FIXED Kitchen aid KSSC42QKS01 not cold enough and ice maker issues after some defrosting.

[zumpa21]

Model Number

KSSC42QKS01

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

More than 10 years

I have an intermittent issue with the pathway between the fridge and freezer frosting closed. When it occurs, I remove as much ice as I can with a water spray after removing the cover in the back of the freezer. I did this Friday a night and then the ice maker stopped making ice and it’s had trouble keeping the freezer section cold enough. It dropped back down to normal this morning (3 days after) but now getting warmer in the freezer compartment. Would turning it off for a few minutes help? Can it hurt? I also jumped the ice maker this morning to make it run through a cycle. It won’t release the frozen ice in the tray. Right now, I’m more concerned with the freezer than ice maker.

 

[Jake]

I have an intermittent issue with the pathway between the fridge and freezer frosting closed.

I'm not understanding what you mean by that.

I need to see a photo or video of this issue first. Attach it to your next post or you can upload the video to Youtube and post the Youtube link here. Or share your video per Google Drive, Dropbox, or Microsoft OneDrive and post the share link here.

 

[zumpa21]

Jake,
The return vent from the fridge to the freezer causes icing on the right side of the freezer coils. As it increases over time, the ice eventually fills the return vent preventing air circulation.
Friday night, I took off the coil cover in the rear of the freezer. I removed some ice to open the path.
The fridge usually takes some time to get back to the proper temp. This time, the freezer wouldn’t get down to temp over a few days and today would only get to 20. When I opened it again this afternoon, the was frost on the outside of the coil cover and more behind the cover than I’ve seen before. I did a more complete job of removing the ice. I think it was just too iced up to pull air through the coils. The first picture is the return vent where the icing starts.
And after reading other posts, I understand the ice maker won’t kick on until the freezer get cold enough for a period of time.

 

[Jake]

Yes, I see now, you have a auto-defrost problem causing this issue.

I'd first ohm test the defrost thermostat, read below.

Here's the multimeter I use:
Multimeter DM10T


You can get a multimeter at any hardware store too.

You would need to ohm test the defrost thermostat for continuity while its still covered in frost. Unplug your refrigerator first! If the defrost thermostat goes into the quick disconnect electrical connecter, just unsnap that quick disconnector and ohm test it in that quick disconnect electrical connecter. Its very easy, just follow the wires back from it, should be the PINK wire and BROWN wire, then put your meter probes in each of the two wires in the electrical connecter and see if the meter numbers move. Set the meter on the lowest ohms of resistance.

If the defrost thermostat is not frosty, you can still test it in a cup of ice water, watch the video below. You'd need to keep the defrost thermostat in the cup of ice water at least 5 minutes before ohm testing it.

Here's your (bi-metal)defrost thermostat for your model:
WPW10225581 Defrost Thermostat


Watch this video to ohm test your defrost thermostat if yours is NOT frosty:

 

[zumpa21]

Jake,
Had a tech out yesterday and the defrost thermostat was faulty. He didn’t unplug it though, just powered off inside the fridge compartment. It’s better and staying colder but not as cold as it’s set for.
New or related issue…at times, the inverter (I think) cycles on and off a second or two at a time over a period of minutes. Faulty inverter or something calling for the inverter to function is faulty?

 

[zumpa21]

Jake,
And now it’s back to how it was before. The back cover in the freezer is covered in ice.
What could be the cause of no defrosting? Bad heat element? Is there a defrost timer?
Bad control board?

 

[Jake]

Did the tech ohm test that defrost thermostat why it was frosty?

If the defrost thermostat ohms good(shows continuity) while frosty, then either the defrost heater or control board is bad, this model doesn't have a defrost timer. The control board controls the defrost cycle rather than the defrost timer.

Defrost heater:
Heater, Defrost WP2006750


Here's the control board for your model:
W10823805


Watch this video to ohm test the defrost heater:

 

[zumpa21]

He did ohm test while frosty.
Would it be a bad idea to replace the control board with a previous version? And would a bad control board cause my wonky inverter board on/offs?
I salvaged one from a similar Kitchenaid and the part number shows as being replaced by the one you listed.
I also read another KA fridge thread about doing a hard reset. Might that be worth a shot?

 

[zumpa21]

I ordered the control board from the link you posted. Also called the tech back and we’ll see what happens.
Hope the new board solves my issues.

 

[Jake]

Did the tech completely defrost the evaporator coil with his heat gun, or hair dryer, when he replaced the defrost thermostat? That's always a must to do.

 

[zumpa21]

No. The evaporator coils were not totally defrosted. He said the defroster would kick on soon and defrost the coils.
I spoke with him today and he did mention that he tested the heating element. He didn’t think it was the main board because that would have given me issues with not enough power to lights in the fridge. Ive had issues with the ice maker that I’ve never seen before. The rake stops at the 7 o’clock position almost as if the mold heater isn’t getting enough power causing the cubes to not get ejected.

Looking at another thread, someone had an issue with a power switch causing their issues.
I’ll keep updating the thread until I get a resolution.

 

[Jake]

No. The evaporator coils were not totally defrosted. He said the defroster would kick on soon and defrost the coils.

There's too much frost to begin with, that's why whenever you change out a defrost part, you HAVE TO defrost the entire evaporator coil first, see what I mean?

If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat ohm's good, then only part left that controls auto defrost is the main control board, plain and simple.

 

[zumpa21]

Jake,
I did an almost total defrost yesterday with a small clothes steamer. I’m not sure if I got all the ice from behind the coil but will keep an eye on it and see what happens.
I also took a look at the main power switch. There were some scorch marks on the wires from the switch to the control board. I pulled the wires off and cleaned off some oily residue on one of the terminals.
The temp has held at 1* and the ice maker started working again after the defrost.

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good, good find.

Yes, keep us posted.

 

[zumpa21]

I think it’s finally completely fixed. The tech came back to install the new control board and after that, tested the defrost and now the defrost heater wasn’t working. He was back this morning to install a new heater. The old one had a big crack in the bottom of the element. Maybe I didn’t need the new board but I’m hoping it’s good for another 20 years.
Thanks for your help Jake.

 

[Jake]

Yes, it sounds like your back in business permanently now.

Thanks for the update!