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Kitchen-aid fridge KSBS25INBL00 wont make ice

gmselec

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
12
Location
monroe mi.
Model Number
KSBS25INBL00
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
More than 10 years
This ice maker has stopped several times and starts again for no reason, happens every couple months.The optics seem fine, red light when flapper closed.
Tried to run test cycle-jump t 7 h--nothing happens. I bought a replacement ice maker,same thing. I need a schematic to see what the plug wires are going to-in chcking plug for voltage I only found 60vac between a couple of them,no combination gives me 120v..Some help would be great.

Added complete model number
 
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Jake

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Messages
123,958
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
On your model low voltage to it is monitor voltage, so don't worry about the low voltage.:)

Several of the posts indicated measuring a low(35 to 96 VAC) voltage at the input to the motor control between points “L” & “N ”or between the input connector white and black wires. Since logic would dictate that this input voltage to the control motor must be 115VAC for it to operate that this is a problem. Since this input is from the optics receiver board the problem must lie within the board and it is defective. This is not the case and THIS VOLTAGE IS NORMAL AND CORRECT. It is a monitor voltage and is always present (except during a harvest). I came to the same wrong conclusion.

Jake
 

gmselec

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Dec 17, 2019
Messages
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Location
monroe mi.
There are 4 pins going to the icemaker-do you know which pin is for what and what the voltage should be--at some point it needs 120v -does the 120v go thru relay on optics board
 

Jake

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Pin 3 black wire is line voltage at the receiver board.

Read my post 6 here:

Jake
 

gmselec

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Messages
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Location
monroe mi.
Does anyone have access to a schematic--changed optics boards -still no ice--I dont like just guessing
 

Jake

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This is very simple, what's hanging you up here?

IDI 02.jpg
 

Jake

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Post your complete model number , then I can give you the schematics.

KSBS25 is just a partial model number. Read the model number from the model number tag inside the refrigerator section on the upper walls or ceiling.

Jake
 

gmselec

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
12
Location
monroe mi.
model # KSBS25INBL00
I dont have 120v at L & N--thats the issue
thanx for info on previous post -
what does the temp range need to be for thermostat
 

Jake

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Thanks! I'm attaching your schematic below.

I dont have 120v at L & N--thats the issue
Check the in-line fuse on the ice maker wire harness. If that fuse is blown you will never get power to the ice maker.

This is how:
Ohm the in-line thermal fuse, its located on the wiring harness to the ice maker. If that in-line thermal fuse is open, then you will never see any voltage to the ice maker.

It comes integrated with the ice maker wire harness, in case you need to order it:
WP2187467 Harness, Wiring


Its the black wire, ohm that black wire for continuity with a multimeter.

what does the temp range need to be for thermostat
16 degrees F. or lower, preferably under 10 degrees F.

Jake
 

Attachments

  • W10142175 Refrigerator Tech Sheet.pdf
    821 KB · Views: 43

gmselec

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Location
monroe mi.
thanx for schematic,got it printed on 11 x 17 so I can follow it-been out of town havent got to look into it
The icemaker feed comes from (electronic control) I presume that is main control board?
If the output from the board is good where would I look for wire routes for bad wire?
 

Jake

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No, look at the wiring diagram, where it says MODULAR ICE MAKER, white wire goes to the power cord, black wire goes to the receiver board pin 4.

Like I said
Ohm the in-line thermal fuse, its located on the wiring harness to the ice maker. If that in-line thermal fuse is open, then you will never see any voltage to the ice maker.

Jake
 

gmselec

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OK,just getting back to this /been out of town and then trying to catch-up.
So got110v to bl and wh at icemaker -no voltage at tan wire ---jumped T and H on timer --nothing
I have changed the optics board --the ice maker ---and the main board--have had a lot of problems with this fridge in 2 yrs ive been here so I have spare parts.
No voltage on tan wire to icemaker-ohmed tan wire and it is good from main controller to icemaker--ohmed thermal fuse -it is good.
any info would be appreciated
 

Jake

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The TAN wire goes to the water inlet valve, you will NOT get voltage on that wire until the ice maker cycles and then signals the water inlet valve with 120 volts to fill the ice maker.

So, if you have replaced both the optics and the ice maker, one of them is still bad.

Its very simple, look at post #6 and use a jumper wire to jump pin 3 and pin 4 on the receiver board and see if the ice maker starts to cycle, remember you must hold the door switch in AS WELL when you jump pin 3 and pin 4 on the receiver board for the ice maker to start to cycle.

Jake
 

gmselec

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Messages
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Location
monroe mi.
I did that already-nothing happened thus -I have tried the many other things
So the answer is -the 110ac goes thru the receiver board on bu/yl and bl/wh to icemaker--that is all that goes to icemaker-I presumed the tan wire was coming from the main control board to the icemaker with another voltage signal to icemaker and solenoid .
On post 6 you provided an icemaker test point breakdown -the contacts are going or coming from unknown sources,is there another schematic?
HVAC and appliance schematics are a joy
Hard to believe I have 2 bad ice makers
Thanx
 

gmselec

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Messages
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Location
monroe mi.
So,again the icemaker randomly started working for a minute and stopped---I have 106v (which is lower than 115v at source) at L 7 N test points on icemaker--jumper T & H and voltage goes away --this would presume to mean there is a bad wire somewhere and cant handle any load. Any experience with this issue and where wires may travel - or spots to look?
Also why does door switch need closed ? looks like power goes down bu/yl to door switch and directly to emitter board ,not thru contact--contact goes to dispenser control-what does door switch do to start cycle?
 

Jake

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I posted the wiring diagram/schematics in post #9. That is all there is.

It's very simple so don't overthink it. 120 VAC at the optics and <120 VAC or 0 VAC at the icemaker, bad optics, period. That statement stands true no matter what parts are replaced, including new optics.

It sounds like you have a broken or pinched wire, that's all it can be at this point.

Jake
 
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