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Kenmore HE2- 110.86562500--No Heat, No voltage at Element- troubleshooting help requested

jpaul217

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Illinois
Model Number
110.86562500
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
Unit stopped heating, I initially checked the thermal fuse, found what appeared to be a somewhat loose connection, and after continuity tested ok and reconnection the unit worked one time.
Then it stopped heating again.
Troubleshooting steps taken:
continuity checked:
Thermal fuse -OK
Thermistor- OK
Thermal Cut Off- OK
Thermostat- OK
Heating coil- OK

Voltage test while powered up and running showed no power to heating coil.

Any further steps or troubleshooting checks, voltages appreciated.
Im thinking it may be the control board.? I have replaced this before.
I dont remember what to check at control board or what additional steps helped me determine control board was the isuue, it has been a few years.
Please any assistance, My wife is driving me nuts to spend big money on a new unit when I KNOW, i can repair this one.
Thanks, jpaul
 

jpaul217

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Illinois
So, I swapped out the current board with the old board I had replaced years ago and had no change in readings or functions.
Its looking to me like the board is the problem.
Any ideas on what component on the board could be tested or replaced? I am an electronics tech by trade. Just need some technical expertise from someone familiar with this problem and unit.
Thanks, Jpaul
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,393
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Did you first check your dual breaker in your home breaker box to make sure one is not tripped? I've seen that happen a lot on my service calls, if one is tripped and one is not, it will run but never heat.

If your dual breaker is not tripped, then pull your dryer out from the wall, then unplug it, then check your terminal block where your power cord connects to.

I see that happen a lot too, look here:
(click to enlarge)
FriedWires.jpg

Terminal Block WP3397659


Terminal Kit 279318


When you click the links to the terminal block and terminal kit you will see HOW TO videos.

If you see no broken wires at the terminal block, then The first thing I always do is use my multimeter to do a volt test at the dryer terminal block, where the power cord connects to it.

First make sure your getting 230-240 volts at the terminal block in the back of your dryer. The outer wires are hot, middle wire is neutral. So put your volt meter probes on each of the two outer wires at the terminal block and see what your meter reads, you should get 230-240 volts between the two outer wires on the terminal block.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,393
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
If your breaker is not tripped and you are getting 240 volts at the terminal block, then you can unplug the dryer and Join the 2 wires together for the heat relay as a test and see if it starts to heat.

As techs we don't repair or replace components on control boards, we just replace the board. But your free to do what you want to do.:)

Here's the control board for your model:
Main Control Board WPW10111606


Jake
 

jpaul217

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Illinois
Thanks for your reply Jake.

Yes, That is the first thing I tested. (240v)
I checked 110V at each leg of the terminal and 240V across the outer legs. Both front and back of terminal. Also checked (while unplugged) each 110v terminal to terminal, and to ground, for continuity. No shorts.

Joining the 2 wires for the heat relay..?
Is this the Blue and Black wires at P9? Directly below the relay in your photo? This will immediately power up the heating coil, correct?
I noticed I do not hear the relay "click" as I did when I originally replaced the board.

I will just replace the control board if it is the issue. Though I might try to find a relay and swap it on the old board, test it, and hopefully have a temporary backup if the problem should occur again.

Thanks Jake. You have helped me previously with this or another similar issue. Your technical expertise and knowledge has been a lifesaver!
I was not able to locate my old thread from 2016 or even my screen name. The link I had save as a bookmark could not be found.


AAH wow that burnt terminal wire is scary stuff!

 

jpaul217

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Illinois
OK well. I made a mistake?.

I re-tested the voltage at the heating coil. Across the legs I got 0v on my DMM set at 500v.
BUT, I tested each leg to the ground (casing) and each has 110V. Then momentarily.. the heating coil came on.

Now I am really confused.

I also checked the board per the troubleshooting guide. which states:
step, #5
"If no open circuit detected on test#3, Measure the resistance between P14-3(red-white wire) and P14-6(red-white wire) at the machine control board"
"-> if 5-15k ohms are measured, replace the machine control electronics"


The resistance was not steady ( but climbing), and was well above those limits.

Gahhhh! Something is intermitant? Or the coil is bad/weak/shorted to casing ?

I will pull it when I get a chance, but appreciate any more advice you have.




 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,393
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
No, The BLACK and RED wires go to the heater relay.

Join the BLACK and RED wires together and put black electrical tape on them to keep them from touching anything while your testing.:)

Jake
 

jpaul217

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Illinois
heh yeah I found out jumping the blue and black turned on the dryer motor/drum spinning without firing up the front panel/controls as soon as I plugged in the wall socket.:oops:

I went ahead and pulled the heating coil.
The plate in between the coils has cracked.
The underside of metal plate has weakened and warped from heat, with one portion corroded away (similar to rusted metal bubbling up) and touching the coil itself.

The coil itself appears to be fine.

The photos will give you a better idea of what I mean.

I was considering breaking away the remaining damaged portions of the mounting plate. Then securing the crack with a patch plate (thin stainless, sheet steel, or galvanized?) and screws to secure it in place. To make it straight and rigid for mounting.

I'll order a new one, but would like to know if this solves the problem before spending the money on the control board.

Any thoughts? see photos:



heating coil crakcbottom012.jpgheating coil crack, melted007.jpgheating coil bottom011.jpg
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,393
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Did you Join BLACK and RED relay wires to see if the heating element would come on?

Did you ohm test the heating element? If so what did your meter say the ohms was?

Jake
 

jpaul217

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Illinois
Yes, the heating element came on when the wires were directly connected.
I will be replacing the element due to the damage, but it is not the problem.

I reinstalled the element after minor repairs and securing the mounting plate and cleaning all parts and the housing.
When I started the machine the element came on intermittently.
I could hear the Relay clicking on and off corresponding to the ignition of the element.

I pulled the board and touched up any suspicious/ cold solder joints and the legs on the relay.

I replaced the board and the unit then began to heat.
I tested several times, and it worked every time.. until I actually washed a load of clothes and attempted to dry it ahaha . Of course.
Then the relay was engaging and disengaging as before.

I sourced and ordered the relay and will swap it out. $ 5-10 depending on source and how fast I wanted to receive.

I'll be clotheslining for a week or so, but its worth a shot rather than buying a control board again.

This is the 3rd one in 13 yrs.

The first replacement was new and this one a refurb. The factory board made it 5 yrs, the new replacement 5 yrs, the refurb 3.
All have had the same issue, no heat. I see that as a manufacturing flaw or poor design.

If the relay solves the issue, I'll post a reply, If not I'll be ordering a board .
I'll post a reply regardless when the unit is "FIXED"

Thanks again for your help and troubleshooting . Much appreciated.
These things always break at the worst possible time. Either low on cash or no time to deal with it.

 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,393
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Got it! Thanks!

Yes, your element does look really bad, I'd replace it too if I was you.:)

For others following your thread: When you click the link to the heating element you will see two videos, one on how to access/replace it, one on how to ohm test it.

Here's the heating element for your model:
Heating Element Assembly WP8544771


Yes, Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 
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