Whitechalk
Premium Member
- Model Number
- 665.13963K017
- Brand
- Sears Kenmore
- Age
- 1-5 years
Been through more diagnostic cycles and forums than I care to admit. Still cannot solve this problem using the Tech Sheet, codes or any logical analysis. Dishwasher is about 4 years old but everything looks brand new! Gotta be one part that‘s bad. Any suggestions welcomed.
No water going into dishwasher. Found water valve under sink had been turned NEARLY BUT NOT TOTALLY OFF at some point (our MOEN touch less faucet sometimes will not turn off so someone may have tried to stop the flow this way) but I think there was at least SOME water still getting through. Water source can’t be the problem now (unless it burned out something else) as water valve is now fully open. Water line is hot when running hot water at tap. Still, dishwasher Is not filling.
Initially ran diagnostics and had errors: F9E4 F9E1. No obstructions to lower sprayer arm. Disassembled sprayer arm to clean and make sure nothing inside is obstructing. Everything clean, no debris and Diverter disc clicks into place. Float valve seems fine, click is not loud but it’s there. Ordered new float switch anyway but has not arrived. (We had this error a few weeks ago but jostling the float valve made it stop.) Removed lower panel to look at wiring to Diverter motor and everything is fine, no corrosion, no burning, all connections tight. Disconnected wiring harnesses for vent in door as this has been identified in forums as potential trigger for random errors. Filled sump with vinegar/hot water as sometimes we do not use dishwasher for long periods (awe have summer house. Hey, you never know.
Ran diagnostics several times but who can tell when you’re in Interval 14? I can’t do it. Why don’t they label the intervals somewhere? The timing reported for each interval is not reliable. So I cannot do the LSA checks, just cannot figure that process out. Bottom line: lower spray arm is not moving. It’s spraying through the 2 rotating heads at the ends but the position does not change during the diagnostic cycle, and if I start the cycle at 90 degrees it does not end up at the 5 degree position. So it‘s not rotating.
New diagnostic cycle after checking all noted above (float switch, wiring below, vinegar trick, disassembling sprayer arm PLUS erasing all previous error codes by pressing HI TEMP during diagnostic cycle: first code is for door vent (disconnected) and only other code in F9E1.
So. . . Is the LSA motor in this model part of the Diverter motor or not? Do I replace the whole Diverter motor? Why would that be necessary if the error code is not F9E4? What else can I try?
Should I replace the water inlet valve too? I haven’t checked the connections using a multimeter. . . Another area of total confusion for me, do I do this while the dishwasher is running or with power off? Is it for continuity or 120v? Too many notes. Assume I’m willing to replace a part without knowing narrowing it down electrically. Should I replace the (1) water inlet valve; (2) float switch; (3) diverter motor + LSA motor, (4) control panel? If I get the parts and replace them in order then check to see if problem is fixed and I get water in cycle, is this the right order? Anything else I can do to fix this thing that I haven’t tried?
I tried to follow all the help offered here, it’s very helpful, but it‘s sometimes just not logical. Any help appreciated.
No water going into dishwasher. Found water valve under sink had been turned NEARLY BUT NOT TOTALLY OFF at some point (our MOEN touch less faucet sometimes will not turn off so someone may have tried to stop the flow this way) but I think there was at least SOME water still getting through. Water source can’t be the problem now (unless it burned out something else) as water valve is now fully open. Water line is hot when running hot water at tap. Still, dishwasher Is not filling.
Initially ran diagnostics and had errors: F9E4 F9E1. No obstructions to lower sprayer arm. Disassembled sprayer arm to clean and make sure nothing inside is obstructing. Everything clean, no debris and Diverter disc clicks into place. Float valve seems fine, click is not loud but it’s there. Ordered new float switch anyway but has not arrived. (We had this error a few weeks ago but jostling the float valve made it stop.) Removed lower panel to look at wiring to Diverter motor and everything is fine, no corrosion, no burning, all connections tight. Disconnected wiring harnesses for vent in door as this has been identified in forums as potential trigger for random errors. Filled sump with vinegar/hot water as sometimes we do not use dishwasher for long periods (awe have summer house. Hey, you never know.
Ran diagnostics several times but who can tell when you’re in Interval 14? I can’t do it. Why don’t they label the intervals somewhere? The timing reported for each interval is not reliable. So I cannot do the LSA checks, just cannot figure that process out. Bottom line: lower spray arm is not moving. It’s spraying through the 2 rotating heads at the ends but the position does not change during the diagnostic cycle, and if I start the cycle at 90 degrees it does not end up at the 5 degree position. So it‘s not rotating.
New diagnostic cycle after checking all noted above (float switch, wiring below, vinegar trick, disassembling sprayer arm PLUS erasing all previous error codes by pressing HI TEMP during diagnostic cycle: first code is for door vent (disconnected) and only other code in F9E1.
So. . . Is the LSA motor in this model part of the Diverter motor or not? Do I replace the whole Diverter motor? Why would that be necessary if the error code is not F9E4? What else can I try?
Should I replace the water inlet valve too? I haven’t checked the connections using a multimeter. . . Another area of total confusion for me, do I do this while the dishwasher is running or with power off? Is it for continuity or 120v? Too many notes. Assume I’m willing to replace a part without knowing narrowing it down electrically. Should I replace the (1) water inlet valve; (2) float switch; (3) diverter motor + LSA motor, (4) control panel? If I get the parts and replace them in order then check to see if problem is fixed and I get water in cycle, is this the right order? Anything else I can do to fix this thing that I haven’t tried?
I tried to follow all the help offered here, it’s very helpful, but it‘s sometimes just not logical. Any help appreciated.