The problem is likely the ice maker itself, I've already replaced two of these same ice maker kits for the no water issue in Parker, Arizona, and it fixed them both, then I had one in Blythe, CA. and it fixed that one too for the NO WATER issue.
You have to replace the wiring that comes with it as well, the instructions tell you how to do it.
You can also Force cycle the ice maker and measure the voltage at the water valve solenoid at the end of the harvest cycle. If your meter indicates 120 Volts AC for about 7 seconds, replace the water valve. If your meter indicates less than 100 Volts AC replace the ice maker.
Read post #5 on HOW TO JUMP T and H to do a FORCE CYCLE in this thread:
I have a 5 year old Kitchenaid refrigerator Model: KFXS25RYMS5 and the icemaker started giving problem couple of months back. It started with less number of ice cubes and then started thinning out the size of ice and finally it stopped completely. I removed the icemaker and didn't find any trace...
Just remove the electrical connector from the ice maker solenoid side of the water inlet valve, then put your meter probes in that electrical connector, then cycle the ice maker and watch the meter to see if you get 120 volts towards the end of the ice maker cycle.
This video shows you how to access the water inlet valve inside the refrigerator section:
This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the water inlet valve on a Whirlpool refrigerator. Learn more from the experts at Repair Clinic.
The smaller water line tube goes to the ice maker. So the ice maker side solenoid is the YELLOW one, put your meter probes in the electrical connector that goes to the YELLOW solenoid.
I was only getting 48 volts to the ice maker side of the water inlet valve solenoid when I cycled the ice maker. I ordered this exact same ice maker kit FOR ALL THREE of my service calls and it fixed them all.