out the two big brass-like clips, then the whole cabinet should come off. Bear in mind that if you have automatic dispensers, you will have to disconnect the hoses to them, there should be an access cover under the console.
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Well...I figured it out myself (removing the panel). I still remember days when it was so easy to open up a washer, a 5 year can do it. Now it's just like modern cars - gets more and more complicated - everyone keeps coming with all these fancy ideas of how to fasten things down that limits the workability to only service profesionals.

Anyhow, for those who come across this same difficulty, here a quick overview...

The back panel can be removed! ...and be removed without doing anything fancy. I know at first, it seems impossible, but rest assured it is doable without breaking parts.

The panel basically slides up and outonce all the fastener has been removed. There's6 fasteners that hold this down:

1.) Near the 2 back legs ... there's 2 small screw holding the panel to the frame - 1 at each side near the leg.

2.) At the top corners, there's the same small screws holding it to the control panel housing.

Now for the tricky part...

3.) Towards the top, at the same level as where the control panelseats onthe box, there 2 gold brackets holding the panel (you can see them poking though and latching onto the panel). When you see it, you'll know that sliding the panel up will unhook it from the bracket. BEAWARE, it's touch to remove. You'll need a flat head to push the bracket down as you try to lift the panel up. As you lift the panel, you'll notice it starts to push on the lip of the control panel housing. Try to use the flat to push down on the bracket instead of continuing to force the panel up.

Once you get this bracket unlatched, you've practically removed the panel.

At this point, you can pull the panel away from the unit as much as the attached wiring and components will let you.It easy to find theplastic fasteners to unlatch the wiring, drain hose, etc, from the panel.

Now that you've gotten the panel off, you can begin to detach the control panel housing from the unit (i'll explain why you need to do this later). There's 2 screws holding down the housing - one on each side. It unscrews from the front of the control panel. You'll have to remove the plastic corners of the housing to see the screw head. You can remove those corners by unlatching it's hooks from the housing from the backside with the panel off (now that the back panel is off).

Removing the control panel housing is needed because this is the only way you'll be able to relatch that bracket to the panel when its time to put it back on. You'll see what I mean when you done this.

If anyone wants more detail on how this is done, reply to this thread or email me dbbyleo@yahoo.com, and if I have time, could provide pictures of the things I'm refering to.

To close, I was getting really frustrated on how Kenmore made this process so complicated. There's no way of telling how this thing comes off without a repair manual (which I don't have) or simply jumping right in and using best judgment. I was lucky, I didn't break anything in the process.I hate how everything is mounted on this cover panel - the water spout, the water inlet, etc. I mighthold this against kenmore and their design team.

Good luck.
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Thanks Mad Mac. Could have used the tip a couple of hours ago. I guess you can revise my instructions be simply popping off the end caps of the control panel housing and be able to get to that bracket from there.

I hadn't done it that way causing I wasn't sure if those corner brackets came off without unlaching them.

So there you go. I guess it can be even easier....

If I had't been so desparate, I could have probably used your tip and made my life a little easier. Oh well.
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Oh one last thing...

About the minor leak....

Did NOT appear to the water inlets. Actually, I could not determine for certain what it was. It seemed to have fixed itself in the process that I was removing the panel.

But if I had to guess, I suspect it was the water spout (you know, where the water pours from into the tub. It make been taken out of place during those unbalanced spin cycles.

I ran a load while the panel was off, and saw no more leak.

And now, doing another load, and still no leak.

Who knows what it was.

Any gander from you guys?

About the model....I bought this in Feb. 2003 (Model# 110.23832100).
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**About the minor leak....

Did NOT appear to the water inlets. Actually, I could not determine for certain what it was. It seemed to have fixed itself in the process that I was removing the panel.**

A fairly quick way to narrow down where to look for a leak, place a sheet of cardboard under the washer ( it should be almost as big as the washer ) and run a short cycle. When the washer is finished, look for the wet spot on the cardboard, this will help point you in what direction to look for where the leak is coming from...front...back...right side...left side.

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It was not hard to see the dripping of water from the framing of the unit ... which was on the rear cross frame. The exact source of the water was difficult to determine, however.

It was certainly inconsistent ... and I do remember the flow of the dripping increased tremendously when the water was flowing into the tub (during initial fill, during rinse, and spins.

Like I said, the spout may have been banged out of place during an unbalanced (violent) spin cycle. It has not leaked since I reasembled it.

As my comment in the other thread about auto shutoff for unbalanced spins (http://applianceblog.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=114&forum_id=2&jump_to=650#p650), this could one result of not having that feature ... and it had nothing to do with "unbreakable" poly baskets.

At any rate, this is a great site. Thanks for making this available. I'm sure to be back.

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