I replaced my transmitter boards and now I have the steady LED when i hold the flapper down. How long should I wait without it making ice before I can be sure that there is also something else wrong, such as the ice in the line, or even a broken ice maker? Note: The transmitter boards were not working previous to this (the LED never came on no matter what i tried).
To force cycle the ice-maker, remove the cover over the module and locate holes “T” and “H”. Take a small piece of wire bent in the shape of a U and short “T” and “H” together. The ice-maker will start the harvest cycle. Wait about 10 seconds and remove wire. The Ice maker will continue through the cycle. At the end of the harvest cycle the ice-maker supplies the coil on the water valve with 110 VAC.
NOTE: If your refrigerator uses the Optics, you’ll also have to tape the emitter flap back and not block the space between the emitter and receiver. You will also need to hold the light switch in until the ice maker starts then remove the wire. Close the freezer door.
1. LED IR test shows optics OK. SOLID light with flap closed, blink twice pause blink twice with flap open blocking the IR beam.
2. Swapped leads on water solenoids, both are working fine.
3. Disconnected hose from ice maker solenoid and blew through it to make sure it wasn't frozen or clogged, no problem, not clogged.
4. After reading all pages in this thread I came to the conclusion the ice maker was bad, ordred new one, replaced, no ice.
5. Shorted T and H together with wire, nothing happens on either the old or new ice maker
6. Checked power cords for continuity no problems there.
OK, try running this test. If that doesn't work, try bypassing the optics:
ADVANCED OPTICS IDI TEST
Tape the emitter door back to unblock the beam. Disconnect the power to the machine. Slide the ice maker out and remove the cover and locate holes “T” and “H”. Take a small piece of wire bent in the shape of a U and short “T” and “H” together. Restore power to the machine. Close the freezer door to align the optics and wait 5 seconds. Open the freezer door and see if the ice maker has started a harvest cycle. If not, the ice maker needs to be replaced.
If the ice maker has started a harvest cycle, remove the jumper wire and reinstall the ice maker or be prepared to catch the water fill. Close the door and go behind the refrigerator and listen for the water valve to turn on. Immediately disconnect the power after the water fills. Wait 5 seconds and restore power (Make sure the freezer door is closed). Wait 5 seconds and open the freezer door and watch the status LED. 4 pulses repeated once > relay is defective, replace optics. 3 pulses repeated once > relay and optics are good but the ice maker is not being sensed, replace the ice maker. 2 pulses repeated once > optics are defective. Steady light for 5 seconds, all is good.
OK, tried first test and nothing with either ice maker. Pulled the optics board and jumpered the connector as pictured and finally progress, the icemaker started the harvest cycle and once done the water solenoid opened and filled my cup with water. I will order a new optics board. I'm a little bit miffed though that using the LED codes listed in post one showed my optics to be good and thus I spent $100 on an ice maker I didn't need. I wished I would have had that schematics you provided right from the start to be able to test further and rule out the maker as the problem.
Thanks a bunch Rick for helping, I was totally stuck.