Rick, I had one do this a couple years ago in Parker, Arizona and I was puzzled myself and come to find out it was the optical sensor in the shift actuator that was starting to fail and it would spin fine in the 1st spin, but never in the final spin.
I replaced the shift actuator and Voila, FIXED.
So you may want to check for any error codes like F7E1 or F7E5 first. I'm posting your tech data sheet below that shows you how. Then do TEST#3A below when it fails to spin in the final spin.
Here's the shift actuator for your model:
Shift Actuator WPW10006355
Access/replacement Video included in the part link.
TEST#3A:
Remove the J16 connector from the main control board and ohm test across the J16, 1 and 2 Connector Pinouts.
Resistance should be between 2k to 3.5k ohms.
If values are correct, reconnect J16 and proceed to step 7
7. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the black probe to J16-2 (N) and red probe to J16-1 (L1). Activate shifter motor by switching between Spin and Agitate modes. Energize outputs using Manual Test Mode. MANUAL TEST MODE is on page 9 in the tech data sheet:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1psVH4VJFVWLEFo_Kf8Dwp9OlD8vPDuVG
IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed with Lid Lock enabled to run the SPIN and AGITATE tests.
NOTE: It will take between 4-15 seconds for the shifter to change states.
If 120 VAC is present, go to step 9.
Shifter Switch:
9. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect the black probe to J2-3 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J2-1 (Shifter Switch). In manual test mode, switch between Spin and Agitate modes. Voltage should toggle between 0 and +5VDC.
SPIN = +5 VDC
AGITATE = 0 VDC
--->If voltage corresponds to setting, go to step 10.
--->If voltage does not switch, go to step 12.
Optical Sensor:
10. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect the black probe to J2-3 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J2-4 (+13VDC).
--->If +13VDC is present, go to step 11.
--->If +13VDC is not present, go to step 17.
11. Activate Tachometer Verification Mode from the Service Diagnostic Test Modes (see page 5). Slowly turn the basket by hand. The 4 status LEDs should illuminate one at a time to represent basket RPM.
--->If the tachometer is not verified, go to step 12.
--->If the tachometer is verified, go to step 17.
12. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
13. Tilt washer back to access the bottom of the washer and the drive motor area.
14. Visually check the electrical connections to the shifter.
--->If visual check passes, go to step 15.
--->If connections are loose, reconnect the electrical connections and repeat step 1.
15. With an ohmmeter, check the harness for continuity between the shifter and main control using the pinouts in the following chart.
--- If there is continuity, go to step 16.
--->If there is no continuity, replace the lower washer harness and repeat step 1.
16. Replace the shifter assembly.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Replace shifter assembly.
c. Reassemble all parts and panels.
d. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Calibrate
If 120 VAC is NOT present, go to step 17.
17. Replace main control board Rick posted above.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Replace the main control.
c. Reassemble all parts and panels.
d. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify.
Jake
