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FIXED Kenmore Elite Dishwasher 665.12793K311 No Water Filling but diagnostic code is 9FE1

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Whitechalk

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2022
Messages
5
Location
MD
Model Number
665.13963K017
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
Been through more diagnostic cycles and forums than I care to admit. Still cannot solve this problem using the Tech Sheet, codes or any logical analysis. Dishwasher is about 4 years old but everything looks brand new! Gotta be one part that‘s bad. Any suggestions welcomed.

No water going into dishwasher. Found water valve under sink had been turned NEARLY BUT NOT TOTALLY OFF at some point (our MOEN touch less faucet sometimes will not turn off so someone may have tried to stop the flow this way) but I think there was at least SOME water still getting through. Water source can’t be the problem now (unless it burned out something else) as water valve is now fully open. Water line is hot when running hot water at tap. Still, dishwasher Is not filling.

Initially ran diagnostics and had errors: F9E4 F9E1. No obstructions to lower sprayer arm. Disassembled sprayer arm to clean and make sure nothing inside is obstructing. Everything clean, no debris and Diverter disc clicks into place. Float valve seems fine, click is not loud but it’s there. Ordered new float switch anyway but has not arrived. (We had this error a few weeks ago but jostling the float valve made it stop.) Removed lower panel to look at wiring to Diverter motor and everything is fine, no corrosion, no burning, all connections tight. Disconnected wiring harnesses for vent in door as this has been identified in forums as potential trigger for random errors. Filled sump with vinegar/hot water as sometimes we do not use dishwasher for long periods (awe have summer house. Hey, you never know.

Ran diagnostics several times but who can tell when you’re in Interval 14? I can’t do it. Why don’t they label the intervals somewhere? The timing reported for each interval is not reliable. So I cannot do the LSA checks, just cannot figure that process out. Bottom line: lower spray arm is not moving. It’s spraying through the 2 rotating heads at the ends but the position does not change during the diagnostic cycle, and if I start the cycle at 90 degrees it does not end up at the 5 degree position. So it‘s not rotating.

New diagnostic cycle after checking all noted above (float switch, wiring below, vinegar trick, disassembling sprayer arm PLUS erasing all previous error codes by pressing HI TEMP during diagnostic cycle: first code is for door vent (disconnected) and only other code in F9E1.

So. . . Is the LSA motor in this model part of the Diverter motor or not? Do I replace the whole Diverter motor? Why would that be necessary if the error code is not F9E4? What else can I try?

Should I replace the water inlet valve too? I haven’t checked the connections using a multimeter. . . Another area of total confusion for me, do I do this while the dishwasher is running or with power off? Is it for continuity or 120v? Too many notes. Assume I’m willing to replace a part without knowing narrowing it down electrically. Should I replace the (1) water inlet valve; (2) float switch; (3) diverter motor + LSA motor, (4) control panel? If I get the parts and replace them in order then check to see if problem is fixed and I get water in cycle, is this the right order? Anything else I can do to fix this thing that I haven’t tried?

I tried to follow all the help offered here, it’s very helpful, but it‘s sometimes just not logical. Any help appreciated.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
130,254
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Let's start with the NO FILL problem first. You will need a multimeter.

When it DOESN'T fill with water, you will need to check for 120 volts at the electrical connector that attaches to the water inlet valve. If your meter DOESN'T read 120 volts when it should be filling, first remove your tub float to make sure there isn't a foreign object underneath it or gunk buildup underneath it. When you pull the float up and let it go down you should hear the float switch click each time you do that as well.

Here's the float for your model:
Float WPW10195036


When you click the link to the float you will see a video of how to remove it.:)

Looks like they changed how to remove it, now you have to go from underneath and move the float stem out of the channel its in, then it will pull out.

It used to just pull out from the top without doing anything underneath it.:)

If you find nothing underneath it, next check your float switch.

Here's the float switch for your model, when you click the link to it you will see 2 videos, 1 on how to access it, 1 on how to ohm test it:

If your float and float switch are good, and you get 120 volts at the water inlet valve electrical connector, when you first start a new cycle, then that means the water inlet valve is the culprit.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
Water Inlet Valve W11175771


Jake
 

Whitechalk

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2022
Messages
5
Location
MD
Ok so let me get these steps in order then:

BUT FIRST: IGNORE F9E1 ERROR TO FOCUS ON WATER-FILL. (Illogical.)

1. To be ready (this may just be me), preorder float switch, water inlet valve, control panel. <<Keep door vent wires unconnected?>>
2. Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove lower access panel.
3. Remove float from below for obstruction check. If clear then reinstall float, move to float switch.
4. Remove float switch, place multimeter probes on each contact point, actuate, if 0.0 then switch is good, reinstall.
A. If no continuity (any value but zero), install new float switch, restore power, run diagnostics, run dishwasher to see if water fills.
B. If problem is not float valve or float switch, check water inlet valve.
5. Leave power on or turn power on. Remove both electric clips from water inlet valve
6. Start wash cycle
7. Put 1 multimeter probe in each wire port of water inlet valve as cycle is running.
A. If meter reads 120v then control panel is providing power but valve is bad, install new water inlet valve, run diagnostics, run dishwasher.
B. If meter does not read 120v then valve may be good, reinstall water inlet valve, control panel is bad.
8. Install new control panel, run diagnostics, run dishwasher, see if that fixed water-fill problem.

If water still not filling tub then . . . << wait until we get there >>

If water is now filling dishwasher, diagnostics may generate no or new error code or F9E1 code again. Is it possible the LSA will now rotate b/c water pressure? Or is this separate problem with another track ahead? What parts can I order ahead of time for this one, diverter motor?

Appreciate your help!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
130,254
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Yes, Ignore F9E1 for now, that has no correlation on the water fill problem.

If water still not filling tub then . . . << wait until we get there >>
Correct.

If water is now filling dishwasher, diagnostics may generate no or new error code or F9E1 code again. Is it possible the LSA will now rotate b/c water pressure? Or is this separate problem with another track ahead? What parts can I order ahead of time for this one, diverter motor?
Correct.

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

Jake
 

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  • Tech Sheet - W10321874 - Rev B.pdf
    1.7 MB · Views: 22

Whitechalk

Premium Member
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Apr 26, 2022
Messages
5
Location
MD
Thanks, Jake. With all of the info provided by the manufacturer, by the diagnostics procedures, and in these forums, it is not helpful that (a) a water fill problem would not have its own error code, and (b) an error code generated by the equipment should be ignored to begin solving the problem. This is not how troubleshooting is supposed to work.

I do appreciate your patience and help. I’ll resume work on this tomorrow and let you know how I’m progressing on my checklist.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Redmond, Oregon
It does have its own error code failure, but the control board could be faulty, thus telling it not to throw the fill error code.:)

I'm a old timer from the 80's when we ohm tested and volt tested, these freaking control boards on appliances go bad so often its not even funny!

And a dishwasher puts out a lot of heat, and control boards hate too much heat and start malfunctioning!

Here's a prime example of a burnt dishwasher control board:
IMG_5173[2].jpg


Jake
 

Whitechalk

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2022
Messages
5
Location
MD
I replaced the float switch and the water inlet valve. No obstruction on float valve. Still no water running into dishwasher. Ran diagnostics twice, first time error was F9E4. Second time was F-E- F-E- F-E- F-E- F10E3 F9E1. Sheesh. I’m replacing the control board, this seems like the only reasonable option when even the error codes make no sense. I take your point that the control boards often go bad. If that doesn’t work, my brief career as a dishwasher repair person will probably be over. I will report back if only to document my despair. Thanks, Jake. Btw that is not my Tech Sheet posted above. I did get one from your other posts.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Redmond, Oregon
Yes, my bad, that was the wrong tech. data sheet, sorry about that. I'm posting the correct tech data sheet below in case others following your thread needs it too.

Yes, I would of preferred you use a multimeter before you ordering and replacing those parts, I only posted the parts to show you them for your model, and also in case one tested bad with your meter.

Also to test the voltage coming into the water inlet valve electrical connector for 120 volts when it should be filling.

Here's the control board for your model:
W10866117 Cntrl-Elec


Jake
 

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  • techsheet-w10543820-revb.pdf
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Whitechalk

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Messages
5
Location
MD
Replacing the control board fixed the problem. My lesson learned here is that if diagnostic codes keep changing or don’t make sense, it’s probably the control board. Thanks for your help, Jake.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
130,254
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Excellent, glad to hear the new control board fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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