FIXED KFIS25XVMS00 KitchenAid ice door chute constantly opening and closing no cooling in fridge

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Smdugan40

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Nov 26, 2012
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Location
Indiana
Model Number
KFIS25XVMS00
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
1-5 years
This began about a week ago. The ice door chute would begin to operate (slowly) all on its own. At first it was only for a few minutes at a time, but now does not stop at all. We just last night discovered that the fridge was no longer cooling (after buying $300 in groceries lol)
When the chute is doing its thing, there is no readout on the door display nor can I control any functions while it's happening.
i removed the panel and disconnected the wire that seems to power the chute, but then I can hear what sounds like a solenoid clicking on at the back of the fridge.
im not sure if it's the circuit board going bad, or something mechanical that's gone bad and at $250 for a circuit board I'd like to make sure that's what's wrong before plunking down the cash
any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks,
Sean
 

rickgburton

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The problem is most likely the electronic control. Unlike more conventional models these high end machines require you run service tests to narrow down the problem. The service tests are on your tech sheet. The tech sheet will be either behind the lower kick plate or inside the control housing. If you order the part from the link I give you and it doesn't fix the problem, you can return it for a full refund less shipping:

W10740220 Cntrl-Elec
whirlpool-cntrl-elec-13053103sp-ap4391703_01_m.jpg


If you can't locate the tech sheet let me know and I'll see if I can locate one for you.
 

Smdugan40

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Indiana
Thank you sir, I will try to find the tech sheet. Does the part you've listed go into the front control panel? Or is it on the rear circuit board? I ask because the picture does not look like the circuit board on the front control panel
thanks,
Sean
 

Smdugan40

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Messages
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Location
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Sorry, I looked at the alternate pic, and it is exactly like the circuit board of the front control panel.
 

Smdugan40

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Location
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Thank you very much Rick. I'm in a pickle, in that I can't run any diagnostics because the control panel doesn't work while the fridge is doing this, and it is now constant and not shifting back into normal usage mode.
would your advice be to just go ahead and replace the circuit board? It looks like I would only be out shipping if this is not the correct fix
 

Smdugan40

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Messages
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Location
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Hey Rick, just wanted to let you know the part arrived today, I installed it, and the fridge is working like a charm!
Thanks again so very much for your input and assistance, it was invaluable!
Sincerely,
Sean Dugan
 

Smdugan40

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Messages
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Location
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Hey Rick, I sure hope this message finds you. As I stated I replaced the control board 3 days ago, with the part you linked for me. It worked good as new until this evening. It is now back to doing the exact same thing. The ice door chute is slowly opening and closing again, and I cannot run diagnostics from the tech sheet while it is doing this. I am hoping it will stop soon and hopefully I can run diagnostics on it. I guess it's possible the new control board I bought was a lemon, but as I stated it worked perfect for 3 days. I am thinking that there is something wrong that is causing the control board to go bad. What that would be, I'm really not sure of.
Before I break down and call a repairman, as I really cannot afford one, should I attempt to get a replacement on the new board, and see if this cures the problem for more than 3 days, or do you have any other advice you can give me, to try and narrow down what the issue might be?

Thanks,
Sean Dugan
 

rickgburton

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OK my friend, although it's possible the new part could be bad, I don't think it would have the exact problem if that was the case. This issue keeps you from entering the service test mode so I'll take you as far as I can. This machine is difficult to diagnose when the service test mode is working and I'm standing in front of it. This could also take some time so if you have a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) and you're up to it, I'll give it a go. First, I need to know exactly what is working and what is not working. Like compressor, fan motors, displays and lights. Then start with the most obvious first. Unplug the machine and disconnect all the wire connections on the board you just replaced. Wait a minimum five minutes before reconnecting them. When you restore power, if the machine starts working, I would look for a short or pinched wire going to that board. Check the wire connections under the hinge cover for a loose or bad connection. Measure the voltage in the outlet the machine is plugged into. If the machine does start working, before entering the service test mode, follow the instructions on your tech sheet for programing mode and compare the program code on your model/serial number tag to the one that is stored. They should match. If they do, enter test mode. There are about 40 tests so skip the ones not related to your issue. Lets start with that and see if this boat floats.
 

Smdugan40

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Ok, basically, when the ice door chute is not constantly opening and closing, everything on the fridge works as it should, and when I put the new board in, it worked like new for 3 days. It started again, after my daughter got ice 2 days ago. Shortly after she got ice, the chute door began its slow opening and closing (as in click, open an inch,click open another inch, click open some more, then spring shut) once it begins that, nothing on the control panel functions, there is no readout, and pressing or holding any buttons only causes the panel lights to blink and then stop. There is no cooling or the sound of any fans moving while it is doing this. The only thing that seems to work is the interior lighting. If I disconnect the control board, I can then here a clicking coming from the control panel in the rear of the fridge, clicking at the same pace, and interval as the door chute would be doing, if the front panel was still connected.
i used my multimeter and tested the outlet, and I'm getting 118.5 volts, so I don't think the outlet is the problem. After waiting more than 5 minutes, and reconnecting the board and powering it up, there is no change, the chute door once again begins it's slow opening and closing.
Since the new board worked fine, until my daughter got ice, I tend to think something about using the ice dispenser is causing a problem in the board, but I'm not positive on that.
i hope this info can give you some insight as to where to guide me next, in trying to fix my problem.

Thanks,
Sean Dugan
 

Smdugan40

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Messages
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Location
Indiana
Also as far as I know, that was the first and only time anyone got ice since the board was replaced.
 

rickgburton

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After several hours of playing detective, I no longer think the new board is causing the problem and the ice door opening and closing is the result of a main board failure or a broken/bad connection between the two boards.

Measure the voltage between J6-1 and J6-2 on the main control board. You're looking for +12 VDC. Then measure the voltage between J1-1 and J1-3 on the dispenser board for the same +12 VDC. Touch the black meter test lead to the GR/BK wire for both measurements.

That Iceland main control board uses pulsed DC voltage and some less expensive meters won't be able to measure it. If the DC voltage is the same for both measurements, replace the main board. If not, check the wires between the two boards.

My diagnosis is based on the fact that nothing else is working. We're just checking only one component that's not working, the dispenser board.

Since the ice door is opening and closing, It's the only component I know that is getting some kind of voltage. Sean, I'll be honest with you, this is only my best guess. (I'm not wrong very often or at least not more than once on the same machine if that helps...LOL)

Main Control Board WPW10310240
Main-Control-Board-W10310240--01200276.jpg
 

Smdugan40

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Location
Indiana
Ok Rick, I hooked the multimeter to J6-1 and J6-2 with the ground (black lead) on J6-1 and the red lead on J6-2 set on DC voltage. The reading was in constant flux, bear in mind that as soon as the fridge is powered up, the solenoid (I believe) is constantly clicking on and off. The readings ranged from 3.05V to 12.26V as best I could tell (they were jumping around quickly). I then hooked the meter up to the front control board to J1-1 and J1-3 with the ground on J1-1. Those readings too were in constant flux, and ranged from 3.25V to 12.01V.
So with this info, what do you suggest? Still in favor of replacing the main (rear) control board? Or does the fact that there was no constant reading allude to a different problem?
Again. I truly and deeply want to thank you for your advice and effort in regards to my situation, I am extremely grateful for your help. I am a Millwright by trade, and am used to diagnosing and repairing mechanical problems on a variety of equipment, but I am very weak when it comes to electrical issues, and don't have a ton of experience with home appliances at all.

Thanks,
Sean Dugan
 

rickgburton

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OK Sean, we're almost home. One more test/voltage measurement should give us the answer. To make sure the problem is not coming from the power cord, or wires, measure the voltage between J1-4 (red wire) and J1-8 (white wire) Your meter should indicate 120 VAC. If the voltage is correct, that would indicate the main Iceland control board is getting the correct supply voltage but no output voltage or incorrect output signals. Do you agree? By the way, your testing has been perfect! It helps tremendously when the person on the other end of these threads knows what they're doing and can follow directions! (If the voltage is correct, I'm 100% certain the main control board is the problem).
 

Smdugan40

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Messages
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Location
Indiana
Thank you, I'm just muddling through as best I can
just for my clarification, am I putting the test leads on J1-4 and J1-8? Or am I testing J1-4 and comparing it to the reading of J1-8?
if the leads are going onto J1-4 and J1-8 does it matter which one I place the positive and negative test leads on?
if I'm comparing, which would be the best spot to put the ground (negative) lead on?
 

rickgburton

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am I putting the test leads on J1-4 and J1-8? ..... does it matter which one I place the positive and negative test leads on?
Yes, that's correct. Set your meter to measure AC volts. When checking AC volts it doesn't matter what test lead goes on what wire. That's because the Current is Alternating between positive and negative sixty times a second.
 
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