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FIXED Kenmore Electric Dryer 110.6072010 won't heat

Brett Anderson

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2013
Messages
57
Location
Tacoma, Washington, United States
Model Number
110.6072010
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
I have replaced the Element, Thermal Fuse, Thermostat, High Limit Tstat. Can't get the element to fire. Blower and motor working fine. Dryer not obstructed in any way (on test bench). Have 120v to each side of the element. Suspected switch. Opened switch and found only minor char on one contact. Filed it clean. Still no heat. I DID have the element fire one time but after I ended the cycle, I cannot get it to fire in any switch position again. Any idea what I might try from here? Trying to fix for a low income family.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,664
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Have 120v to each side of the element
No you don't. How are you measuring the voltage? What voltage do you have between the two element wires? I suspect it's 0V. First measure the voltage at the power cord connection between the black wires and the red wires. If the voltage is 220 VAC, disconnect the two element wires from the element and measure the voltage from each wire to cabinet ground. One will have 120 VAC and one will have 0V. My guess is the wire from the timer and t-stats will have 120V and the other wire will have 0V. L2 (red wire) goes from the power cord terminal block to the one side of the motor switch and from the other side of the motor switch to the element. The motor switch closes when the motor is running. I believe this is where the problem is:
 

Brett Anderson

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2013
Messages
57
Location
Tacoma, Washington, United States
Thank you for the step by step assistance - here's the result:
Yes - 0v between the two element leads.
Yes I got 120v on one of the wires but I believe that it may be the opposite of what you suspected.
The thick red wire that comes from the operating t-stat (3387134) has 0v and the other thick red wire that dives under the bottom of the rear panel (presumably from the motor) shows 120v.
If I put the element back in the loop, I have 120v from chassis to Red wire on each of the two element leads.. I also double-checked to make sure I have continuity across the high temp t-stat. now I'm really scratching my head.....thoughts?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,664
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
OK, Set the timer on timed dry (about 40 minutes) and unplug the machine. Check for continuity between the black wire and the red wire on the timer. Remove at least one of the wires from the timer.
 

Brett Anderson

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2013
Messages
57
Location
Tacoma, Washington, United States
Apologies in advance for my ignorance:
I pulled the plug off of the back of the timer as the wires would not pull free. I tested between the switch's blade for black to the blade for red. No continuity. I held the test leads there while spinning the timer 360 degrees - no change. I also tested inside the removed plug from black to red and no continuity. Really not sure what I'm looking for here but its more important that you do I guess. Was my testing meaningful?
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,664
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,664
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
I use to rebuild those style timers all the time. Usually the points were too burned to file or clean so I started saving them.
Picture 22.jpg
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