KESS907SSS04 Kitchenaid Slide In Range Problem, bake element

mawaw

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Mar 2, 2019
Messages
7
Location
USA
Model Number
KESS907SSS04
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
Last week my wife noticed that the bottom bake element on our oven had quit working so I ordered a new one and installed it yesterday. On this model oven it has what is referred to by some as the "hidden bake element." You have to slide the oven out away from the wall, take all the back covers off and then the element slides out through a tiny slot at the bottom after you have to cut and move all the insulation out of the way. A real pain and very bad design.

So after replacing it and installing all the covers I then plugged it back in the wall and flipped the breaker when I saw something arc what appeared to be inside the oven so I immediately flipped the breaker back off. When I tried to open the oven door to see if I could tell what had arced the door was locked.

This morning I decided to flip the breaker back on and see what would happen. I first removed all the back covers again and disconnected the new bake element. It did not arc and the clock came on waiting for me to set the time. The oven door was unlocked now.

After that I turned the stove top burner knobs all on to see if they worked in which none of them did. I did not see any sign where something arced and shorted out such as a smut spot on the inside of the oven but I noticed there might have been a slight burnt wire smell.

Does anyone know what might have happened and what is now preventing the stove top from working?
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
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check power supply

If NO elements are heating, check the fuses/breakers in the house panel and ensure the full 240 volts is geting to the appliance.
 

mawaw

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It did not trip the breaker when it arced yesterday. I had to flip it off. I just checked continuity on the thermal fuse on the back of the oven and apparently the fuse is blown so whatever shorted yesterday blew the fuse. Does the thermal fuse control the stove top burners also? I am trying to figure out what could have arced yesterday thus blowing the fuse because if I install another fuse in it chances are it will blow it again until I fix the short problem which is causing the arc.
 

Dan O.

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Does the thermal fuse control the stove top burners also?
A thermal fuse would usually be just for the oven but someone would need to check the unit's actual wiring diagram to be certain. I don't have access to it.

I am trying to figure out what could have arced yesterday thus blowing the fuse
I would suggest you start by double checking the work you did.

JMO

Dan O.
 

mawaw

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Thanks for the wiring diagram. I had been searching for one on the internet and could not find one. Hopefully it can help figure my problem out.
 

Dan O.

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Check for power

There doesn't look to be any safety devices, fuses or anything else that would prevent all the surface elements from functioning at the same time. The only conclusion I can come to is the full 240 volts is either not getting to the appliance or maybe a main power connection in the range (like possibly where the cord attaches to the range wiring) has failed and is no longer allowing full power to flow through it.

Has anyone actually confirmed the full 240 volts is getting to the appliance?

Dan O.
 

mawaw

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Location
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I didn't get a chance to work on it today but I will check it tomorrow and start backtracking the current at the junction box where the power cord attaches to the oven. But something does seem strange to go from a bottom bake element not working to the stove top burners not working now.
 

Dan O.

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mawaw; said:
something does seem strange to go from a bottom bake element not working to the stove top burners not working now.
All that needed to occur is one leg of he 240 volt supply ceasing, to cause your symptom. That can easily occur due to a short.

i suggest someone look ino the cause of that short before restoring full power.

JMO

.
 
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mawaw

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This is what I tried this morning. 1. First thing was to check the wall plug and junction box on back of oven where the power cord attaches for 220v and everything was okay there. 2. Then I pulled the brand new bake element out to look at it and make sure it did not short out and to check continuity on it again. Everything seemed to be okay. 3. With the bake element out I turned the breaker on to the stove to see what would happen.

All the stove's burners worked and the broil element heated up. With the bake element still out I checked current on both wires to the bake element and had 120v on each one. So I thought maybe everything was okay now so I turned the breaker off and re-installed the bake element. When I turned the breaker back on there was some kind of information on the front display panel and the door was locked again and none of the stove's burners heated up.

So every time I flip the breaker on this information is displayed, Kitchen Aid and the number 30 below it in the top left corner and then across the bottom is, " AM18 UI26 EEKEO 220." I googled those numbers for Kitchenaid oven codes and could not find anything. Does anybody know what those codes mean?
 

Dan O.

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Power supply problem??

mawaw; said:
" AM18 UI26 EEKEO 220." I googled those numbers for Kitchenaid oven codes and could not find anything.
I did (see the following link).

I do not know what that message is suppose to convey. It is NOT a KitchenAid error code. It may be an internal control CPU fault message? I don't know if even Whirlpool (KitchenAid) would know what it means. Only the actual control manufacturer (which is not Whirlpool) might know. :/

LINK > Tyler . I have a KitchenAid Range with

The above link suggests a problem in the power supply to the range. I really don't understand why connecting the bake element would cause it and not operation of any of the other elements unless it or its power supply is shorted. Check the bake element you installed for a short to ground (pretty unlikely). Check all the wiring from the element to the control for shorts to ground. Maybe it was damaged in the initial incident??

I checked current on both wires to the bake element and had 120v on each one.
You checked each wire from where to where, to get the 120v reading?

Dan O.
 
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mawaw

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There is a junction box at the bottom left corner on the back of the oven where the power cord connects. There is a group of wires that run from the junction box up the left side and go under the stove top I guess going to the control board at the front.

There is another group of wires to the right of that coming from underneath the stove top, I guess from the control board that run down the back supplying current to the upper broil element, fan and the bottom bake element.

I checked current on the 2 red wires that come down the back connecting to the bake element. I grounded my meter to the oven frame and then touched each red wire getting 120v on each wire. I have attached a picture of the back of the oven.

Oven.jpg
 

Dan O.

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Bake element still in circuit??

I checked current on the 2 red wires that come down the back connecting to the bake element. I grounded my meter to the oven frame and then touched each red wire getting 120v on each wire. I have attached a picture of the back of the oven.
If you didn't disconnect at least one of the wires from the bake element, you may just be reading the same hot leg on each side of the circuit due to the connection through the bake element.

You should also probably be checking to a neutral and not just a ground. A stray neutral can result in a lot of strange current flows.
 
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mawaw

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Making progress. This morning I went back to basics and checked current at the junction box where the power cord attaches. Only had 110v on 1 side. What I figured out was that as I was sliding the stove around to get to the back the plug on the power cord was pulling out just enough to give me 110v and not 220v.

The plug looked like it was all the way in but wasn't. So now I got the stove burners and the broil element working but for some reason now I only have 110v going to the bottom bake element. It warms up but doesn't get hot enough without the other 110v.

I had 220v going to the bake element at one time yesterday which makes me think it might be a short in that wire.

The only problem is I don't see a way to get to the other end of the wire to check continuity. I pulled the front cover off which has the display in it but the wires plug in to something back to far to get to without somehow pulling the whole top of the stove off.

Any suggestions?
 

Jake

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If your wiring all checks good, then the problem is likely the appliance manager, look at the strip circuit in the tech data sheet for BAKE.

L1(BLACK WIRE) goes to T4-3 on the appliance manager, which is the K3 BAKE RELAY, then goes out the T3-3(RED WIRE), then it goes to K18 DLB RELAY 1. You can check for 240 volts across those wires, BE CAREFUL not to touch anything else when working with LIVE electricity, when your done testing always unplug or turn the breaker off to your machine.

Here's the appliance manager board for your model:
Oven Control Board WPW10181438


Jake
 
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