KFIS29PBMS02 Kitchen Aid Ice Maker Problems - Ice not producing to any degree & cant get 2nd digit of error code on diagnostic read out

[jschroeder]

Model Number

KFIS29PBMS02

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

6-10 years

Initially my ice maker stopped working completely, now it only produces a very small amount of ice, whether on regular or 'max ice' cycle. I attempted to run a diagnostic on the motor and went to service code 59,, however only the 1st digit of the code pops up. I let it sit for a good 3 minutes waiting the 2nd digit, but it never populated.

The water works fine, aside from the volume isnt properly calibrated, which wasnt a feature we ever really used anyhow. We are on a well and at times the pressure can be down, but the fridge on the whole and the ice maker had been functioning fine for the last 2 years, which is when we bought our house.

Any insight would be most appreciated.

 

[Jake]

I attempted to run a diagnostic on the motor and went to service code 59,, however only the 1st digit of the code pops up. I let it sit for a good 3 minutes waiting the 2nd digit, but it never populated.

That's very odd, never seen that happen before.

Is the deli User Interface display acting up too? there is a service bulletin involved with this problem on your model. There have been some problems with the deli display U/I(user interface) control shorting out and causing these odd problems your having now.

Erratic dispenser and/or ice maker operation
Deli Control display changes
Door ajar light and/or beep won’t turn off
Erratic User Interface operation

--->What we do first to confirm if that's the problem is to disconnect that deli display U/I control board and then see if everything starts working fine again.

Pages 59 and 60 in this service book: https://www.dropbox.com/s/oq1qp0yieqypp0u/R-114 JOB AID W10444924.pdf?dl=0 Tells you how to access it to disconnect it.

Here it is for your model:
Control Board W10807593


Its in-stock here, if needed: W10807593

Let us know if that fixes all the other issues once you disconnect it. Unplug your refrigerator first before disconnecting it.

 

[jschroeder]

The deli display was out as well and I disconnected it a few days ago as I came across that possible fix on another thread here. I disconnected it, unplugged fridge for 10 minutes and turned back on, but no improvement.

I’m running the diagnostic with the deli display remaining disconnected. Given I can’t get a complete read out on the diagnostic my thought was to hook the deli display back up and re-run it, but feel like I’m grasping at straws a bit.

 

[Jake]

I've not run across this problem, hopefully another tech or member that has can shed some light on this for us.

Other than that, you will need a KitchenAid tech. to come out and see what's going on. Contact KitchenAid to come out at 800-422-1230, then the KA tech can call the FACTORY HOTLINE from your house to investigate this problem.

 

[jschroeder]

thank you

 

[Jake]

Your welcome.

 

[jschroeder]

Hey Jake,
Well the ice issue you helped me with never resolved itself but that's a smaller issue that I've put off to the side. I woke up this AM to my freezer not being cold. Popsicles put in last night never froze and frozen fruit/vegetables partially thawed. Do you happen to know the error code I should check to see what the potential issue is. Fridge is completely fine temp wise and water is pouring out ice cold from our dispenser.

 

[Jake]

Do you hear the freezer evaporator fan motor running inside the freezer when you open the freezer door? On some models you have to hold the door switch in for it to run with the door open.

Do you see any frost build-up on the back panel inside the freezer?

If so, I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

DO--->Service Test - 6: Defrost Heater/Bi-metal
NOTE: If bi-metal is open, it will need to be bypassed for heater to operate. Heater should be on. Display will be blank until a valid reading is displayed (01 = bi-metal closed, 02 = bi-metal open).

Put it in diagnostics and see if your defrost thermostat(bi-metal) is working properly, and the defrost heater should come on in that Service Test 6.

Make sure the defrost thermostat is covered in frost before you do the diagnostics. Because it has to be frosty for it to be closed and for the heating element to come ON.

If its not frosty, Watch this video:

Fridge Warm? Defrost Thermostat Testing, Troubleshooting | Repair Clinic

Freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm? This video provides information on how to test a defrost thermostat on a refrigerator. Learn more from the experts at Repair Clinic.

www.anrdoezrs.net

Leave it in the ice water for at least 5 minutes before ohm testing it

The defrost thermostat on this model only comes with the evaporator fan motor.

Here it is below, its the black round part with the metal clip on it.

Evaporator Fan Motor WPW10514110


Let us know what you find.

 

[jschroeder]

Hey Jake,

My fridge which you've provided advice on above, had been working ok, but the ice making never really came back to any meaningful level. The other day, the temp in the fridge and freezer both appeared to drop significantly. I opened up the fridge evaporator cover and found it was essentially a giant block of ice, which I defrosted yesterday. When it came to the freezer, it was somewhat iced over in the upper right corner, but nothing really on the coils (see attached), I defrosted the one chunk of ice all the same. The units themselves and fans on both appear to be running fine. I ran the diagnostic you noted above #6 and it came back 01.

I have the fridge and freezer set to max cool, which I believe is 33 and -5 respectively. I defrosted fridge and freezer last night around 6pm and this AM the temp read 14 degrees in freezer and 39 degrees in fridge. I placed the cover back on the freezer, but left the fridge cover off to see what the coils were doing. Below is a pic of what the fridge coil looked like this AM.

I did notice that there was a good deal of pet hair under the fridge in the trap, which I did clean out yesterday as well.

I had noticed another post you were on where you recommended the purchase of this part and the owner said it worked, so I have this on order. I assume that even in the best case scenario, this helps the fridge but I cant imagine it helps the freezer. Any thoughts on where I should go next on the freezer.

I'm admittedly uncertain as to whether an ice buildup in either the fridge or freezer would lead to lower overall temps, so I might be going in the wrong direction entirely here and may have to bite the bullet and call in a repair tech.

 

[Jake]

When it came to the freezer, it was somewhat iced over in the upper right corner, but nothing really on the coils (see attached)

That looks like a sealed system problem. The entire evaporator coil should have a even frost pattern on it from Top to Bottom.

I defrosted fridge and freezer last night around 6pm and this AM the temp read 14 degrees in freezer and 39 degrees in fridge. I placed the cover back on the freezer

Last night you put the FREEZER evaporator cover back in place? And its only 14 degrees? It should be 0 degrees.

 

[jschroeder]

Correct the freezer evaporator cover was screwed back into place and the digital thermometer I used registered 14 degrees. I assume that 12 hours was sufficient time for it to get down to zero or sub-zero, which is how it was programmed.

 

[Jake]

I assume that 12 hours was sufficient time for it to get down to zero or sub-zero, which is how it was programmed.

Your assumption is SPOT ON, it should be 0 degrees or lower after 12 hours while the evaporator cover is in place.

 

[jschroeder]

Assuming your assessment is correct and factoring a replacement value cost of around $2,500 for a new fridge, would a tech call for a repair make sense at this point. From what I can gather this isnt exactly a cheap fix.

If I were to resign myself to a new purchase, could I load my current fridge w/ refrigerant to improve its functionality while I shop for a replacement?

 

[Jake]

would a tech call for a repair make sense at this point. From what I can gather this isnt exactly a cheap fix.

That is correct, sealed system repairs often exceed the machines valve.

If I were to resign myself to a new purchase, could I load my current fridge w/ refrigerant to improve its functionality while I shop for a replacement?

That I don't know, it could also be a compressor or restriction issue.

 

[jschroeder]

think I'm just going to bite the bullet on a new one. I sincerely appreciate you taking the time on multiple occasions to lend some insight here. Thank you!!!

 

[Jake]

Anytime!