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FIXED Kenmore dishwasher 665.13273K115 - Fills and drains but doesn't wash. Leak near buzzing pump.

frogdude13

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2020
Messages
20
Location
USA
Model Number
665.13273K115
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
Hello,

My Kenmore 665.13273K115 that's been working well since around late 2013 has stopped working altogether last night. It fills and drains but doesn't wash. As a bonus, in my last couple quick tests I've noticed leaking (the leak probably just got worse).

Probably about two weeks ago, the dishwasher was running VERY loudly. Nothing was blocking movement. Things went back to normal after that cycle and I forgot about it ... Until this morning (DOH!) when we woke to find that our dishes were dirty, still wet, and the detergent was still in the dishwasher.

I pulled it out into the room in case something really obvious stuck out to me. I noticed that after the water fills at the time that washing SHOULD begin, the pump in the photo buzzes while no washing is happening. Water now flows down the wires that are attached next to the pump. A photo (with flash) pointing up into the area the wires come from shows where the water is coming from.

Could the issue be more than just replacing a pump? Is there something else that I should look at? Any advice would be very appreciated!

Thanks,
Chris
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Hi Chris, Sounds like either you have something in your wash motor jamming it up or the wash motor has gone bad.

I always use my multimeter and set it on AC volts and remove the electrical connector to the wash motor and put the multimeter probes in it, if you have 120 volts at the wash motor electrical connector and the wash motor will not run, when it should be running, then its bad.

If your meter leads are too big, use this safety pin trick:
safety pin 500x250.jpg


Look at post #7 here: FIXED 665.13472N411 What to check on why it only washes about 5% of the cycle.
dishwash120volts.jpg


Here's the wash(circulation) motor for your model:
whirlpool-mp-sngl-phase-wpw10510667-ap6022492_01_m.jpg


Jake
 

frogdude13

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
20
Location
USA
Thanks. Could there be a second issue causing the leak?

Also, can the red and blue wires shown in the photo be unplugged and plugged back in? The water was coming from the same plastic piece that the wires are attached through. I didn't want to cause another problem if they shouldn't be removed that way.

EDIT: After looking at the zoomed in photo again, I wonder if it was somehow loosened when I pulled the machine out and needs to be pushed back into place. It didn't move easily when I looked at it over the weekend so I would appreciate feedback before I try forcing it back (since I've been forced to regret that choice in the past).
 
Last edited:

Jake

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That water looked more like condensation, not a dripping leak, did you actually see water dripping?

Also, can the red and blue wires shown in the photo be unplugged and plugged back in?
I'm not sure what you mean.

Jake
 

frogdude13

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Messages
20
Location
USA
Yes, water was running/dripping down the wire red/blue wire in the photo. I didn't find anything else up that high that was wet. The leak seems to be originating around the wires or the seal from plastic piece that they're coming out of.

Will the plastic piece tighten up if I turn in a clockwise direction? I don't want to force the plastic if that's not how it's built although it appears it might be. I wonder if a rubber seal could just be squeezed harder to stop it.
 

Jake

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Will the plastic piece tighten up if I turn in a clockwise direction? I don't want to force the plastic if that's not how it's built although it appears it might be. I wonder if a rubber seal could just be squeezed harder to stop it.
Yes, you can tighten it up and the leak should stop.

At what age do the seals on these machines tend to start going bad?
Usually after 8 to 10 years.

You can go to your local hardware store and pick up a couple of rubber washers and replace them both if you want.

Watch this video:


Of course you'd need to remove the heating element first to replace the rubber washers.


Jake
 

Jake

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By the way, did you replace the wash motor to fix the NO washing issue?

Jake
 

frogdude13

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Messages
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Location
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Hi Jake,

My apologies - I thought I wrote a response to you earlier but must've not submitted it. My time spent fixing appliances shifted to our furnace on Wednesday (ugh!) so I hadn't looked at this again since then... haha.

Good news - the pump motor seems to have fixed the no washing issue. The spray bar was moving a lot of water, more than I remember hearing in a while. There were no dishes when I tested it so the spraying was probably louder because of that too but it was definitely spraying (woohoo). The bad news is that tightening up the plastic piece didn't stop the leaking. I'll probably be at the hardware store this weekend to pick up some washers and get that piece fixed too as you suggested.

Are there other easy to replace washers on this machine that are also generally available at the hardware store? If so, I'd probably try swapping them out at the same time to avoid needing to disconnect/reconnect the machine again soon.

Thanks again for the advice!

Chris
 

Jake

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Excellent Chris, glad to hear the new wash motor fixed it.(y)

The bad news is that tightening up the plastic piece didn't stop the leaking. I'll probably be at the hardware store this weekend to pick up some washers and get that piece fixed too as you suggested.

Are there other easy to replace washers on this machine that are also generally available at the hardware store? If so, I'd probably try swapping them out at the same time to avoid needing to disconnect/reconnect the machine again soon.
No, the only way to replace the heating element washers is to remove the heating element and remove the old washers and install the new washers and reinstall the heating element and tighten those TWO heating element nuts.:)

Jake
 

frogdude13

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The heating element washers were straightforward to replace. I was surprised the heating element could be removed so easily. I was just wondering about other gaskets that might also be easily replaceable with hardware store parts (since I was about to go there anyway ... not a big deal though).

The rubber heating element washers appeared to be in good shape but I tried replacing them anyway in case they were the problem. Unfortunately, Lowes didn't have great options for me and neither did my neighborhood hardware store.

Since the rubber washers appear to be in decent shape, I figured that just clamping them down tighter could be an option to get it fixed. I assumed that the plastic pieces on the bottom of the dishwasher were probably just not pulling it down tight enough anymore and that metal pieces could work better. Next, I bought a couple metal bolts (7/16" x 20), a couple 7/16 washers to make sure I don't hurt the plastic tub with too much pressure on the bolt, and also lock washers to make sure it stays tight. I also flipped the rubber washers over since it would be able to clamp/seal better on each side (same washers as before, just upside down now). After tightening it down, the rubber is bulging away from the edges of the heating element and I don't see how any water could get past it.

SOMEHOW, it's still dripping just as much as before! I have to assume now that the problem is with the heating element which is corroded around the bottom. I didn't think it was that bad though... Maybe there's a small gap between the ceramic and the metal or a small in the metal from corrosion.

Would you recommend replacing the entire heating element or is there another option you would suggest?
 

Jake

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SOMEHOW, it's still dripping just as much as before! I have to assume now that the problem is with the heating element which is corroded around the bottom. I didn't think it was that bad though... Maybe there's a small gap between the ceramic and the metal or a small in the metal from corrosion.

Would you recommend replacing the entire heating element or is there another option you would suggest?
Yes, that's where the leak is coming from then.

Here's the heating element for your model you can order(Video Included):
Heating Element W10518394


Jake
 

frogdude13

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Location
USA
Thank you.

Do you think using metal screws in place of the plastic piece is an issue?

This one looks like it's backordered right now. As I was looking for something available right now, I saw comments for and against using metal. It seems odd to rely on a plastic bolt to hold the seal closed (especially since one side is submerged in water).
 

Jake

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frogdude13

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Ahh. Good catch. I swear when I looked over the weekend it was OOS or delivery estimated sometime in the future, just like this OEM part is everywhere else. The local appliance part store (also part of a large chain) told me there's a nationwide shortage on it.

Two photos are attached. One with the metal nut & washer (typo above - not screw). The other photo shows the same with the original plastic.
 

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Jake

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I see now, no you can't use the metal nuts, it must be the plastic nuts.

When you install the new heating element with should come with 2 new washers, install those, then put your original plastic nuts back in place and tighten them, and it should not leak anymore.:)

Jake
 
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