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Kenmore Model 110.82374110 - Won't Spin

killjoy

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2020
Messages
2
Location
Hell
Model Number
110.82374110
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
I have a Kenmore Model 110 that's at least 25 years old. I'd guess early 1990's vintage. The washer powers on and runs normally, except that it won't spin. It fills, agitates during the wash cycle, empties, etc. Timer progresses normally as if it were spinning. Motor sounds like it's running during the spin cycle, but the basket doesn't move at all. I tested the lid switch for continuity, tested fine, but I replaced it JIC - no difference. I tried putting the washer in spin cycle, depressing the lid switch - no basket movement even when trying to help it move by hand.

I'm going to tear into it tomorrow morning. I'm hoping to find a broken belt, but didn't see anything laying under the machine. Google shows it could also be the drive block - not clear how this part could cause no spinning, guessing maybe if the inside ears get sheared off? I didn't noticed any particularly loud noises prior to this issue, so seems a bit weird if this is it.

Would appreciate any advice on what to check, where to look. Most of the washer troubleshooting online seems to be for direct drive systems. I don't think this unit has a clutch or plastic motor coupler which seems to be the 2 things everyone recommends checking.

Also have noticed a small bit of water on the floor after a cycle. Water pump was replaced 6 years ago. I don't believe the tub seal has ever been replaced. Is there a tub seal, or a seal, that I should plan to replace if I'm pulling out the inner basket to get at/replace the drive block?

Thanks
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,986
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Your Whirlpool made Kenmore was made in June of 1983.

It sounds like the wig wag solenoid may be bad, very common on these old belt drive models when it didn't spin with the motor running and belt intact, but it's NLA ( No Longer Available ).

Read here: http://www.applianceaid.com/inglis-common.html#spinhttp://www.applianceaid.com/inglis-common.html#spin

Here's the wig-wag assembly for your model:
Solenoid Wig Wag 84867


To ohm test the Wigwag Read here:
wigwagohm.jpg


For the water leak: It the tub seal is not leaking, then a rusted tub is common and rusted center post is common....both parts are NLA ( No Longer Available ).

Might be best to put the money into a new washer.

If the tub seal is leaking its still available:
Tub Seal W10814296


Jake
 
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killjoy

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2020
Messages
2
Location
Hell
Jake - Thanks for the detailed response and your troubleshooting appears to be dead on.

Yesterday I planning to tear into it to replace the drive block. I stopped at my local appliance repair shop to buy a spanner wrench to pull the main nut off of the agitator shaft, and the guy let me borrow one... and told me before I rip that apart, to check the 4 wires on the wigwag solenoids, since they're very well known to break on this model. Sure enough, I get home, open the back panel, and notice the Yellow wire has a crack right where it passed upward through the top plate of the wigwag. I barely touched it and the wire split in two. Happy that I found the problem, I went back to the shop to get a replacement wire harness, only to find out that no one has part in stock (285610). So instead, they took some existing wiring harness they had laying around and made me the equivalent. So I gave him the spanner wrench back, ran home and replaced all 3 wires from the solenoids up through the mechanical top plate and spliced all 3 wires (R/Y/W) in the tub compartment - thinking surely this would surely solve the problem. Of course, I did see on the wiring schematic on the back panel that the yellow wire was the hot for the agitate solenoid, and red was for spin, white common... but shrugged it off thinking the diagram must be wrong.

Replaced the wires, put the until back together, plugged it in and was confident that it was fixed -- no luck, and exact same symptoms as before I started. Thinking I may have not assembled the lid safety switch correctly when I replaced it, I tore that back apart and jumpered the leads with alligator clips, retested - no change, still no spin. Was out of time, so gave up for the day frustrated.

Came back this afternoon, ready for round 2, luckily read your post before digging in -- the spin solenoid being bad would make sense, but weird that the yellow agitate hot wire was literally broken in half -- so that would mean the agitate wire was broken and the spin solenoid was bad at the same time? OK, maybe. Got the Fluke MM out, open the back panel, unplugged the 4 wires off the solenoids. Agitate solenoid reads 530.5 Ohms. Spin solenoid read as being open. Woot! Problem found. That yellow wire must have had just enough continuity to pass enough power to run the solenoid, even being broken.

But now, as you said, no one seems to have the wigwam assembly in stock any more. I took a chance and just bought this one off Ebay. Sears Parts Direct had it too, but $45+. Not entirely sure how hard this will be to replace, but hopefully it gets the machine back up and running. Sounds like most say you need to sand out the center hole on the magnet plate to get it to slip onto the PIN/shaft.
 
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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,986
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent, yes that's the problem then.

Control Magnet(Wigwag) Removal

Disconnect the power
Remove the wires to the coils
Using a 5/16 socket remove the tapered screw then work the control magnet assembly off of the shaft on the transmission.
Replace in reverse order and run/check

Note: Just in case you gotten mixed up, Looking from the back, Red & White wires on the left , Yellow & White on the right

Yes, you can use sandpaper if needed.

Jake
 
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