FIXED Kenmore & Whirlpool Ice Maker LED Blinking Codes

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jnapo

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Rick

How long does the exposed wire on the jumper have to be? I have a piece of wire with about 3/4 inch exposed wire on both ends. I jumpered the H/T and did not observe any movement. I also jumpered the V/T and did not get any water through the line.

Also when I first opened the door the lights on the optics did not operate. Ater playing with the ice maker door the lights on the optics started working.

Your thoughts.

Thanks Joe
 

jnapo

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Rick

I believe the door switch is operating based on the light in the freeze turning on and off when I push it.

Do you have any comment on the jumper not working for the H/T test on the ice maker?

Joe
 

rickgburton

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Also when I first opened the door the lights on the optics did not operate.
Sounds like either a bad connection on one of the boards or the optics are bad
 

jnapo

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I have removed both boards and cleaned the connections and reconnected the boards. Would bad optics result in the Harvest Test not working. I jumpered the h/t points on the Ice Maker and expected to get movement on the ice maker and water to the ice maker but never got any action in this area.

I do not have any problem replacing the parts I just would like to get the correct parts so that I can have the beast working and not having to try multiple things.

Do you know of a PDF service manual that I could get my hands on that could help in diagnosing this issue?
 

rickgburton

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NOTE: If your refrigerator uses the Optics, you’ll also have to tape the emitter flap back and not block the space between the emitter and receiver. You will also need to hold the light switch in until the ice maker starts then remove the wire. Close the freezer door. The ice maker will call for water right before the end of the harvest cycle. If it fills with water see if it will make ice and dump the cubes.
 

jnapo

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Rick

Thanks for the last post, I did not realize that the test required the unit to believe the door and optics were in the normal operational state. I will give it a try this evening.
 

jnapo

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Rick

I performed the test with the door light switch taped and the ice bucket sensor taped. I jumpered the H/T points and did not observe any finger movement in the ice tray. Nor did it fill the ice tray.

This morning I opened the door and looked at the optic lights. The first time I opened the door the optics light did not work as expected. The second time when I opened the door the optics light worked.

The question now based on the information gather is, is it time to order parts and what parts do I order?

I believe I can order them from the site that allows me to return in 30 days if they do not repair my ice maker. If there is any additional test that I need to perform before ordering parts please let me know.

Joe
 

metallicajake

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You can hit the water valve solenoid with 110vac direct. Eliminate the water valve and if you're sure the optics are good, that just leaves the ice-maker.
Rick-

I've eliminated the valve (shoots water from the fill tube just fine when 120VAC applied), and the optics are good. I tore into the motor assy yesterday and found that when you apply 120VAC to the motor directly, it runs no problem. Also I checked for voltage at the disconnect in the freezer itself, which shows 105+VAC. When you reassemble into a whole assembly though, I get nothing. Perhaps the thermostat has died in the unit?

I was unable to find an entire ice maker assembly on the site you've linked for some other users on this forum. Do you have a suggested ice maker assembly to order?

Jake
 

jnapo

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Rick

That I got the new board today. It behaves the same as the old board in that after replacing it when open the door the light did not turn on.

The new board came with a nice piece of paper that provided the following information:

If you open the door and the status LED is out, a possible cause is that the Icemaker is in the Harvest mode. To test if the ice maker is in Harvest mode Press the freezer door switch and close the flapper. If the Icemaker is in Harvest mode the status LED will flash once every second.

Sure enough the new board is in Harvest mode. It stayed in Harvest mode for 2 hours no water added. So I decided to return the original boards to the freezer and they behave the same way. The original boards indicated that the Icemaker is in Harvest mode. And it is staying in Harvest mode.

I know that the Icemaker water value operates correctly and that the icemaker water line is clear.

So what would make the Icemaker remain in Harvest mode. The fingers in the icemaker continue to rotate in an attempt to harvest ice.

I believe the components of the system without wiring are the optics, water value and icemaker. Let me know if there is any other components that need to be checked. If not then what is next, the Icemaker itself?

Is there a way to trigger the icemaker so it tells the water valve to open and fill the tray? If that does not work, is there a way to test the cabling from the icemaker to the valve? Finally, how does the icemaker know when to turn off the water, is it a timed thing or is there some way to sense when it is full?

Thanks for the help and I hope the information that I provided from the Instruction Sheet for Ice Maker Optics Diagnostic Procedure 2002 Board Design is helpful.
 

sethi100

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Folks need help... I just replaced the transmitter and Rx boards. Before replacing basically the ice-maker was continuously making ice and the LED on the emitter board was not working. After I replaced the boards I do see the emitter LED working (2 flashes) but when I block the receiver end I get a solid RED LED. Problem is that now there's no ice. I have even defrosted the the freezer section, as there was a lot of ice build up. But still there's no ice.
The diagnostic paper that came with the new boards mentions to short (jump) H & L in the freezer to imitate "harvest" mode for the water to fill in the ice-maker. But can't seem to locate H & L points.

Any suggestions or trouble-shooting tips will be much appreciated.

Thanks,
 

rickgburton

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mjunem

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No water running through tube

Hi Jake,

I cannot seem to get any water to run through the tubes to the ice maker. I have the solid red light when the flap is closed. So I disconnected the "John Guest" connector to see if there was anything blocking the hose and found nothing. I blew through the tube and all is clear. The water flows great through the hose next to it the runs the in-door water dispenser. I'm just stumped as to why there would be no water at all running into that hose. Any ideas?

Thanks,
June
 

rickgburton

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Sounds like the water valve might be faulty. Use a cheater cord and hit the coil with 120 VAC direct and see if it fills the ice maker.
 

wildblue

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I have a similar problem - whirlpool ED2SHAXQ00 - not producing ice. The light on the right wall does the 2 blinks / 1 sec / 2 blinks. Do I need new IR? I tried cleaning them, still nothing. Is the part number mentioned here earlier the right one for my ice maker?

Edit: The fingers are pointing towards me when I open the door, and it seems like there's ice in the maker, it just won't harvest. Any way to bypass the IR to make sure everything else is working right?
 
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Jake

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Ok, so you did the steps I mentioned in the first post of this thread? And the LED not staying on steady?

Do this again to make sure:

Step#1: Open the freezer and view the status led

(STATUS LED)

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED)

POSSIBLE CAUSES: The flapper door on the emitter is blocking the beam or the optics are faultly.


Step#2: Press the emitter flapper to unblock the optics beam

(STATUS LED)

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED)

POSSIBLE CAUSES: The optics are faulty. Replace the emitter and receiver boards.

If the LED is on steady: The optics are working properly.

Here are the boards you can order, they come together in 1 kit with instructions(Video Included):
Whirlpool 4389102 Ice Level Power Control Board Kit - AppliancePartsPros.com


Jake
 
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