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FIXED Kenmore Washer 110.28002010: Inconsistent performance during diagnostics

dr00

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Messages
10
Location
US
Model Number
110.28002010
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
First: thank you so much for everything posted here. Searching, I found tech papers for similar models and was able to do the diagnostics. HUGE! :)
This was purchased lightly used from a local Sears outlet store, maybe 10 yrs ago with a warranty.

I've always had issues with the oxi compartment not fully clearing and it sometimes took a *very* long time for the lid lock to release after hitting "pause". Tech came out and found no issues.
Lid lock issue sometimes was cured by unplug/plug in, but remained an issue.

Fulling owning responsibility, I washed a blanket that had previously had no issues. I repositioned the blanket several times to get it to fully wring out. So, since then it has had issues with balancing and spinning up to high RPMs. Occasionally it works perfectly, most times not.

Error codes I found initially, got the same after clearing codes and testing:
F7 E1 - Basket speed sensor
F7 E7 - Motor unable to reach target RPM

During automatic testing, I noticed the following:
Display:
12 (Motor spins): Lid lock light begins to flash
13 (Lid remains locked until basket stops): all 4 LEDs flashing
14 (Lid unlock/cycle complete): inconsistent LEDs and/or beeps

Manual testing:
09 (Low spin): lid lock light begins to flash, begins acting out-of-balance (2/5 times it did balance fine and spin)
10 (High spin): RPMs do not change (every test)
11 (Gentle agitation): sounds fine during first half of agitation cycle, second half is a bit louder
12 (Heavy agitation): noise gets a bit louder and it does seem to be doing the heavier agitation

What would you recommend to replace, or what further testing should I do?

And please tell me, bc the manuals I found weren't for my exact model: To open the control panel, do I push back on the ends and use a putty knife to release the clips?
Many thanks!

Dee
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
135,710
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Hi Dee,

Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. This is very important since most complaints start with the lid lock on and blinking, or the unit will not start and spin.

If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if
after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control, and most likely the wiring harness connections (although still check the BK wire from the shifter to the control). Remember, the timing wheel only turns in the transmission during the spin cycle.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.

This is proof that the shifter/sensor assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order here:
WPW10006355 Shift Actuator


Video included in part link to access/replace it.

For the off-balance issue--->the cause is the suspension rods and springs have worn out.

Here's the suspension rod spring kit for your model:
W10780051 Suspension Rod Kit


There is a video in the part link that shows you how to replace them.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

dr00

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Messages
10
Location
US
Thanks for the quick reply!

I cleared the codes again and ran the manual test for heavy agitation, it ran fine. I checked and there were no codes after this test.
After the manual spin test, yep! Got code F7 E1!

GIven the age of the machine, would you recommend a belt change while I'm at it? If so, give me your affiliate link so you get the credit for the sale.
A million thanks!!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
135,710
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Yes, it would be a good idea to replace the belt too.

Here's the belt for your model:
Drive Belt WPW10006384


Video included in part link.

Jake
 

dr00

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Messages
10
Location
US
Hi Jake!
This is what the guard and padding looks like. Should I be concerned or will this be ok?
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
135,710
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
After you replace the suspension rod spring kit it should not do that anymore.

Here's the belt guard for your model:

Did that belt pulley nut come off? If so, get loctite and put that nut back on tight.

Here's the belt pulley nut for your model:

Jake
 

dr00

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Messages
10
Location
US
Ah ok, good then! As long as that’s the case, I’ll leave it for now. No, the nut was fine.
Changed the belt, no issues really with the old one. A bit dried out, nothing more. Going to flip it back up, finish the suspension rods and I’ll post back when it’s done. Thanks!!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
135,710
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Ok, sounds good.:)

Jake
 

dr00

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Messages
10
Location
US
Looks like it’s back and working like always. Thank you so much, Jake! I will write up a testimonial soon. Also put a tip in your donations jar.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
135,710
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Excellent Dee, glad to hear that.(y)

Thanks for the update and for the tip and testimonial soon.:)

Jake
 
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