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FIXED Kenmore Dryer 110.61202013 another intermittent heat problem

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theripster

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Joined
Oct 16, 2007
Messages
587
Location
FT Worth, TX
Model Number
110.61202013
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
Yes, it is another intermittent heating problem, and I am at a total loss. I have cleaned it thoroughly, tested all parts for continuity and found them to all test good. So I sold the dryer to a lady, and three weeks later she said it was not heating. So I gave her another dryer to replace this one and brought this one home to repair.

Yes, I did check her socket to insure she actually had proper voltage, and she did. I went all through this one and could not find a problem. Plugged it in, and it ran fine. I know that sometimes these particular timers have a problem with burned contacts internally.

So I opened it up and looked, and everything appeared to be in good condition. So I re-assembled it and tested it again and it was running fine. I then sold it to another gentleman who picked it up and about two weeks after that he called to say it was no longer heating.

So he brought it back and I gave him another dryer. I once again went all thru it and could not find a problem. It has been sitting since 6 Dec 20. I have decided to get back into this problem and so I tested it, and it is running fine. I am now afraid to sell it again since I have not found the problem. As always, your help is greatly appreciated.
 

rickgburton

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three weeks later she said it was not heating.......... and could not find a problem.
two weeks after that he called to say it was no longer heating.......... went all thru it and could not find a problem.
Intermittent problems are the hardest ones to find. I don't think the cycling thermostat, high limit t-stat or the thermal cut-off can be intermittent that long without failing. That just leaves the motor switch contacts and the moisture board:

whirlpool-cntrl-board-dryer-wpw10476828-ap6022061_01_l.jpg
 

theripster

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I have looked at the moisture board and it looks fine. Nothing appears to be burned. I did unplug it and cleaned the contacts with WD40 then plugged it back in. Not understanding what the motor switch is that you are talking about.
 

rickgburton

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Nothing appears to be burned.
90% of all failed boards show no signs it failed. You should know you can't tell if a part is bad just by looking at it. If it's burned up you can say it's bad. If it's not burned up that doesn't mean it's good. Sometimes you need to use the process of elimination to find a problem.
Not understanding what the motor switch is that you are talking about.
I'm surprised you didn't know this already. On an electric dryer, L2 comes from the power cord to one side of the motor switch. When the motor reaches 70% of its operating speed the centrifugal switch closes the contacts and L2 goes from the other side of the motor/centrifugal switch to the element. This keeps the element from turning on unless the motor is running. If the contacts in the motor switch are burned they may not be making a good contact every time the motor runs.

Face it, the only way you're going to find the problem without replacing any parts is run it. Dry a load of shop rags in it everyday until it stops heating
 

theripster

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Messages
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Location
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I do know that L1 and L2 connect to the motor from opposite sides. What I did not know was the exact relationship to the motor running. I have learned something. So here is my plan. I will get another motor from my supplier, and that will be for me to keep in my shop. I will run it daily as you suggested until it acts up again. At that moment I will change motors and see if the problem is resolved. If it is, I thank you sir. If it is not, then I will assume it is the moisture board which is to expensive. Either way I thank you for the lesson.
 

rickgburton

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I will run it daily as you suggested until it acts up again. At that moment I will change motors
You're doing everything the hard way my friend. Why not take the cover off the motor switch and see if the contacts are burned or have a lot of carbon build up on them. Or, when the dryer stops heating, remove the wire from the element and measure the voltage to ground. If it's 120 VAC the motor switch is good. Your way, wait 2 weeks for the problem to show up, replace the motor and wait another two weeks to see if it stops heating, is going to take you a month or longer to fix or maybe not fix a dryer.

279827 Dryer Drive Motor
 

theripster

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Messages
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FT Worth, TX
Latest update. I have truly learned something this time. I have another motor here that is not the correct one for this particular dryer, but it is in all others ways the same. I opened up the motor switch cover this morning to see how it actually functions. I see all the contacts. I never knew exactly how they functioned, but now I do. Thanks Rick. I will open the one in question when I get a free moment and I'll let you know what I find.
 

theripster

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Latest update. Opened the motor switch and found one set of points is burned. It is connected to one of the copper wires going straight into the motor. This is most likely the problem, and if it isn't, it will be soon. So the motor I have ordered to just keep as a spare will be installed as soon as I get it.
 

theripster

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Sorry it took me so long. New motor installed, and it is once again running like it should be.
"THANKS RICK FOR THE INSTRUCTIONS" I have truly learned something.
 

rickgburton

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