KFIS25XVWH1 KitchenAid French Door Refrigerator/Freezer Not Cooling

[HammerAndTongs]

Model Number

KFIS25XVWH1

Our KitchenAid French door refrigerator stopped cooling two days ago.

Based on advice given when the low-voltage board failed a few months ago, I checked the voltages on the main board. Using a small analogue meter, the voltages across J1-4 and J1-8 and J6-1 and J6-2 look to be about 120V AC and 12V DC respectively. I'll bring my digital meter home and check again.

I don't hear any sound from the refrigerator at all. The lights are on. That's it. What should I be checking next to see why it's not getting cold.

Incidentally, it seems the problem co-incided with the unusually cold weather we had. The unit stands in a corner of an unheated room (our kitchen). I don't think it's below freezing, but it might be close to it. I think it may have acted funny on other occasions when we had very cold weather (for the mid-Atlantic, that is).


Since the low-voltage board flaked out a couple months ago, the unit has worked otherwise. It sometimes makes ice, and once, after my wife gave the door a smack, the display and controls worked briefly.

 

[Jake]

Lets Go back to this thread: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/68851-KFIS25XVWH1-Bad-Control-Board

Rick said:

If you have 12 VDC at the dispenser board and the dispenser board is not working correctly, bad dispenser board.

The dispenser board is No Longer Available: WP13053103SP Electronic Control Board

And tell me what you meant by this:

Time to start visiting the used appliance dealers.

Where you looking for a used refrigerator? Or used dispenser board?

Because that dispenser board is the problem of why its not cooling now.

Jake

 

[HammerAndTongs]

I did look for a used dispenser board, but needle in haystack. I thought I remember Whirlpool telling me that the unit would still cool even if the dispenser board was bad, but maybe there was a misunderstanding.

Anyway, the dispenser board does acts different every day, but the unit has always been cold. I completely removed the dispenser board, and plugged the fridge back in. Nothing happens.

I wanted to find out how to test if the capacitor is good or bad or if the relay is good or bad. Those are both affordable repairs. But if the dispenser board is the brain, then the refrigerator has been running on borrowed time, and I guess we have to get another.

I spoke with my appliance repairman this morning, and he's suggested getting another refrigerator.

 

[Jake]

Yes, I agree, its time to go refrigerator shopping.

The average life of refrigerators is only 8-12 years now, so another new refrigerator will get you another 8-12 years.

I suggest Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana.

Jake

 

[HammerAndTongs]

Would you be so kind as to post the wiring diagram for this unit if you have it?

Based on what happened, I think this is basically a temperature control problem. When the compressor runs, the unit is super cold.

I can get a 110v 10amp temperature controller for around $10. That will switch the compressor on/off and it has a programmable delay to protect the compressor from cycling. I presume I would use it to control the freezer section and power that fan that's next to the compressor.

This unit has a separate fan that blows cold air into the refrigerator section? Then I can control that with a second STC-1000. Total outlay $20. I've done this with the spare fridge I keep in my shed.

My biggest reason for wanting to do this is that the unit weighs over 300 pounds. I had to build a track across my lawn to move it inside the kitchen. Then I remodeled the kitchen and replaced the double patio doors with a single one that's too narrow for this fridge.

 

[Jake]

Yes I have the tech data sheet wiring diagram, here it is: https://www.dropbox.com/s/et5635yj9vn00k4/Tech%20Sheet%20-%20W10238850.pdf?dl=0

Yes, that's worth a try, let us know how it goes.

Jake