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Kenmore Dryer 110.97272100 No Heat


Premium Member
Jun 15, 2022
Model Number
Sears Kenmore
More than 10 years
Kenmore Dryer 110.97272100

Tested for Continuity:
Thermal Fuse
High Limit Thermostat
Cycling Thermostat

Still Needs tested:
Gas Valve Solenoid?
Flame Sensor?

  1. My Kenmore Dryer (Model #110.97272100) will not heat and the timer will not progress in automatic mode. When in timed mode the timer progresses just fine, but still blows cold air. I ordered a new timer and replaced that part but that did not fix the issue.
  2. I read articles that pointed toward one of the thermostats as the problem. I purchased a new Multimeter and put it in Ohms setting with a beep to indicate continuity. I tested all the easily reachable parts on the back of the dryer with a multimeter for continuity while attached to the dryer. The Thermal fuse, high limit thermostat and cycling thermostat are all fine, showing continuity. Then I read that the parts should not be connected to the dryer to test for continuity. So I went back in and removed all the obvious parts and tested for continuity again while detached from the dryer. All parts are still showing good continuity.
  3. I then took the dryer completely apart, removing the drum so I can access the gas parts. I tested the igniter for continuity. Acceptable range is 50-400 and it read out at 082, a little low, but passing.
  4. While having the drum out I reconnected the front segment of the dryer and turned the dryer on. The igniter glowed for a few seconds, so I opened the door to turn the dryer off.
  5. I reassembled the entire dryer and turned it back on. When observing through the little hole, I could not see the igniter glow anymore. The dryer is still blowing cold air.
  6. What to test next? Solenoids? Flame Sensor? Running out of options.

Any Advice is greatly appreciated! I am thinking of putting in new solenoids next. Or maybe the thermostats and the fuse.


Some helps and tips...



jeff sr.
Hello again! I think I have tracked the issue down to the Radiant Sensor. I removed it from the combustion cove exterior to test for continuity. When testing against the connector tabs it showed no continuity. Touching the frame/bracket of the sensor did show continuity but the tabs did not. Did I find the issue? 🤞
Should I go ahead and replace igniter and coils too after the Radiant sensor while I have it all apart?
I'd try the sensor only.
If you are brave, I use to touch those 2 wires together from the sensor to see if the igniter would come on.....if you wait until the igniter to glow good and bright and then separate those 2 wires the flame should work.

LINK> Gas dryer sensor for igniter and flame

jeff sr.
I am not all that handy and I am not familiar with the “touching two wires together” concept. Have a helpful video link to follow?
I am not all that handy and I am not familiar with the “touching two wires together” concept. Have a helpful video link to follow?

There is none.
It was just a way for me to do what the sensor normally does on it's own.....closed and igniter comes on.....opens up and the flame comes on.

jeff sr.
I replaced the sensor only and the igniter still won’t glow. I am going to replace the coils and igniter too, see if that helps.
Replaced coils and igniter. Still won’t glow. It looks like the radiant sensor wasn’t the problem. Unsure what do do next but check everything for continuity again.
I double checked these parts for continuity:

1. Thermal Fuse
2. High limit thermostat
3. Cycling thermostat
4. Radiant Sensor
5. Coils
6. Igniter

The radiant sensor, coils and igniter are all brand new parts.

The igniter still won’t glow.
By your picture, the flame sensor was definitely bad.

Go back to basics!
Is the dryer set for heat and not on air fluff.
Retest thermal fuse.
Double check ALL wires and wire connections as you have replaced many parts and sometimes accidents happen.
Recheck your meter (put meter leads together) and try the 200 ohm setting instead of the beeping setting.

jeff sr.
These parts are now all new:

1. Thermal Fuse
2. High limit thermostat
3. Cycling thermostat
4. Radiant Sensor
5. Coils
6. Igniter

Igniter will still not glow.
You went back and rechecked every wire you have touched?
Maybe one of your new parts are bad, retest them for sure!
Motor heat switch, timer would be the items left.
Motor heat switch should be terminals 1&2.

jeff sr.
Already switched the timer. That was the first part I swapped out a few weeks ago. I need to test all the dumb wires now. I am super discouraged and ready to give up.
The igniter had no indicator of which side is “up”, so I was just guessing when putting its wires into the molded harness connector. Try switching their orientation? Ugh wires.
The plug on the igniter should only be one way.
Just because a part was switched still doesn't mean that part is ok/good and should be rechecked.

Don't forget the motor heat switch!

jeff sr.

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