GRUNT82nd
Member
- Model Number
- 795.7205
- Brand
- Sears Kenmore
- Age
- 6-10 years
Hi there!
Ice machine stopped making ice and the 1st thing I did was replace the water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator and nothing. My neighbor has the same refrigerator and his compressor went recently. His ice machine worked up until the compressor stopped, so I took off the Water Inlet valve from the back (pic#3) , water inlet valve on the door(pic#1) as well as the water tank at the door (pic#2). The following tests were run using my parts and my neighbors.
-I ensured the line was properly primed by calling for water at the dispenser and confirmed the tank (2nd pic) was full.
-I removed and tested the Water Inlet Valve on the door using a cheater cord and confirmed the solenoid for the Ice line (orange) opens when power is sent. The solenoid hums and with a pin I felt the plunger retract.
-While removed: I was able to blow air through the "H20 from tank" and air blew out of the Ice side and confirmed there's no blockage in the passage.
-When Installed: I called for ice water by manually pressing the reset button at the icemaker and confirmed it's not going up the line to the tray.
-When Installed I disconnected the ice water line and connected a shorter line to visually confirm whether or not any water was dispensing. I Called for ice water, heard the solenoid working and no water. I called for ice water again, tried sucking on the line like a straw and no water.
Is this some sort of vacuum effect due to the water tank being under pressure and no new water coming in? When the system calls for ice water to the solenoid at the door does it also send power to the water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator (3rd pic) to let in new water and maintain constant pressure?
When the Dispenser solenoid (water only) is called the valve opens and water comes out of the dispenser. This must communicate with the solenoid on the back of the refrigerator to continue the flow of new water, right? If so, is that my problem with the ice water? My next test will be to call for ice water then check the connectors on the back for voltage to see if it's getting power. Should I get 120v from both of the connector pins that connect to Pic#3? Thank you!
Ice machine stopped making ice and the 1st thing I did was replace the water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator and nothing. My neighbor has the same refrigerator and his compressor went recently. His ice machine worked up until the compressor stopped, so I took off the Water Inlet valve from the back (pic#3) , water inlet valve on the door(pic#1) as well as the water tank at the door (pic#2). The following tests were run using my parts and my neighbors.
-I ensured the line was properly primed by calling for water at the dispenser and confirmed the tank (2nd pic) was full.
-I removed and tested the Water Inlet Valve on the door using a cheater cord and confirmed the solenoid for the Ice line (orange) opens when power is sent. The solenoid hums and with a pin I felt the plunger retract.
-While removed: I was able to blow air through the "H20 from tank" and air blew out of the Ice side and confirmed there's no blockage in the passage.
-When Installed: I called for ice water by manually pressing the reset button at the icemaker and confirmed it's not going up the line to the tray.
-When Installed I disconnected the ice water line and connected a shorter line to visually confirm whether or not any water was dispensing. I Called for ice water, heard the solenoid working and no water. I called for ice water again, tried sucking on the line like a straw and no water.
Is this some sort of vacuum effect due to the water tank being under pressure and no new water coming in? When the system calls for ice water to the solenoid at the door does it also send power to the water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator (3rd pic) to let in new water and maintain constant pressure?
When the Dispenser solenoid (water only) is called the valve opens and water comes out of the dispenser. This must communicate with the solenoid on the back of the refrigerator to continue the flow of new water, right? If so, is that my problem with the ice water? My next test will be to call for ice water then check the connectors on the back for voltage to see if it's getting power. Should I get 120v from both of the connector pins that connect to Pic#3? Thank you!
