aceforsale
Premium Member
- Model Number
- 253.28052803
- Brand
- Sears Kenmore
- Age
- 6-10 years
My freezer will not get above 60 degrees.
I have a Kenmore 253.28052803 model.
The freezer is in mint shape, well taken care of, and has only been used for about 6 years.
It just stopped working recently. The warm temperature light came on. I'm not sure if the door accidentally got left open but when I found it the door was closed.
The freezer was over crowded so this may of had something to do with it.
At first I just turned it off for 24 hours. I could hear ice melting and falling off inside but didn't open it to look.
Once a few days had past I ran a few phases of testing
Day 1:
- Validated the Freezer condenser coil had no frost or ice
- Validated no water anywhere inside or under the freezer
- Validated the Fan is working.
- Validated even though the fan is running, only about 60 degrees air is coming out of the vent.
- Validated I could hear the compressor running
- Validated no clicking sounds from the compressor.
- Validated the compressor is doing its normal vibration and is getting warm.
My first guess is an issue with the thermostat.
- I replaced the defrost termination/thermostat.
- I validated the new thermostat working in ice cold water for continuity. (Beeps)
- I tested the continuity through Freezer defrost heater. (Beeps)
Results: I left the freezer run for 24 hours, the temperature never got above 60 degrees.
Day 2:
I reviewed the Freezer compressor start relay and the run capacitor.
The relay didn't have any black powder or wasn't burnt.
I tested the continuity and it was working fine.
- Replaced the Freezer Compressor Start Relay and Run Capacitor anyways.
- Validated continuity through the parts. (beeps)
Tested Continuity of the compressor pins.
- Validated continuity on all pins (beeps)
Red (bottom left), black (bottom right) 12.2 olms
Red (bottom left), black (top) 6.5 olms
Red (top), black (bottom right) 6.1 olms
- Validated no dead shorts on all pins.
- Validated 120v AC power on the cable coming into the compressor.
Results: I let the freezer run for 48 hours. Still didn't get below 60 degrees after two days.
Day 3:
- Validated the condenser coil isn't frosted or frozen with solid ice.
Due to it not getting cold enough, this made it hard to validate a sealed leak.
I doubt though it is leaking as I would of smelled something.
Also it went from fully working to not working at all within hours. Not a slow lowering of temperatures.
The only two things I know of that I hadn't tried yet is:
- Replacing the Control Board (only because the part is out of stock everywhere)
- Replacing thermistor. Wasn't sure if it was needed. I didn't want to splice the wires if I didn't have to.
As of now, other than the control board, there isn't much left to replace to check.
Does anyone else have any ideas I could try?
I really like my freezer and would like to repair it.
I can provide photos if needed. Thanks
Changed above 60 degrees to below 60 degrees
I have a Kenmore 253.28052803 model.
The freezer is in mint shape, well taken care of, and has only been used for about 6 years.
It just stopped working recently. The warm temperature light came on. I'm not sure if the door accidentally got left open but when I found it the door was closed.
The freezer was over crowded so this may of had something to do with it.
At first I just turned it off for 24 hours. I could hear ice melting and falling off inside but didn't open it to look.
Once a few days had past I ran a few phases of testing
Day 1:
- Validated the Freezer condenser coil had no frost or ice
- Validated no water anywhere inside or under the freezer
- Validated the Fan is working.
- Validated even though the fan is running, only about 60 degrees air is coming out of the vent.
- Validated I could hear the compressor running
- Validated no clicking sounds from the compressor.
- Validated the compressor is doing its normal vibration and is getting warm.
My first guess is an issue with the thermostat.
- I replaced the defrost termination/thermostat.
- I validated the new thermostat working in ice cold water for continuity. (Beeps)
- I tested the continuity through Freezer defrost heater. (Beeps)
Results: I left the freezer run for 24 hours, the temperature never got above 60 degrees.
Day 2:
I reviewed the Freezer compressor start relay and the run capacitor.
The relay didn't have any black powder or wasn't burnt.
I tested the continuity and it was working fine.
- Replaced the Freezer Compressor Start Relay and Run Capacitor anyways.
- Validated continuity through the parts. (beeps)
Tested Continuity of the compressor pins.
- Validated continuity on all pins (beeps)
Red (bottom left), black (bottom right) 12.2 olms
Red (bottom left), black (top) 6.5 olms
Red (top), black (bottom right) 6.1 olms
- Validated no dead shorts on all pins.
- Validated 120v AC power on the cable coming into the compressor.
Results: I let the freezer run for 48 hours. Still didn't get below 60 degrees after two days.
Day 3:
- Validated the condenser coil isn't frosted or frozen with solid ice.
Due to it not getting cold enough, this made it hard to validate a sealed leak.
I doubt though it is leaking as I would of smelled something.
Also it went from fully working to not working at all within hours. Not a slow lowering of temperatures.
The only two things I know of that I hadn't tried yet is:
- Replacing the Control Board (only because the part is out of stock everywhere)
- Replacing thermistor. Wasn't sure if it was needed. I didn't want to splice the wires if I didn't have to.
As of now, other than the control board, there isn't much left to replace to check.
Does anyone else have any ideas I could try?
I really like my freezer and would like to repair it.
I can provide photos if needed. Thanks
Changed above 60 degrees to below 60 degrees
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