Kenmore Refrigerator 106.51173310 Low water pressure after new intake valve

[Gatler]

Model Number

106.51173310

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

6-10 years

Hello, been struggling with a low water pressure issue on this Kenmore Coldspot. My symptoms are very small ice cubes, low ice output, frequantly stuck ice machine, low water dispencer output. The biggest issue is the slow water output above all else.

I have replaced the water filter and water intake valve. The incoming water pressure is fine but as soon as it gets to the intake valve it turns into a trickle. This is a new part aswell so I'm at a loss. The power supply on the plug reads 80V with a multimeter when attempting to supply water. The other solenoid plugs are recieving 120V as intended.

I have been told it is a wiring issue by other help, I have pulled the compressor harness and could not find any opens or broken wires. There is an inline resistor to the intake that measures 6.0-5.5 M ohm, unsure what the rating is supposed to be.

Thanks for the help

 

[Jake]

I noticed there is a diode in the wire harness to the single Isolation water inlet valve in the back of the refrigerator, but usually when that goes bad when the ice maker fill water comes on it goes out the water dispenser on your door and visa-versa.

Here's the wiring harness with the diode in it for your model:
Wire Harness W11291133


Did you remove the wire harness LOOM at the bottom of the freezer door to check for broken wires there too?

(click to enlarge)


Look at this thread:

FIXED - GSC25C4EYB00 Whirlpool modular ice maker, no water. No continuity from V to N .

I Have a W10122576 ice maker that never gets water. Testing continuity at points V and N on Ice maker I have no continuity at all. Measuring continuity at solenoid the yellow is 270 ohms and the red is 193 ohms. Jumping L and V does nothing. I monitored voltage across V and N after jumping T and...

www.applianceblog.com

Whirlpool makes your Kenmore refrigerator.

You have a primary(isolation) and secondary water inlet valve, Both of these water inlet valves are in the back of your refrigerator. The dual one should be located behind the single one, it will have a small plastic cover over it that is held on by 1 screw, just remove that screw to get that cover off the dual one. When you click the water inlet valve part links you will see a video to show you how to access/replace them.

When you press the water dispenser lever it sends 120 volts to the primary one, the secondary one gets the same 120 volts too.

Here's the single(primary) water inlet valve for your model:
WPW10238100 Valve


Here's the dual(secondary) water inlet valve for your model:
Water Inlet Valve WPW10341320


Jake

 

[Gatler]

Yes I have crawled all over this thing for opens. The system is very consistent in how poorly it is at delivering water. I'll have to try the harness I suppose, all the solenoids work as intended. We don't really see any leaks from the water dispenser though, like you said with the diode going bad.

 

[Gatler]

Tried the harness, worked for a bit and now we are back to square one again. Can these plugs be put on backwards? Like the water stream was better than went right back to how it was. Can the diode fry? It measures 3.0 M ohm now down from 6.0 M ohm.

 

[Jake]

The diode isn't the problem, like I mentioned above: Usually when the diode goes bad is when the ice maker fill water comes on and it goes out the water dispenser on your door and visa-versa.

You have a intermittent problem that will be hard to nail down, its best to contact Sears to come out at 1-800-469-4663 to see what's going on.

Jake