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KitchenAid 5 drawer refrigerator KRMF706ESS01 evaporator fan not running. Replaced with new one and still not running.

oldred

Premium Member
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Oct 13, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Missouri
Model Number
KRMF706ESS01
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
1-5 years
The refrigerator stopped cooling but the freezer is still working and the ice maker is still blowing cool air. I cleaned the condenser coils, which had a heavy dust build up. After that I checked the evaporator and it was a chunk of ice which I thawed with a hair dryer. The fan wasn't running so I figured it was the fan so I replaced it along with the other two parts connected with it. Installed the fan and it still doesn't blow. The evaporator still cools down and starts to frost over but the fan won't kick on. Any ideas on what to check next?
Thanks for any help.
 

rickgburton

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Here's the part you need:
 

oldred

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Missouri
I received the board yesterday and just replaced it. The fan still won't run. Any ideas what I'm missing?
 

rickgburton

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Any ideas what I'm missing?
New fan and new board just leaves the wires for the fan in between the two boards. I'll see if I can find a wiring diagram sb
 

Jake

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Here's the wiring diagram for his model Rick, I'm attaching it below.

Jake
 

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  • Tech Sheet - W10844356 - Rev A.pdf
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rickgburton

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Locate the P14 connector on the main board and check for 12V across pins 2-4 and pins 3-4.
 

oldred

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There was a wiring diagram on top of the refrigerator. If I'm reading this right the 3 wires from the evaporator fan are red, black and blue, They transition to the following colors. #8 blue to yellow, #7 black to red, which run to p14 on the main control board. The other wire #3 red transitions to tan which splices with 2 other wires on splice 4 and becomes tan/red where it plugs into another board supplying power. I tested for continuity on the first 2 wires and they were good though the #7 black to red wire was hard to get continuity on. I guess it was a connection I was using. The last wire #3 red that transitions to tan then to tan/red I could never get continuity on. I never could get anything. Could the problem be at splice #4?
 

rickgburton

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Why are you checking for continuity??
Locate the P14 connector on the main board and check for 12V across pins 2-4 and pins 3-4.
Set your meter to measure VDC. You can go in through the back of the connector
safety pin 500x250.jpg
 

oldred

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Messages
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Location
Missouri
I thought I was supposed to check for continuity when you said it could be the wiring harness. I checked voltage between 2-4 and 3-4 and got 7.7 volts on both. Then no voltage when I rechecked 2-4. Is the 2-4 circuit going to the freezer? I saw it said fc evaporator fan and the other is rc evaporator fan. I'm new at this so please forgive all the questions.
 

rickgburton

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Go into service mode and rus test #3

Service Test - 3 Evaporator fan motor and air baffle motor

• Control the RC & FC Evaporator Fan Mtrs. by depressing SW3 (01 = Both Fan Mtr. OFF, 02 = FC Fan ON).

• Depress SW3 once to advance. Step 3 will flash quickly and advances to steps 13/23 very quickly. The result is RC Fan on, Pantry Air Damper on. Pantry Air Damper will open and close automatically.
(13 = Damper Open, 23 = Damper Closed. Verify air flow inside pantry on left hand side when damper is open, 912 displayed). Air flow in pantry will cease when 23 is displayed.

• Depress SW3 to advance to last step. (04 = Both RC & FC fans on).

Then, on the main board measure the voltage across P14-1 to P14-2 = 12.7V P14-3 to P14-4 = 12.7V P14-6 to P14-7 = 14V
 

oldred

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I put the unit into test mode and run test 3. The freezer fan kicks on and off when it should and the damper works but the RC never comes on. I left it on 04 and checked the voltages and got 12.9 to 13 volts on the 3 test you requested.
 

rickgburton

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Then, on the main board measure the voltage across P14-1 to P14-2 = 12.7V P14-3 to P14-4 = 12.7V P14-6 to P14-7 = 14V
It looks like we have a slight discrepancy. This is from the tech sheet Jake posted:
Snapshot_1.jpg

This from the tech sheet I have:
Snapshot_2.jpg

There was a wiring diagram on top of the refrigerator.
Can you post it here? What does yours say?
 

oldred

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The sheet from on top of my refrigerator says schematic DWG. No.: W10822345 Rev.B. Also taped on the sheet are the following numbers W10844356A Assy: W10844355A and W10844356A Assy: W10844355A. My sheet is like the one from Jake with 12.7 volt. I'm not sure how to post the sheet.
 

rickgburton

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oldred

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I tested the p-14-3 to p14-4 (yellow and red wires) inside the refrigerator and I still had 13 volts. How do I test the 14-7 tan wire inside the refrigerator? Red test lead on 14-7 and black to ground on metal frame in back of refrigerator? How do I test the fan? It is a new one. It was the first thing I purchased.
 

rickgburton

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inside the refrigerator and I still had 13 volts.
Sounds like the new fan motor is bad. Each motor has three wires. VCC is power, Ground is just that, ground, and PWM (pulse width modulation) or speed control. I copied this from the wiring diagram Jake posted and cleaned it up a bit to make it easier to understand. I put the VCC for the RC fan in the right spot. P14-7 is a tan wire and is common VCC to all the motors. P14-6 is a green wire and is ground. When the machine has power there's a constant 14 VDC across pins 6-7.

Snapshot_1.jpg

By varying the frequency of the voltage pulse you change the speed (PWM). You can't measure PWM voltage but you can measure the effective voltage (12.7V) Both motors get the same effective voltage but the FC fan runs at 2700 RPM and the RC fan only runs at 940 RPM. Service test 3 supplies 12.7 VDC output voltage to PWM wire and GND wire on each motor. If you have 13V across the yellow wire and red wire at the fan motor and it won't run return it for a replacement.
 

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Jake

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I agree with Rick, where are you getting the FRESH FOOD EVAPORATOR FAN MOTORS at?

Here's the FRESH FOOD EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR for your model:
Evaporator Fan Motor W11087438


Jake
 

oldred

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Missouri
Before I ordered a new fan I set the refrigerator to service test 3-4 and ran a bypass wire from the tan 14-7 junction on the back of the board around to where the tan wire plugs in the wiring for the fan. The fan started running. There appears to be a break somewhere on the tan wire. How do I run a new wire?
 

oldred

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Location
Missouri
Good news and bad news. So the pictures below show what I attempted. I spliced a larger white wire with the brown 14-7 wire on the back of the board and cut the sheet metal with some tin snips and removed the insulation and poked a small hole for the bypass wire. Hooked it up on the other side and everything started working. The refrigerator has been running around 34 hours now and has cooled off to around 38. Much better than the 58. I have not installed any of the air baffles yet inside the refrigerator. Now the bad news. When I was cutting the sheet metal back I nipped the a metal foil that I'm pointing to with the pen in image 3. When this happened I had a hissing noise for a few seconds. It wasn't the coolant line because the unit is cooling fine and the hissing noise was just for a few seconds. I noticed a small thermocouple sized tube next to the refrigerant line and I wonder if that is what I cut but everything appears to be working on the refrigerator. I haven't tore the foil loose yet because I don't want to cause another problem. I didn't want to put everything back together and then have a problem develop in a few days so I thought I would ask your opinion on what might be going on here? I appreciate any help.
 

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