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FIXED Kenmore 90 Series Inner Tub Removal Stuck

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RepairFun

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Messages
4
Location
Florida
Model Number
110.26912690
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
Trying to replace the suspension pads 285744 Have everything removed up to the inner tub. Spanner nut is off, lubrication soaked in. It won't budge. I can lift the entire assembly several inches but it does not move on the shaft. Have tapped with hammer & put flat head in slot on shaft for leverage & get no movement. Also, am able to rotate the tub by hand, drive block moves with tub while shaft is stationary. Any suggestions? Thanks.

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RepairFun

Premium Member
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Dec 28, 2014
Messages
4
Location
Florida
Thanks for the reply. Been rocking it. Unfortunately the shaft moves with the tub when you rock it so it doesn't seem to be doing any good.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Jul 11, 2006
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44,784
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
.... the shaft moves with the tub when you rock it so it doesn't seem to be doing any good.
Nothing should be moving when you rock it. If it does, it shouldn't matter. One person stand on the right side of the machine and one person on the left side of the machine. Both persons grab the top of the inner tub opposite each other. One person push down on the inner tub with some force while the other person pulls up on the inner tub and then alternate.

RepairFun said:
.... put flat head in slot on shaft for leverage & get no movement
There is no slot on any shaft so I'm not sure what you're doing exactly. Maybe if I explain how it's set up it will help you. The inner tub sits on the drive block and is held in place by the spanner nut. The drive block sits on the spin tube. There are two slots in the top of the drive block where the two ears on top of the spin tube fit. This keeps the drive block from slipping on the spin tube. The transmission shaft comes up through the center of the spin tube. When you rock it to get it off the drive block may come out with the inner tub and that's OK.
Drive blk son tb.jpgDrive Block Top View.jpg
 

RepairFun

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Messages
4
Location
Florida
Yeah, the slot is actually in the drive block. I was hoping prying there would help free the tub. The entire spin tube / transmission shaft is what is moving along with the tub when we rock the tub so it does not appear to be helping. It seems I need to keep the shaft from moving when we rock it. Was thinking about putting a block or something under the transmission to keep if from floating / moving when we rock the tub. It is a 1996 model year, so I am just assuming that it is a really tough case.

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RepairFun

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Messages
4
Location
Florida
Success! Put the spanner nut back on & hammered down on it while pulling up on the tub. Thanks for all the suggestions & the diagrams.

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JerryIrons

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2012
Messages
14
Location
wny
Success! Put the spanner nut back on & hammered down on it while pulling up on the tub. Thanks for all the suggestions & the diagrams.

Just wanted to add my experience to this thread in case it helps anyone else out. I had a machine never taken apart before with 25 years of corrosion and sludge, was a little sticky to say the least. I used the same trick, put spanner nut back on mostly, and then used a large socket, big enough to hit nut and tall enough to clear the shaft sticking up. If I didn't have that socket a piece of pipe would have worked. Lifting up on tub and hammering with a dead blow hammer worked just took a few hits lol. Be careful you don't damage the porcelain tub.
 

derekkuhl

Member
Joined
May 29, 2016
Messages
1
Location
Bryan, Texas
Sorry to bump this old thread yet again, but I wanted to relate my experience. I had the same situation, a washer that had never been worked on for at least 30 years. The tub started to leak so she had to come apart. Well none of the above solutions did anything. The tub was solid on the shaft. So I built a "tub puller" out of a piece of 2x4 long enough to just fit in the tub under the lip, a T nut and a length of threaded rod. I drilled a hole in the center of the 2x4 and inserted the T nut. I threaded in the rod and inserted the 2x4 in the tub so the threaded rod was bearing on the drive shaft (which I protected with a 3/4 copper pipe end cap). A number of easy turns on the rod and the tub came off nice and slick. As expected, the inside of the tube was filled with dirt and corrosion. Not expected was the near complete degradation of the drive block. It was only the grime that kept that machine running.
If I worked on these daily, I would keep this "tub puller" jig in the truck. It turned a near impossible job into one that was quick easy and gentle.
Happy repairing
Derek
 

kphorme

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2016
Messages
1
Location
United States - California
Same situation in my case: washer over 25 years old and had not been taken apart before. When I was able to get the tub a few inches up on the inner shaft, I then squirted some WD40 down the sides of the shaft, let it work for a few seconds, then the inner tub slid out easily.
 

kaycej0

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
1
Location
Columbus, GA
Hey all!

I know this thread is ancient but it helped me find a solution and I hope that maybe what I did will help someone else who has tried all of the above with no luck.

I have a Kenmore 80 series type 111; probably pretty old going by the amount of rust and grime; and I could NOT get the inner tub out. I oiled and muscled and tried several things but here’s what worked for me: I put the spanner wrench underneath the nut and screwed it on using the wrench from underneath until the wrench was tight between the inner tub and the nut. I then took a large bearing pull centering it on the top of the shaft, the bearing pull arms having something to grab onto thanks to the wrench, and twisted it out with an adjustable wrench on the bearing pull. It came out so easy after fighting with it for hours! Thought I’d share to maybe save someone a bit of the fight.

Kayce Jo
 
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