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FIXED Kenmore Elite 665.14752N510 error cycle F8E4 not completing

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gpin

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2021
Messages
6
Location
RCSD
Model Number
665.14752N510
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
Hello. I'm hoping someone can give further guidance.

Model is a Kenmore Elite 665.14752N510 made late 2016, early 2017.

The dishwasher will run for 5-6 minutes then stop, no beeps, no lights, nothing, just stops. When opening, there is water in the tub, but hitting cancel and closing the door it drains correctly.

Running diagnostics, error code is F8E4 – FLOW METER FAULT. The float moves freely and pulling the float switch out and testing for continuity with ohm meter it works correctly. Closed initially, pushing button down it opens. So don't believe it's the issue.

Have read that there is a door vent assembly that can cause this, but this model does not have that vent assembly in the door. I see where it would mount and the vent on the side of the door cover, but it is not there.

At this point it seems like it's the control board. However before purchasing a non-returnable expensive control board, I wanted to ask here to see if I was missing something or should test anything else first. Any other suggestions to check or can someone confirm the diagnostic?

Also, the control board is labeled as revision B. A few of the online control board pictures for sale show revision A. In finding a replacement, does it matter which revision?

Thanks.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
122,536
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Your tech. data sheet says F8E4 is a Draining problem--->Drain Motor Electrical Problem

If it drains fine when you cancel the cycle, then its possibly a bad control board.

Disconnect power to the dishwasher, then open the console and check the control board for burnt spots on it. You will need to remove the plastic housing from the control board, that plastic housing just unsnaps off, then you can remove the control board and view it for burnt spots on it.

Here's the control board for your model: W10866112

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

Jake
 

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  • Tech+Sheet+-+W10750900+-+Rev+C.pdf
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gpin

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2021
Messages
6
Location
RCSD
Received a replacement board but was sent the wrong so cannot report if the board is the fix/issue here or not yet.

Since I was in the door took some pictures, looking at my current board there is no visible signs of damage or burning on the board I can see. +
dw-board-front.jpg

dw-board-back.jpg

I did noticed about 2" down the heater/main loom appears to have gotten hot enough to be melted into the hard insulation on the door. The wires and insulation appear ok, but seems odd it would get hot in that spot unless it was from the interior heat (providing the softening) and the tension in the wires (providing the indentation). Thoughts? Anything to be concerned with?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,536
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I did noticed about 2" down the heater/main loom appears to have gotten hot enough to be melted into the hard insulation on the door. The wires and insulation appear ok, but seems odd it would get hot in that spot unless it was from the interior heat (providing the softening) and the tension in the wires (providing the indentation). Thoughts? Anything to be concerned with?
No, I see that happen a lot, the wiring is fine.

Jake
 

gpin

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2021
Messages
6
Location
RCSD
Finally got the correct and brand new genuine whirlpool control board installed but no joy. Same F8E4 error post diagnostic run and stops before completing entire cycle. There is water in the basin when the cycle stops. Using cancel/drain and closing the door, it drains all water from the basin. Any suggestions at this point or should I be thinking about a replacement? Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,536
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Its possibly your drain pump then itself, if the drain pump doesn't kick in at all in the FINAL DRAIN.

I would take a volt reading at the pump electrical terminals, to see if its getting 120 volts when the control board tells the drain pump to come on and drain, in the FINAL DRAIN.

You will need a multimeter.

Here's the drain pump for your model:
Drain Pump WPW10531320


Jake
 

gpin

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2021
Messages
6
Location
RCSD
Wanted to follow-up here as I did get this fixed.

Upon removing the old drain pump, to install the new one, I found a few silicon feet pad cushion things (yes, believe that is the technical term for them :)) that had come off a new pan. These had made there way into the drain pump rotor housing - past the screen and filter. I had checked the lines and filter prior to this thread, but didn't go deep enough. Also, the wife forgot to mention that some of the feet pad cushion things were found in the basin area prior but didn't realize some were still missing.

In the end, the control board and drain pump were ok and it was a flow issue. It is odd it failed during the cycle but did drain post-cycle ok. After clearing the silicon feet pad cushion things the drain pump was much quieter than it had been. I thought the noise was due to the open panels but it was a clue about debris in the housing.

Jake, thanks for your suggestions and time. Hope this thread may help others at some point as well.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,536
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent, glad that was all it was.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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