Kenmore Ice Maker not making nor dropping ice

Warrobi3

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2013
Messages
3
Location
Colorado
Model Number
106.53632300
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
I'm having trouble figuring out what is wrong with the ice making system in my Kenmore fridge/freezer. The unit stopped dropping ice about 2 weeks ago. I figured it was probably the icemaker itself (maybe the heating element) so I replaced the icemaker.

With the new icemaker installed, it 1/2 filled the tray with water (only the right side by the inlet ended up with water in it, enough for 4 out of the 8 icecubes). Those froze solid, but did not dump into the ice bucket. BTW: I manually filled the remaining 4 slots in the icetray with water so that I had a full 8 to ensure that the ice would be against the thermostat in the icemaker. Still didn't dump that ice after more than 12 hours.

Any helpful hints to troubleshoot this further?

Thanks!
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

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Warrobi3

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2013
Messages
3
Location
Colorado
Kenmore Ice Maker not making nor dropping ice, optics are "good"

I checked the optics following the instructions from Rick Burton, and the show that they are good (i.e. with the emitter door taped back, the LED is on steady, but flashes twice when the door blocks the beam.

Does anyone have other suggestions? Thanks!
 

rickgburton

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OK if the optics check good, measure the voltage at the ice maker power module between "L" and "N" You'll need to tape the flapper back and not block the beam to the receiver. If you have 115 VAC and it's not going through a harvest cycle, your new ice maker is bad. Try to force cycle the ice maker only if you have the correct voltage*. If you do not have the correct voltage between "L" and "N" replace the optics. I'll give you another test for the optics.

*To force cycle the ice-maker, remove the cover over the ice maker module and locate holes “T” and “H”. Take a small piece of wire bent in the shape of a U and short “T” and “H” together. The ice-maker will start the harvest cycle. Wait about 10 seconds and remove wire. The Ice maker will continue through the cycle. At the end of the harvest cycle the ice-maker supplies the coil on the water valve with 110 VAC.
NOTE: If your refrigerator uses the Optics, you’ll also have to tape the emitter flap back and not block the space between the emitter and receiver. You will also need to hold the light switch in until the ice maker starts then remove the wire. Close the freezer door.

008 Ice Maker Module.jpg
 

Warrobi3

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2013
Messages
3
Location
Colorado
I checked the voltage between L and N and got back 35v with the flapper taped back and beam not blocked. Is this typical for an optics failure?

Thanks again for all the help!
 

rickgburton

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That's how it works. There should be 120 VAC at the receiver between the black wire and white wire and if the optics are working correctly, between the black/white wire and the white wire. The black/white wire and white wire are "L" and "N" on the module.

ADVANCED OPTICS IDI TEST
Tape the emitter door back to unblock the beam. Disconnect the power to the machine. Slide the ice maker out and remove the cover and locate holes “T” and “H”. Take a small piece of wire bent in the shape of a U and short “T” and “H” together. Restore power to the machine. Close the freezer door to align the optics and wait 5 seconds. Open the freezer door and see if the ice maker has started a harvest cycle. If not, the ice maker needs to be replaced. If the ice maker has started a harvest cycle, remove the jumper wire and reinstall the ice maker or be prepared to catch the water fill. Close the door and go behind the refrigerator and listen for the water valve to turn on. Immediately disconnect the power after the water fills. Wait 5 seconds and restore power (Make sure the freezer door is closed). Wait 5 seconds and open the freezer door and watch the status LED. 4 pulses repeated once > relay is defective, replace optics. 3 pulses repeated once > relay and optics are good but the ice maker is not being sensed, replace the ice maker. 2 pulses repeated once > optics are defective. Steady light for 5 seconds, all is good
 

Jake

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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, Rick is correct.

Sounds like your optics are fine.

Read this about the low voltage: Ice Maker optics low voltage problem

The ice maker needs to be below 15 degrees in the freezer to start running normally, some can take up to 72 hours to start cycling normally.

Are the white ejector arm fingers are pointing at you or slightly above you?

Here's the ice maker for your model, see how the ejector arm fingers should be pointing right at you? That's how your ejector arm fingers look now?
Manufacturer Number 2198597



Ohm the in-line thermal fuse, its located on the wiring harness to the ice maker. If that in-line thermal fuse is open, then we found the problem.

It comes integrated with the ice maker wire harness, in case you need to order it:
Manufacturer part number WP2187467


It's the black wire, ohm that black wire for continuity.

If that ohms fine then its your ice maker that bad, I know you already replaced it, but I've seen many come either defective or damaged in shipping.

With the new icemaker installed, it 1/2 filled the tray with water (only the right side by the inlet ended up with water in it, enough for 4 out of the 8 ice cubes). Those froze solid, but did not dump into the ice bucket. BTW: I manually filled the remaining 4 slots in the ice tray with water so that I had a full 8 to ensure that the ice would be against the thermostat in the icemaker.
This concerns me, the ice maker should fill all 8 cube slots at all time.

How's the water pressure from your water supply line to the water inlet valve?

I always check customers water pressure before I do anything.

Pull your refrigerator out away from the wall, turn off your water supply line that goes to it, then take off your water supply line from the water inlet valve, then get a bucket, cup, bowl, etc to catch the water, then put your water supply line in the bucket and turn it on, your water stream should be really good with good water pressure, if not then the problem is in your plumbing water supply line.

If your water pressure is good, then order the water inlet valve.


Here's the water inlet valve for your model you can order here:
Manufacturer Number W10408179


Jake
 
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