KitchenAid Built-in Refrigerator KSSS42QDW05, Defrost timer rotation question.

[silved2]

Model Number

KSSS42QDW05

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

More than 10 years

Hello from Denver, Thank you in advance for considering my questions. In my quest to determine if my defrost timer is working properly I put a red ink mark on the gray part that you can insert a flat head screwdriver into for manually moving the timer into or out-of defrost mode. Picture below describes what I’m trying to say in words. Is it fair to assume that this red dot would rotate clockwise over time on its own if it was working properly? Over the weekend I replaced a noisy evaporator fan motor to deal with a big ice build up. It seemed that once I put everything back together that the defrost timer made several 360 degree rotations on its own and now it does not rotate anymore unless I put it in the position with the screwdriver to force a defrost cycle it moves a smidge more once the defrost cycle is over and then that’s it, no more rotation. Also, how hot does that heating element get? Is it safe to touch with a glove to see if it is warm or not? Furthermore, any tips on how to gain access to this defrost timer would be appreciated to since it sits on top of the refrigerator unit. It looks like maybe the whole unit slides out once I take the grill off? Picture also included. Thank you kindly.

 

[rickgburton]

rotate clockwise over time on its own

Whirlpool defrost timers are either Continuous run or Accumulative run. Continuous run means the timer motor is is energized whenever the machine is plugged in. The cam in the timer rotates 360° every 10 hours. Accumulative Run means the timer motor is energized whenever the compressor is running. The cam rotates 360° every 10 hours of compressor run time. Your defrost timer is accumulative run. If your refrigerator is maintaining a good temperature and cycling properly ten hours of compressor run time might take 20 hours.

The defrost timer contacts rest on the cam The cam rotates, opening and closing the defrost contacts and the compressor contacts. To check if the defrost timer motor is getting the correct voltage, measure between the defrost terminal and timer motor terminal.

The replacement timer comes with a flying lead, one side of the timer motor. Push the flying lead over the defrost terminal for your machine.

Whirlpool WP2183400 Timer (AP6005994) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Timer WP2183400 / AP6005994 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

how hot does that heating element get?

Very! You'll be able to tell if it's on without touching it. There's only three components that make up the defrost system, element, thermostat and timer. When there's a defrost problem, check the element and t-stat for continuity. If they check good replace the timer.

how to gain access to this defrost timer

Remove the top grill and the cover the timer is connected to. I think you only need to remove the screws on one side.

 

[silved2]

Hello Mr. Burton,
Thank you for this comprehensive detail and analysis. Absolutely fantastic. Here is the current update. After I submitted my original question the timer did rotate 360° once, I heard the compressor stop, heard the sizzling water, witnessed the orange glow of the element and figured that everything was fine now that I had a grasp on the Accumulative run cycle that you taught me. Figured I was being impatient waiting for that timer to move to a new position.

So now it’s been 40+ hours and the timer position remains the same exact position as it was after the above defrost cycle ran. The freezer and fridge are currently keeping perfect temps. Is it fair to assume that this situation led to our original ice build up and that that scenario is about to repeat itself again?

I have not checked the voltage on the timer yet just because accessing it on this top-mount unit looked a little bit painful and I thought that if you were suspect that the indeed the defrost timer is the problem, “being stuck”that I would just move forward with replacing it? Or any chance it’s the thermostat? Thank you!

-David

 

[rickgburton]

Is it fair to assume

I never assume when it comes to appliance repair. The timer motor should be energized whenever the compressor is on and since it worked once we know it is. It could be a weak timer motor or worn spot on the cam. It sounds like whatever it is, is intermittent.

 

[silved2]

Thanks Rick for the reply. I have replaced the timer with P/N WP2183400. So far so good. One variance I wanted to ask you about was the replacement timer is an eight hour cycle versus the 10 hour cycle that I took out. Reference pictures attached. The other thing that you mentioned was that mine would have a flying lead. I did not find one of those during the replacement process. Any concerns with these two items? Thank you.

 

[rickgburton]

No, it should work just fine

 

[silved2]

Hello again,
So the mystery continues here. Both the thermostat and heating element have continuity. I’ve completed the replacement of the Defrost timer. The defrost timer did complete one 360° revolution that also included the defrost cycle with appropriate heating as noted by the orange glow on the element. Unfortunately, it’s just “one and done” as the New timer will not advance forward anymore, same pattern as the old timer that I just took it out. Is there a main control board that tells the defrost timer to “energize” as you mention above? Or is it possible that my new defrost timer is a lemon? Interested in your next ideas for this fun puzzle. Thanks much.

 

[rickgburton]

OK, first let's check if that's the right timer. Yours should be accumulative run. Unplug the timer and measure the timer motor resistance across timer motor terminal and the defrost terminal on the timer. You should read a few ohms. Your meter should show 1/open across the common terminal and the timer terminal.

 

[silved2]

I was not able to get any resistance readings on either the newly installed timer or old timer between terminal 2 and terminal 3 as directed above. My meter did show 1/open across the common terminal and the timer terminal (1&3). I did have continuity and resistance confirmation for both 1&2 and 1&4 when the rotary dial was clicked into its respective position. Not sure if you are interested or not, I have attached the two schematics from my system that were found in the upper unit as part of the tech sheet. I’m not sure about the accumulative run and there was no flying lead found on the old timer or in the package with the new timer either. Thank you kindly. -Dave

 

[rickgburton]

I was not able to get any resistance readings on either the newly installed timer or old timer.......My meter did show 1/open across the common terminal and the timer terminal (1&3).

Set your meter on a higher ohms scale like 1K or 10K. There's a timer motor in there and it's connected to the timer motor terminal and either the common terminal for continuous run or the defrost terminal for cumulative run. If you can't find the timer motor the timer might be bad.

I’m not sure about the accumulative run and there was no flying lead found on the old timer

The original timer and the replacement timer won't have the flying lead. They are set up at the factory as cumulative run. Whirlpool developed the replacement timer with the flying lead to take the place of both the continuous run timer and the cumulative run timer by connecting the flying lead to common or defrost. Whichever one you need.

This is the exact same diagram on your schematic. I took out some of the wires that weren't necessary to make it easier to explain. Your schematic shows the defrost timer, the four numbered terminals and contacts inside the timer and the timer motor. One side of the timer motor is connected to terminal #3, timer motor terminal. The other side of the timer motor is connected to the #2, defrost terminal.

The timer motor is 120 VAC so it doesn't matter which side of the timer motor is + or which side is -, it's always going to run the same direction. Remember, cumulative run timers only energize the timer motor when the compressor is running. L1, power cord black wire, connects to the #1 common terminal. When the compressor is running the contacts between #1 and #4 are closed so the current path is into the timer at the common terminal (#1) and out the compressor terminal, (#4) to the cold control. When the cold control is calling for cooling the contacts in the cold control are closed and L1 comes out of the cold control (red wire) and goes to the condensor fan motor, the compressor, and the timer motor terminal (#3) on the defrost timer. Now the #3 terminal is the L1 (+) side of the timer motor. If you understand that current takes the path of least resistance, the contacts between 1 and 2 are open and the defrost heater is not energized so the defrost heater is used like a wire and becomes the path for the neutral side to the #2 terminal. Now the timer motor has 120 VAC and rotates. When the cold control cycles off the timer motor loses L1 and the motor stops.

When the timer goes into defrost the contacts close between 1 and 2. Now the #2 terminal becomes the L1 (+) side of the timer motor and the #3 terminal becomes the neutral (-) side of the motor thru the condensor fan motor. When the fan is not energized it becomes a current path. Out of the timer #3 red wire into the fan motor thru the fan motor and out the white wire to the neutral side of the power cord. According to your wiring diagram you should read the timer motor across #2 and #3

How confused are you? I can keep going. LOL

 

[silved2]

I like the education and I am continuing to study this homework! I am going to try to get a more sophisticated multimeter because I’m still not getting any readings with what I have here. Photo of what I’m using attached, as you can see it does not offer a 1K or 10 K setting. …..Random question for you is earlier in the process of dealing with the original ice build up I did replace the evaporator fan motor. Is that motor also 120 VAC, so it does not matter which is + or which size it is negative? Asking because since I’m not making any progress on this project I thought maybe I wired it Incorrectly when I put the new one in. At the time of the installation either way I connected the evaporator fan ran the same direction but I didn’t know if I went back in and reversed them if any of these other problems with the defrost timer not rotating might go away or that’s a nonissue?!

 

[rickgburton]

it does not offer a 1K or 10 K setting.

K=1000 Some meters mark the scale 1000 or 1K others use 2000 or 2K. It's the same ohm range.

evaporator fan motor. Is that motor also 120 VAC,

Yes, AC stands for Alternating Current, 60 cycle means the current alternates between +120V to -120V 60 times a second. On any AC device you have +- on one side and +- on the other side If you switched the wires you would have the same thing.

And with that information, my friend, School Is Out!. I don't have the time to teach refrigeration repair 101. Especially for free...LOL I'll help you fix your defrost problem. You should have all the information you need to fix the defrost problem now. If you run into a problem and have a question, just ask.

 

[Relwood]

I like the education and I am continuing to study this homework! I am going to try to get a more sophisticated multimeter because I’m still not getting any readings with what I have here. Photo of what I’m using attached, as you can see it does not offer a 1K or 10 K setting. …..Random question for you is earlier in the process of dealing with the original ice build up I did replace the evaporator fan motor. Is that motor also 120 VAC, so it does not matter which is + or which size it is negative? Asking because since I’m not making any progress on this project I thought maybe I wired it Incorrectly when I put the new one in. At the time of the installation either way I connected the evaporator fan ran the same direction but I didn’t know if I went back in and reversed them if any of these other problems with the defrost timer not rotating might go away or that’s a nonissue?!

Hello,
Did you ever resolve your problem?
I have a built-in KSSS48MDX00. Similar issue with the defrost timer. Replaced with new one, but not turning. Also not cooling at all. Compressor running. Evap fan running. Even Replaced the control board. Is there anything I am missing.
Thank you

 

[silved2]

Hello,
So mine is running now. I ended up replacing another new defrost timer and while I was in there again. Furthermore, I went ahead with replacing the defrost thermostat because I was tired of taking it apart and thawing it out multiple times and figured it had been in there since 1993. I’m not certain what the final issue was. Even though the first replacement defrost timer checked “ok” on the multimeter it didn’t turn except for a few random times and barely a quarter turn if it was positioned at the start of the defrost cycle. Perhaps a lemon under load?