Kenmore Washer 110.20702990 Spin Cycles

davenohio

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Jan 27, 2008
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ohio
Model Number
110.20702990
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
I have viewed other posts and do not see any other problems people are having like mine. SOMETIMES the washer will go through all the cycles just fine. But at other times when it come to the first or last spin, the washer drains but there is no spin. However when I open the top door i hear a loud clicking noise (I think that noise is the engagement of the motor) and then the drum rotates just a little bit. When I shut the top door, then the washer will spin. And like I say, this DOES NOT happen every time, but it is becoming a problem with water and electricity usage. Also i do not have to force the drum to start spinning. Not to mention being a pain in the back side. I had a technician out here and of course it worked just fine while he ran it through the cycles. But it is happening, and would like any direction at all, before i spend any more money on it.
 
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Jake

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Hi,

When you close your lid, do you hear a click sound just before its all the way down? Like an inch before its down?

I'll tell you the truth, I must of went out 5 times to a customer that had this exact same problem, I replaced virtually everything thats involved in the spin cycle: timer, motor, gearcase, clutch, and nothing seem to fix it, but you know the funny part, not once did it ever act up for me.

She always claimed it would act up and do it occasionally. All I remember saying is that it has about a 2 minute delay from after it drains to when it starts spinning.

I quit Sears and started my own appliance repair company, so I don't know if another tech. ever found the problem or not.

So I really would hate to speculate, sorry.

Hopefully another tech. or member thats seen this happen and was able to pinpoint it and fix it will let us all know the fix.

Jake
 

davenohio

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jake, thank you for the reply..the one thing stands out that stands out on this is the difference in the regular wash cycle (the door shut and the door switch closed) and the time the repairman was here he was manually going thru the cycles and i believe he was operating the door switch with a screwdriver or some other device..would that have any effect on this problem? I mean, what happens internally when that switch goes from open to closed and back?..do you understand what i am saying?
 

Jake

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Yes, I understand.

What he did, I do as well, we use a screwdriver to make the lid switch close so we can watch it when its spinning.

If your lid is making good contact with the lid switch and you hear that click sound just before it closes, then thats fine.

Jake
 

davenohio

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ok i understand about the lid switch. what i dont understand is WHEN it misses the spin cycle and i open the lid, why, then does it engage (thats when i see the drum "bump" and engage i assume) and then you shut the lid and it takes right off spinning. any guidance or help is greatly appreciated
 

davenohio

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doing some research on your site, what do u think?

jake or other tech, still am searching for an answer to my problem. i reviewed some other posts on here. i found a guy that posted a problem that he was having that was almost identical to mine, however he had a different brand of washer (maytag) his username is donPop and he posted on april 18, 2007 @ 7.14pm (if you want to read his post)..here is his last post:

Hi Jake,
Its not the thrust bearing or it would make a loud noise.
But I fixed it. It was the slide mech. under the motor, limiting the correct tension on the belt.
From the factory they put a film of lithium grease under this mech. and it got hard, limiting the sliding effect necessary to maintain the proper tension on the belt.
once I re-greased the assembley, now its working perfectly.
So add this to lyour troubleshooting techniqes.
Thanks again, you helped me think it through!

my question is does my washer have a slide mechanism? should i check the lid switch or anything else?

thank you
 

Jake

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Nope, that Maytag is completely different than yours.

I would really love to help, but like I said in post#2, I don't know what it could be.

Lets see if the other techs. can shed some light on this.

Jake
 

rickgburton

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OK, I think I know what it is. That's a neutral spin Transmission. Let me explain. In order to keep the washer from going into a spin with a full load of clothes and water, the clutch won't engage until the washer stops first. It's designed to stop after several minutes of pumping the water out first. This is done by the timer. The points in the timer are occasionally sticking together closed and not allowing the the washer to stop first. Replace the timer and I believe that will fix it.
 

TechnicianBrian

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My first thought is the timer. The timer will pause for a couple seconds at the end of the drain cycle to disengage the neutral drain on the gearbox (that is the same thing that happens when you open and close the lid). As techs, we have a nasty habbit of trying to force the units into failure by jumping through different cycles and different settings, but in doing so, we sometimes miss that one moment in time the unit fails. Watch the unit during your next few washes and see if you can get it to fail on one particular cycle. If it drains, but doesn't pause and begin to spin, DON'T OPEN THE LID, just let it run. If it is still draining after 10 minutes, I would say the timer contacts have arced and are skipping the neutral drain pause. You may find it only does it on one cycle, but will work on one of the others.
 
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davenohio

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hey jake, redbeard and brian..i appreciate your input..i will replace the timer and get back with you..thanks, i hope it works, dave
 

davenohio

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i do have a timer on order..while waiting the laundry still needs to be done..i still have the problem with the intermittent spin cycles, however i also noticed that sometimes in a middle of a spin cycle it will just quit spinning, but after i opened and shut the lid it would take back off spinning again,,and once it just reassumed spinning by itself..with this information, is this still in line with timer malfunction..and again i am only noticing problems on the spin cycle..thanks again, dave
 

davenohio

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i checked them and they are tight..reached up under lid and unit seemed secure..thank you
 

davenohio

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i just replaced the timer and the washer is doing the same thing..also i by-passed the lid switch (with jumper wires) and that did not help either..any other ideas or suggestions? this was with a new timer from sears direct..scratching my head here..will sears refund my money now that timer has been set in the machine?...again, WHEN (not always) the washer misses spin cycle, when i take the screwdriver out of the lid switch opening i hear a thump (like something engaging) and the basket moves the slightest bit, when i replace the screwdriver the washer spins..
 

Jake

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Nope Sears won't refund your money for the timer, if you would of purchased the timer from our links or banners here, you would get a full refund on the timer, even after you installed it, thats the big advantage to get parts here rather than Sears.

when i take the screwdriver out of the lid switch opening i hear a thump (like something engaging) and the basket moves the slightest bit, when i replace the screwdriver the washer spins..
Thats completely normal.

Like I said in post#2, I've replaced every part in that other washer that had the same issue you have, and went out 5 times, and she still claimed it was doing the same thing, and I ran it though many loads with her, and not once could I get it to act up on me.

Jake
 

TechnicianBrian

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As Jake said, that all sounds normal so by your description, everything is working mechanically. If you bypassed the lid switch with a jumper, the only thing left in that circuit is the timer. There must be a pause to deactivate the neutral drain (that is the clunk you hear) before it can spin. The timer (or you opening the lid) is what provides that pause. As long as all is as you describe it, I am still going with a bad timer. Try calling Sears and see what they are willing to do for you because given the info you have provided, its bad.
 

TechnicianBrian

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It is the pause created by the timer that allows the gearbox to pop out of the neutral drain and begin to spin, so since power is there and the motor is turning (because its draining) that would lead me to believe the motor is fine along with the wiring leading to the motor. Like I said before, if you can get it to spin by cycling the lid switch, the mechanical parts are working. If the it never begins to spin and just moves from draining back to filling, the timer has skipped the neutral drain pause. Its the timer.
 
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