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FIXED Kenmore Dryer Model #110.86870800 dead

Tampabay

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
24
Location
Florida
Model Number
110.86870800
After a few cycles recently, my dryer just stopped working. I didn't hear or smell anything unusual. After reading the posts, I cleaned out the vent (which wasn't bad at all), then ordered and replaced the thermal fuse. When I replaced it, the dryer ran for about 20 minutes and then shut down again. I purchased a multimeter and checked out my connections. The high limit thermostat, cutoff thermal fuse and cycling thermostat all have continuity but the pre-heater assembly on the cycling thermostat does not. I ordered that part yesterday (along with another thermal fuse) but wanted to check with you to see if you think that I've narrowed it down correctly. In other words, would a bad pre-heater assembly blow the thermal fuse? Could there be something else that I've not considered? Thanks so much, this site is remarkable!
 
Pre-heater? You just should have a normal heating element, and when you ohm that for continuity it should ohm out at between 11-30 ohms.

Here's the heating element for your model:
Heating Element Assembly WP4391960 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com



Now the high-limit thermostat should read 0 ohms.

Here's the high-limit thermostat for your model:
High Limit Thermostat WP3390291 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com


Jake
 
Thanks Jake, but I think I was unclear in what I was trying to say. The "pre-heater assembly" that I'm talking about is shown in the attachment.

It is part WP61894 from RepairClinic.com.

The continuity for this part is between 10 and 20 ohms (the meter bounces around when I hold it to the pins). The high limit thermostat reads 0 ohms as it should and so does the cycling thermostat. Do you think that the #61894 part is my problem?

Shouldn't it also get a reading of 0 ohms? Thanks again!
 
No, its rare that would cause it not to heat properly. Did you test your main heater element I posted above itself first? Unplug your dryer first before ohm testing.

Jake
 
Heater Element

I just checked the heater element and it reads 0 ohms. Any other ideas? Thanks again.
 
Thats odd, not sure whats going on then, you may have a short somewhere in the wiring harness that you'd need a Sears tech. come out to your house to diagnose and try to locate it, it can get very tedious to try to find on your own.

Jake
 
Glad to help, One other thing that I've seen happen before that may be happening on yours is possibly one of the terminal block wires have burned/arc and come loose, and that would cause a loss of power for either the motor or heater.

I'd check that as well, Just unplug your dryer and open the little cover sheild in the back of your dryer where your power cord connects to it and check to make sure the wires on that terminal block are all tight and secure.

Here's a photo of it:
(click to enlarge)
IMG_1108.jpg

In this photo of the terminal block, see the middle terminal where you have the white and green wire there? The white wire should be there only, the green wire is your ground wire and it should attach to the other green wire on the cabinet with that existing green wire.

Jake
 
Thanks again

Thanks again, Jake. I checked the terminal block and all of the wires are secure. I have checked all of the thermostats and the heating element for continuity (also checked heating element for short to ground and it's fine).

I ran a cycle this afternoon bypassing the thermal fuse and without the vent hose attached (and stayed close by in case of fire) and found that the dryer is running very hot. Even when I lowered it to the lowest setting, it was running upwards of 190 degrees. Does that still indicate to you that it's likely a short in the wiring harness? Thanks!
 
That tells me your cycling thermostat is bad.

You will need to order this part (comes with instructions):
WP694674 Adjustable Dryer Cycling Thermostat


It mounts on your blower wheel housing in the back of your dryer to replace your original cycling thermostat Part#694674.

Order this thermostat as well too, it goes with it:
WP61894 Thermostat


Oh wait, thats what you were calling the pre-heater, you already got a new one right? If yes, then just get the cycling thermostat just above this one.

Jake
 
Great

Thanks Jake, I just ordered the part and will let you know if it solves my problem. I really appreciate your help!
 
Glad to help Tampabay, yes please keep us posted.

Jake
 
Thermal Fuse

Hi again, Jake. I replaced the cycling thermostat and ran the dryer bypassing the thermal fuse to check it's temperature. It is running much cooler than it was before and I feel that this was the problem, however when I reattached the thermal fuse, it blew immediately. I'm wondering if I hooked up the wires to the wrong terminals because the dryer didn't even turn on at all. Would that blow the fuse? Thanks again!
 
Yes, sounds like you hooked up the wires wrong to it, because it shouldn't just blow like that immediately.

Jake
 
Since this was my first time at dryer repair, I should have ordered a gross of thermal fuses initially! LOL When I get the new fuse, I'll let you know if we've nailed it and I think we/YOU have. :)
 
FIXED! Thank you so much, Jake and Applianceblog.

Although it took some back and forth, the bottom line is that a new thermal fuse and cycling thermostat did the trick. This is really an easy fix folks (I'm a 55-year old woman who has never tried to fix an appliance before), so I recommend that you do it yourself rather than spend $80+ for a technician. This is a fabulous site and I'm amazed at how much I've learned here. Economic times are tough right now and it's wonderful to find this great resource and be able to save some $$$. Thanks again, Jake and best regards to you! :D
 
Thanks Tampabay for the nice comments and the inspiration your giving others.:)

Glad you got it fixed and its working good again.:)

Jake
 

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