FIXED Kenmore Series 500 (110.25132410) Spin Issue

[mmitchell7]

Model Number

110.25132410

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

6-10 years

Hello and thank you in advanced for any help in troubleshooting this situation. Our Kenmore Series 500 (Mod 110.25132410) is acting up. We have had this for almost 8 years. We first noticed clothes were soaking wet recently so I began doing some diagnostic checking. We originally had an F7E1 Error code. Upon doing some basic googling I believed perhaps the suspension rods were faulty since there have been times over the years when the washer has been overloaded and shaken pretty violently. I was able to replace those fairly easily. I cleared the codes and did an Automatic Test. After that there were no errors so I thought maybe I had solved the issue. I ran the "recalibration mode" after that and when it got to the Spin cycle, the machine shook very violently to the point that I had to unplug the unit because I thought it may rip itself apart. I had the lid lock bypassed and was able tow watch and the basket reached some very high speeds. I let it go on for about a minute or so before unplugging.

Since then we have run the laundry since all other modes still seem to work and we are having the same result. It appears that when it is time for the machine to cycle into a high speed spin and drain it just doesn't do it and everything is soaking wet again.

More recently I checked the error codes again and got the following:

• F0E5 - Out of Balance Load
• F7E6 - Motor Fault
• F0E2 - Excessive Suds

(Apologies if these faults are incorrectly identified. Going off what google tells me)

After clearing the codes and running the auto test I again got an F7E1 code.

I got the machine on it's back and removed the motor cover and don't see anything that looks immediately broken. There was a couple drops of oil on the cover but not a lot. I have not tested the capacitor yet since I don't have that setting on my multimeter.

I spoke with a very helpful appliance repair professional and after describing things to him he was honest and anticipated the time it may take to troubleshoot/fix would not be worth the cost and I would be better off getting a new machine. I appreciated that feedback as that has been my main reason for trying to figure things out on my own. I may still go the route of buying a new machine but I saw some really helpful forums here and wanted to see if I could tinker and get this thing fixed on my own! (As long as my wife doesn't kill me first ) Thanks in advanced. Happy to answer any and all questions.

 

[mmitchell7]

Just an updated - borrowed a multimeter that tests capacitance and I got 50.7 so that seems to be in range. Thanks

 

[Jake]

Without any clothes in the machine, does the tub still bang the sides of the washer cabinet in spin?

Let's first check the hub.

Here's the hub for your model:
W10528947 Hub


Here's a video to access/replace it:

Look at these photos below of the hub teeth grinded down to smooth. It should NOT be grinded down to smooth.

Let us know what you find.

 

[mmitchell7]

Thanks for your reply Jake!

Yes without any clothes in, when I have set it to recalibrate the basket gets spinning extremely fast and gets the whole machine rocking.

I have tried several times to remove the agitator from the top since that felt like it could be a good place to start. That being said, I have had no luck removing it once getting the cap and bolt out of the way. I have even watched other videos of folks suggesting how to remove it but so far no twisting or lifting has helped.

I will go back and try to get it off since that is really the only place I have not been able to get a good look at. Will report back.

thanks again for your help!

-Mike

 

[mmitchell7]

Really having ZERO luck prying the agitator off and from reading other threads it seems like I could be out of luck. I'd rather not cut it off and buy a new one if I don't know if that will fix my problem. Tried prying with a small bar and tried getting some rope under but nothing is working. 🤷‍♂️

Any other thoughts? Can't get it loose from underneath if I remove the entire motor assembly right?

Thought about soaking it with some Iron Out since I'm assuming it's rusted on.

 

[Jake]

Can't get it loose from underneath if I remove the entire motor assembly right?

Nope, the agitator has to be removed to get access to it, keep trying.

Yes, try these 2 videos below if you haven't already.

In this video he uses 2 pull hook tools to get it off:

Let us know how it goes.

 

[mmitchell7]

Thank Jake,

Yea Im watched that first one. I don't have any citric acid handy but may get some tomorrow.

Will keep trying but might break out the saw soon. So far I have tried drilling a few holes to get leverage in the center to know avail. And then I really thought I was on to something by using some ratchets. See images if you want a good laugh.

Will report back!

 

[Jake]

Your doing good, lots of leverage is the key.

Here's the washplate for your model:
W10752285 Washplate

 

[mmitchell7]

Alrighty, so a quick update on where I'm at, Jake. It's been an adventure getting that washplate off. I will quickly summarize what I did...
After a very long time of tinkering and trying to gain leverage, I gave up on trying to get the plate off and broke out the sawzall. Cut as close as possible to the shaft and then ended up breaking everything away leaving the metal nut from the washplate. After trying t use any combination of vice grips and pliers to slide it off the shaft I broke out the gear puller and after about 30 minutes of PB Blaster and slowly working it up and down the damn thing finally yielded and came off. The hub came off very easily (almost too easily?). It's clearly stripped as you can see from the photos. I have a new hub and washplate on it's way but my question is this:

Do we think, from the images I have attached, that it's worth pursing this repair any further?

The shaft looks pretty gnarly and a little too smooth but I am not sure what to compare it too. I can clean it up with some rust eater and anti-seize when I put it back together but I'd rather not install a brand new hub and washplate which will cost me about a hundred dollars if the shaft isn't looking good. Can that be replaced inexpensively?

Thanks for taking the time to following along and for your advice, Jake. I really appreciate it. Either way I am enjoying the challenge and learning a lot.

Thanks

-Mike

 

[Jake]

wow, that's probably the worst I've seen, good job being persistent and getting it off Mike.

Yes, if you have a wire brush, clean the transmission shaft groves and the new hub and washplate should fix it. Your transmission still should hopefully be fine.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[mmitchell7]

Thanks Jake! Cleaned the transmission shaft groves as best I could and tapped the new hub in place. Applied a bit of anti-seize to the washplate shaft and slide that in place. Calibrated and was pleasantly surprised that it went through the calibration with no issues. I ran an auto test and NO Error Codes came up. We just ran a test load and the spin cycle ran correctly without rocking the machine. Nothing was soaking wet upon completion and no new error codes came up. Thank you very much for your assistance!

I am really glad I found this forum and thankful that there are folks like yourself, Jake, that take the time to impart their wisdom with the community. I was ready to throw in the towel a few times (and it would have been soaking wet) but your guidance really was invaluable and appreciated.

Take care,

Mike

 

[Jake]

Excellent Mike, good job. You got it working good again.

Thanks for the update and nice comments about us here!