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Kenmore washer doesn't complete final spin cycle

anonymous_celebrity

Premium Member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
5
Location
California
Model Number
417.44142400
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
hello,

my kenmore washer doesn't complete the final spin cycle. i read on another thread in this forum indicating that changing out the controller assembly part number 134149220 will solve the problem. i would like to double check if this really is the problem. how can i verify this before i make a purchase?

also when i took out the controller assembly the part number on the label was 134285700 made by frigidaire. do the different part numbers matter? are these interchangable parts?

thanks for any help.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
39,801
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Does it stop in the middle of the final spin cycle or does it not go into the final spin cycle? Have you tried it on a different cycle like perm press or delicate?
 

anonymous_celebrity

Premium Member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
5
Location
California
Does it stop in the middle of the final spin cycle or does it not go into the final spin cycle? Have you tried it on a different cycle like perm press or delicate?

It begins the final spin cycle and spins infinitely. The dial does not move once it gets into that position.This happens on any cycle I put it in.

I guess I should also mention that during any rinse phase, as the drum is turning it sounds different than before. Like something is loose or wobbly. But I looked at the belt and it looks ok. Not sure if the board has anything to do with this.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
You'll need a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) set to read VAC. Set the timer to the start of the heavy wash cycle and allow the washer to run for 3 minutes. Measure the voltage drop between pin #5 of the ten pin plug on the speed control board and pin #5 of the six pin plug on the speed control board. If you read 120 VAC replace the speed control board. If you read 0 VAC replace the timer.

Motor Control Board 134149220 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
Motor-Control-Board-134149220--00712075.jpg

Circuit Board & Timer 134343500 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
Circuit-Board-Timer-134343500-00995129.jpg
 

anonymous_celebrity

Premium Member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
5
Location
California
hello rick,

thank you for the info. but i still have some questions.

if i am checking pin 5 (on the 10 pin plug) and pin 5 (on the 6 pin plug) on the control board, this would mean i have to disconnect both male plugs. why would i have to turn on the washing machine? at that point the control board would not have any connection to the circuitry....am i misunderstanding something? also if i am running the washing machine for this test, can turn off the water?

also is there something i need to check with the fuse?

thank you again. i appreciate your time and help.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
39,801
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Don't disconnect the plugs. There is enough room to test either from the back of the connector or reposition the MCU so you can take readings in front of the connectors. The test has to be done at the begining of the heavy wash cycle and needs to run for three minutes. If you turn the water off it'll just hum at you and won't run. The fuse is good.
 

anonymous_celebrity

Premium Member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
5
Location
California
i performed the test as described. during the 3 minute wait, i went ahead and performed the voltage drop check, it was reading 118-120 volts. as the 3 minute mark approached the voltage dropped and went down very close to zero. this only held for a second or two because the washing machine proceeded to the next action and the voltage jumped right back to 120. wasn't sure if there was a problem.

also in the washing machine were electrical schematics and instructions for testing the motor. i checked the resistances in the control board as described in the schematics and when it was supposed to be 3 meg ohm, i was reading about 1-2kohm across all points. so i thought my problem was the board.

i purchased the board in the link you provided knowing i could return it for a refund if it was not the solution. i received and installed it today and my washing machine still has the same problem.

also i found that now my drum knocks very loudly. it seems to spin off balance. and when i push on the drum from the inside, it is very squeaky and feels loose(?). that is the best i can describe it. when the timer broke initially i heard a loud bang and suspected it was related to the drum. after this testing with the new control board today, i think i made it worse. so i think i have 2 problems now.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
39,801
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
i found that now my drum knocks very loudly. it seems to spin off balance. and when i push on the drum from the inside, it is very squeaky and feels loose(?)..... initially i heard a loud bang and suspected it was related to the drum.
Check the rear spider and see if that broke. Read this: http://www.applianceblog.com/mainfo...-load-very-loud-banging-noise-final-spin.html And this one: http://www.applianceblog.com/mainfo...allery-fwt445-washer-made-horrible-noise.html
 
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