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Kenmore Range 790.95683301 Front Left Burner Won't Turn On

MageyouCry

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2020
Messages
4
Location
US
Model Number
790.95683301
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
The front left burner won't heat at all. I've done some testing (see below) and the two most common bad points have come back with continuity.

I have continuity through H1 to H2 when they are disconnected from the switch (ruling out a bad burner?).

Switch in 'Off' position: No continuity between L1 and L2
Switch in 'On' position: Continuity between L1 and L2.

What is the next step?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,784
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, correct H1 and H2 go to that left front burner, so if you have continuity there, then the burner switch itself is bad.

To confirm that, take a voltage reading at the H1 and H2 terminals on the burner switch and your meter should read 240 volts. Becareful to not touch anything else when testing LIVE electricity! Unplug your range before and after testing.

Here's the left front burner switch for your model you can order:
316049800 Switch


Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

MageyouCry

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2020
Messages
4
Location
US
Thank you for the reply.

From your comment my next steps are: Disconnect oven power --> Disconnect H1 and H2 from switch --> Reconnect oven power --> Test D/C voltage of the H1 and H2 terminals on the back of the switch (in on or off position)?


Thanks again.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,784
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Not DC Voltage, AC Voltage.

With the burner switch ON test for 240 volts at H1 and H2, meaning--->put one meter probe on H1 and put the other meter probe on H2 and see if you get 240 volts WITH the burner switch ON.:)

Jake
 

MageyouCry

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2020
Messages
4
Location
US
I replaced the switch with a brand new one and it's still not working. I am still not getting 240 on H1 and H2 with power and switch turned on. Could this have anything to do with the simmer select? Do I have a loose connector somewhere I have checked to make sure everything is plugged in all the way.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,784
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona

MageyouCry

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2020
Messages
4
Location
US
It seems like the simmer select is downstream from this switch. I don't understand how it would be causing the issue.

Is there anyway I can short or bypass the simmer select all together to see if it allows the burner to turn on?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,784
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
It's in series with it, I'm attaching your wiring diagram below.

L2 goes to terminal 1 of the simmer push-button switch.

So if you jump the wires on terminal 1 and 4 on the simmer push-button switch it should work, be very careful not to touch anything while working with LIVE ELECTRICITY.

Disconnect power before and after jumping those wires.

Jake
 

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