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FIXED Kenmore Elite 790.42800501 Error Code 30

zborgerd

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Illinois
Model Number
790.42800501
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
Hello,

Thanks for all of the excellent information on this message board. It really helped me to diagnose and solve a problem with my Kenmore oven.

However, I also have a problem with my induction range.

In the process of repairing my oven, I also shut off the breaker to my cooktop. Any time I bring the power back on, it beeps repeatedly with an error code of "30" and never stops. This happened a week ago and I was able to resolve it by quickly tripping the breaker off and back on to reset the computer, but it doesn't seem to help now.

I have checked the jumper terminals.

Terminal 1/2 (BLK) to 6 (GND) is 125V AC. Terminal 4/5 (RED) to 6 (GND) is also 125V AC. Voltage within the two power terminals is 250V AC.

This would seem to me to be within normal tolerances, but what do I know? Maybe it's just high enough to freak out the range.

Service data sheet (same as paper copy) under the cooktop:

ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Lassomption/318200250.pdf

Makes me really afraid that I am going to have to replace the filter circuit board. It's insanely expensive, all things considered.

Any ideas?
 
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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
110,988
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, I looked up the parts for your unit, and those electronic parts are extremely expensive.

I haven't seen or worked on this model before, so I would rather not speculate what could be bad.

Hopefully another tech. or member thats seen this issue before can shed some light on whats going on here, or you'll need to contact Sears to come out.

Jake
 

zborgerd

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Illinois
Thanks Jake. I appreciate the response.

Voltage to my home is occasionally getting into the area of 127V. I'm really afraid to just call someone from Sears out based upon that alone. That doesn't mean that there isn't something wrong with the cooktop, but I'm almost thinking that I should at least try to get the electric company to look into getting back down into something closer to 120V. 127V is right at the edge of their tolerances though, so I am not sure how tough it's going to be to get them to look into it.

By the way. I did call Sears, and their hourly rate is high enough that it might just be worthwhile to replace the part anyway and give it a shot. Sears parts has the filter board at 1/2 of the price of what I've seen elsewhere. The cooktop is a pain to crack open though.
 
Last edited:

Jake

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Yes, normal voltage should be between 110-120 volts, it shouldn't be that far over 120 volts.

Contact the electric company tomorrow first.

Jake
 

inspire

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
2
Location
Vancouver
I have the same stove and the same problem right now, its 5 months out of warranty and sears and electrolux is refusing to warranty the repair.

It has nothing to do with the voltage. This stove is just a piece of crap.

I had it serviced once under warranty where the main touch panel was not working correctly. It took them about a month to find the parts to replace.

That was a year ago.

A few weeks ago my mom hit the timer button on the display and it made a pop sound and killed the induction cook top. Same error code 35. Had Sears service come in to do a look and a filter board circuit had blown, you can see a burn mark on the circuit board. They estimated about $1700 to replace the touch display (centre one only) and the filter board. And there would still be no guarantee to the repair, they said they have to start there and could be more parts.

My oven still worked at the time, but last week, the oven made an error code as well. And now I have a shot cook top and oven.

This has nothing to do with the voltage as I have had previous stoves in the past on the same outlet never with a problem. If this range cannot handle the tolerance of the variance of voltage it is the Range's fault and not your power source.

Since then I have filed complaints with their customer service, spoke to my sales rep, spoke to the store manager, they all refused to assist. The rep in my area has offered to order and provide parts for it, but that was when it was just the induction cook top, now its the oven as well. This stove isn't worth salvaging by repairs as who knows what trouble is to come.

I just filed a complaint with Better Business Bureau against Sears Canada. I'm hoping they will take my old stove back and give me this years model of the same and I'll buy the 5 year warranty this time.

So the problem originates from the centre touch panel then causes the filter board and other problems, I wouldn't bother trying to repair it yourself, but to have someone gurantee a fix for a reasonable set price. Or file a BBB complaint as this is not just a rare problem, its a common problem as I am experiencing the same thing.
 
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zborgerd

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Illinois
Thanks for the info. However, mine is error code "30", not "35". However, they are both similar errors that are related to the power supply (the "filter").

After monitoring the voltages in my house for a day, I was able to get the cooktop to power on when the voltages appeared to be more stable at 124V (120V) under load.

That does not mean that there isn't indeed a problem though. I'm going to keep an eye on it and replace the filter circuit board if it continues to be troublesome.

This current model of cooktop has had several parts that have been revised by Electrolux over the past two years. This would lead me to believe that you are right in the fact that it has several problems that might need to be addressed.

With the problems I've had with Sears customer support though, I won't buy their products anymore (especially if it is made by Electrolux). Sears support line is terrible and they can't seem to manage to look up warranty information effectively (which seems to be deliberate).
 

inspire

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Feb 12, 2011
Messages
2
Location
Vancouver
Actually just got back from Sears, after talking to my Sales Rep. Coincidently I knew the store manager. I've fought with customer servicehead office for the longest time they never budged. So finally the store manager offered a return for credit with 20% restock. So I just bought this years version of the Kenmore Elite induction cook top. Paid the $500+ in difference and this time bought the $290 warranty.

Ended up spending almost $900 but what can I do. No hassel, swap for a new one, rather than wait for repair and hope it gets fixed.
 

zborgerd

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Illinois
Which cooktop did you get? Is it the same model? The 4280 has had (I think) 2-3 revisions since its release and they are still selling it.
 

zborgerd

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Illinois
Revisiting this issue again. Things had been working for 5 months and now we had a storm that knocked the power out.

Has anyone seen this problem before? I am thinking that the filter board needs to be replaced. Maybe someone who has worked on one of these can provide some insight?

Thanks.
 

zborgerd

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Illinois
I opened up the cooktop. Lots of screws, but otherwise pretty simple. Got to be careful of induction elements since they are quite delicate. Lots of really high voltage caps in there too (on the filter board).

I just ordered a replacement filter:
It's essentially a power supply and control board in a single unit.) I think that it will fix the problem.

I'll post my results for others in case they encounter this problem. I've seen a few posts on the web regarding this issue, but nothing conclusive.
 

Jake

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Yes, this is unfamiliar to me as well.

Keep us posted.

Jake
 

zborgerd

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Jan 29, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Illinois
Jake,

I replaced the filter board and the problem is resolved. One thing that I tried to do is make a good record of is the orientation of the induction coils (I put a label pointing to the up position on the thermistors, and also noted which one went in the right location) so that it would be pretty easy to reinstall them.

Aside from all of the screws, it was a pretty easy process. I fired everything up and ran some water boiling tests and each one boiled within around 90s, so I'm pretty happy. I won't be cooking on the electric griddle again tonight.

There were clearly some differences in this replacement part in the addition of several large diodes and a other components that clearly didn't exist on the old board. Leads me to believe that there could have been defects that they've fixed with newer board revs. This board is used in several Electrolux and Kenmore cooktops (among others), so it's probably not limited to just this model. New board also shipped with an assortment of new ground wires that differ than that of the original board.

Thanks again for providing this site. It has a lot of useful information and I hope that someone else may find this post helpful if they encounter the same problem.
 

Jake

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Excellent, good job.:)

Thanks for suppling the added information to help others that may have this issue as well.:)

Jake
 

zborgerd

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Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Illinois
Well, it seems to have failed again after just about 1 year. My wife was using it and we heard a loud *pop* from the cooktop. Upon bootup, now I get an error code "35, low voltage" instead of "30, high voltage". Sounded like a cap burst.

Looks like I will be replacing it again.

This cooktop is a dud.
 

Jake

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Thats very odd that it did it again.

Jake
 

zborgerd

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Messages
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Location
Illinois
Indeed. I think that this thing is just inherently defective. Other people have reported having to repair it multiple times as well.
 

Jake

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Yes I would agree with you on that.

Jake
 

zborgerd

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Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
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Location
Illinois
IMAG0164.jpg

How is that for a "fuse"? Any idea why it might have blown? Almost looks like it shorted against that inductor.

I have pictures of the whole teardown. Since I've done this twice now, I am getting pretty good at it. If you think it might be useful, I can post them later this weekend.
 

Jake

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No idea unfortunately why that fuse went out.

Like I said in post#2 I haven't seen or worked on this model before, but you can upload all the photos you want to help others if they own this model.

Jake
 

zborgerd

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Illinois
Thanks Jake. On a related note, the tape that is used to keep the wires from moving on the insulation appears to need to be replaced after removal. What do you repair experts normally use? Is it a fiberglass heat resistant tape? Is there one that you can suggest?
 
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