Kenmore Elite Range 790.99129407 not heating oven

[mfp4073]

Model Number

790.99129407

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

More than 10 years

My girlfriend said she heard a pop when she turned it on. It got a "little warm" up to 150 degrees. Range top works. convection fan works (no heat). warming drawer works. Now a day later it creates no heat in the oven. I inspected the element and pulled the back off the range and have continuity on the element (dont know what the resistance should be). One of the lights looks burned out at the socket. So that will need to be replaced, but no idea if its been like that for a long time or not. A few of the wires above the convection fan motor are a little dark, but dont look like they are actually damaged. I really like the range, even though its older (probably 15 years plus) and would rather repair it than replace.

I cant find a repair place in my area that I trust, so figured to give it a go with a forum and see if I could get some testing help to narrow down the problem. I can replace parts without an issue. But no idea how to competently test!

Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!

 

[Jake]

Hi,

Sounds like possibly the oven control board or oven relay board popped and thus no heat now. I'd unplug the range and look at both for burnt spots on them.

Unfortunately, the oven relay board is No Longer Available:
Board 316272402

 

[mfp4073]

Ug, that sucks. my thoughts were the same but really didnt know how to test it to be sure. I didnt see anything when I inspected it while installed. But will look closer. If its something as simple as a diode or resistor I can get and replace those easy. Looks like im going to go over all the wires related to the heating element to check continuity but fear the worst here. Thank you for your reply. Will let you know if I come up with anything. If nothing else you saved me calling a repair company to charge me to say "yeah, its the board and they arent available and here is your bill for $100"!

 

[Jake]

Glad to help.

 

[mfp4073]

Ok, dug a little more into it. maybe you can help with some advice, direction, and knowledge!

There are two main boards. One down low left on the back and one right behind the clock. (pics below)


bottom left one



top behind clock one




If you look here, at the top center one, there is a resistor/diode that looks like it might be burnt/expanded. The doohicky to the right has some dark areas too.


I tracked the wires to the heating element to this board (the top center one) and wiring is complete (unknown if its correct resistance, but its not open)

I was able to get a used lower left board off ebay thats supposed to be good for $40 shipped. So that will be a test, but could the issues im having be explained by the top board having issues? Im finding those out there online but in the 140$ range (pun intended). More than I am ready to toss down at a blind guess.
Thank you again for your help!

 

[Jake]

If you look here, at the top center one, there is a resistor/diode that looks like it might be burnt/expanded. The doohicky to the right has some dark areas too.

Yes, I see that, good find!

could the issues im having be explained by the top board having issues?

Yes.

Here's the clock/oven control board for your model:
Oven Control Board 316418750


Here's a test you can do if you want to confirm that--->Set your meter to measure Volts AC and measure between "L1" and" L2 IN". If your meter indicates 240 Volts AC the clock/oven control board needs to be replaced.

Becareful if you do this test, do touch anything else when working with LIVE VOLTAGE, and unplug the RANGE after your done.

 

[mfp4073]

I can try that this weekend. And yes....Im not great with electronics but know enough to know not to get bit and be VERY careful. I can get those resistors/diodes (tell me which that burnt one is because I dont know how to tell the difference by looking at them). I have a place in town here where I can easily and cheaply get resistors and diodes and although im not great a soldering, ive replaced them before. I can literally walk in there and show a picture to them and get what I need for probably a few pennies each.

 

[Jake]

AS Techs we don't replace parts at board level, so I have no clue which that burnt one is, sorry. There is not a board schematic for it either to tell you.

 

[mfp4073]

Ok, few updated tests. Again THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ANSWERING ALL MY QUESTIONS!!!


I purchased the 40 used bottom board. It came in today. No change in symptoms. But it does work just like the one that was in it.

I checked to confirm 240 power at the range side connections, check

Poles on the top board that I tested.

Listing on them is left to right

L2 IN
L2 OUT
Conv (no wire)
Bake
Broil
L1

L2 out to L1 with oven off 110
L2 out to L2 in with oven off 110
L2 out to L2 in with oven on 240
L1 to L2in indicated nothing. Even with oven on or off

Im not sure if I understood your instructions as you said if it reads 240 then it needs replacing? I was expecting the opposite!

I was unable to get any reading from the tabs that go to the oven element.

But was hearing it click when it was turned on or off.

So thats where I am! If there is another check oven on or off just give me the direction. I feel like its probably time to just replace the top clock board assembly.

 

[Jake]

L1 to L2in indicated nothing. Even with oven on or off

I feel like its probably time to just replace the top clock board assembly.

That's the board you need to replace.

 

[mfp4073]

Ok, final jepoardy question. I tried my local appliance part place, and as you said they are no longer available. I thought I saw some online, but now realize those are "repair" prices. Ive found one on ebay for 300 I also see "repair kits" on ebay and other places for $30, but they dont show or list whats included, just a box or bag. I suspect they dont include my "burnt resistor". Any suggestions here? Any idea what makes up a "repair kit"

 

[Jake]

Sorry, I don't know anything about any kind of "repair kits" you can get.

The average life of Range's is only 8-12 years nowadays, so you may want to save the $300 repair money for a new Range.

 

[mfp4073]

Ok, just to confirm, if the L1 and L2 IN tabs read 240v with oven off then its bad?

I got a replacement board in (that can be returned) and its reading the same as the old one. Still no heat in the oven.

 

[Jake]

Here's a test you can do if you want to confirm that--->Set your meter to measure Volts AC and measure between "L1" and" L2 IN". If your meter indicates 240 Volts AC the clock/oven control board needs to be replaced.

At first you said it was:

L1 to L2in indicated nothing. Even with oven on or off

Now your getting 240 volts? If so, then its still bad.

Return it for a full refund and Happy Range shopping.

 

[mfp4073]

ok, again, you have been so awesome with all your responses and help. We went out last night/today and did some shopping. Came home with a really good deal on a GE #JBS86SPSS for $900 as it was an unused return that wouldnt fit the persons kitchen. If nothing else ive learned a lot about troubleshooting ranges, but hopefully wont need that skill for a very long time.

 

[Jake]

That's a good GE Range.